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Distributor install question

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    Distributor install question

    Before I removed the damaged distributor, I forgot to mark where the rotor was pointing to. When I install the new distributor, would it be alright to pop it in (being mindful that I'm not 180 degrees out of phase), then crank the engine by hand till the rotor points to cylinder #1, then attach the distributor cap and wires, start the car and adjust timing?
    Or do I have to remove the wire and spark plug from cylinder #1 and have someone crank the engine by hand while I feel/listen for compression at cylinder #1, stop when I do, reattach everything, then start the car and adj. timing?

    91 EX, body/chassis ~235,000; rebuilt f22a6 crate engine ~65,000 (3/2011)
    Neuspeed Super Cup Kit (7/2010)
    TAS rear drum-to-disc conversion (6/2010)
    Above photo taken - 4/2010

    #2
    I would do the latter procedure. But, I thought the dog clutch is one way on distributor. Which means, you really don't have to find TDC on #1 cylinder on Accord's engine.
    Last edited by oyajicool; 03-11-2012, 03:34 AM. Reason: Added in yellow to avoid some confusion....
    A&P-IA

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      #3
      just pop it in you cant even b 180 out cus of the shape of the dizzy key

      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=187851
      sold to: cb7rush\h22-accord\Luis\BurtonRiderT6
      bought from:jokerxfn-tommi-'93cb7ex

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
        I would do the latter procedure. But, I thought the dog clutch is one way on distributor.
        Yeah, I can't go wrong putting it in because of the way the distributor and the camshaft are designed. But about finding top dead center - it isn't sufficient to just install and crank by hand till the rotor points to cylinder #1? I suppose that just because the rotor is pointing at cylinder #1 doesn't mean its at TDC, huh? It could be at either the top or bottom, or mid stroke in cylinder one... Dammit.. I wish there was a way to make this a one man job.

        91 EX, body/chassis ~235,000; rebuilt f22a6 crate engine ~65,000 (3/2011)
        Neuspeed Super Cup Kit (7/2010)
        TAS rear drum-to-disc conversion (6/2010)
        Above photo taken - 4/2010

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jkrolikowski View Post
          Yeah, I can't go wrong putting it in because of the way the distributor and the camshaft are designed. But about finding top dead center - it isn't sufficient to just install and crank by hand till the rotor points to cylinder #1? I suppose that just because the rotor is pointing at cylinder #1 doesn't mean its at TDC, huh? It could be at either the top or bottom, or mid stroke in cylinder one... Dammit.. I wish there was a way to make this a one man job.
          If you set your crank to TDC, put in your dizzy, the rotor should be pointing at #1 spark plug wire. Then you know you are close. From there you can throw a timing light on it and set the timing correctly after the car warms up.

          I always do the work on my motors alone, never need a second set of hands.
          "There is nothing wrong with you that an expensive operation cannot prolong."

          Comment


            #6
            r u doing a timing belt as well? if the dizzy is the only thing being replaced there is no need to find tdc

            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=187851
            sold to: cb7rush\h22-accord\Luis\BurtonRiderT6
            bought from:jokerxfn-tommi-'93cb7ex

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jkrolikowski View Post
              Yeah, I can't go wrong putting it in because of the way the distributor and the camshaft are designed. But about finding top dead center - it isn't sufficient to just install and crank by hand till the rotor points to cylinder #1? I suppose that just because the rotor is pointing at cylinder #1 doesn't mean its at TDC, huh? It could be at either the top or bottom, or mid stroke in cylinder one... Dammit.. I wish there was a way to make this a one man job.
              If you need to find TDC on #1 cylinder for installation of distributor, following is a procedure applicable to almost all 4 cylinder engines, including Accords' engines.
              It's an easy one man job.

              Remove #2, 3 and 4 plugs.
              Turn crank by hand in direction of normal operation.
              Feel extra resistance and you are at bottom of compression stroke of #1.
              Remove #1 plug.
              Insert long screw driver through #1 plug hole.
              Continue to turn the crank slowly in the same direction while observing the screw driver does not bind in any way.
              When the screw driver stop going up, you have #1 piston at TDC .
              Observe dog clutch orientation, making sure the distributor would engage.
              If the rotor ends up facing in #1 position, you know you have your cam timed correctly.
              If it is somewhat off, you may want to check timing marks on cam gear.

              If I miss something from above procedure, sorry.
              Last edited by oyajicool; 03-11-2012, 03:35 AM. Reason: Again, added in yellow to avoid some confusion........
              A&P-IA

              Comment


                #8
                Just instal it, if the car doesn't start then you will have to take the dizzy back off and turn the part that goes into the cam 180 degrees. Once it's started make sure to set the timing.

                I'm sure there is "right" way but that happened to me once and the car just wouldn't start and I was in a hurry.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You are making it more complicated than it needs to be. The slot in the end of the cam is offest to one side, make sure the key in the end of the distributor shaft is offset in the same direction before installing it. If this is done correctly, the distributor shaft will be correctly oriented relative to the cam. The rotor goes on the shaft only one way because of the flat on one side of the shaft. Put the cap on and install wires. Position the dsitributor such that the mounting bolts are about in the middle of the slots, snug one down; this should be close enough that the car will start. Then set base timing and tighten the mounting bolts.
                  90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                  08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                    You are making it more complicated than it needs to be. The slot in the end of the cam is offest to one side, make sure the key in the end of the distributor shaft is offset in the same direction before installing it. If this is done correctly, the distributor shaft will be correctly oriented relative to the cam. The rotor goes on the shaft only one way because of the flat on one side of the shaft. Put the cap on and install wires. Position the dsitributor such that the mounting bolts are about in the middle of the slots, snug one down; this should be close enough that the car will start. Then set base timing and tighten the mounting bolts.
                    I get the whole 180 deg. of center bit. I'm not concerned about that and I didn't even know it was possible to install it incorrectly because of the way it's designed. My question strictly pertains to finding TDC before starting the car. Sorry if I didn't make this clear in the first place...

                    So I'm hearing different things. I'm only installing a new distributor - nothing else; no timing belt. The Hayes manual for 90-93 Accords says it's necessary to be at TDC before install, some in this thread are saying it isn't necessary. Some are agreeing with the manual that I need to remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and feel for compression when hand cranked, some are saying to just hand crank till the rotor is at the wire for cylinder one. I'm now more confused than when I asked my initial question...

                    91 EX, body/chassis ~235,000; rebuilt f22a6 crate engine ~65,000 (3/2011)
                    Neuspeed Super Cup Kit (7/2010)
                    TAS rear drum-to-disc conversion (6/2010)
                    Above photo taken - 4/2010

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jkrolikowski View Post
                      I get the whole 180 deg. of center bit. I'm not concerned about that and I didn't even know it was possible to install it incorrectly because of the way it's designed. My question strictly pertains to finding TDC before starting the car. Sorry if I didn't make this clear in the first place...

                      So I'm hearing different things. I'm only installing a new distributor - nothing else; no timing belt. The Hayes manual for 90-93 Accords says it's necessary to be at TDC before install, some in this thread are saying it isn't necessary. Some are agreeing with the manual that I need to remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and feel for compression when hand cranked, some are saying to just hand crank till the rotor is at the wire for cylinder one. I'm now more confused than when I asked my initial question...
                      STOP AND READ PLEASE!!! You dont need to do anything other than install the distributor, just take cap off to spin rotor so that it helps click or fall into its slot. IT ONLY FITS ONE WAY so dont force a bolt in to draw it closer to the head, you should be able to get it in without brute force. Then you should be good to start your car. NO NEED TO FIND TDC.
                      GOOD LUCK

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Install new distributor. Set timing with a timing light. Literally as simple as that. Takes like 10 minutes.
                        MRT
                        37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
                        30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
                        27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

                        Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

                        Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
                        Originally posted by Tippey764
                        I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
                        Originally posted by deevergote
                        sneaky motherfucker

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Ok. Thanks everyone. That's what I wanted to hear. No need to find TDC when installing only a new distributor. I don't know why the Hayes manual says to do so. Maybe just an extra precaution.. who knows. This is America. I suppose they're trying to avoid a potential law suit..

                          91 EX, body/chassis ~235,000; rebuilt f22a6 crate engine ~65,000 (3/2011)
                          Neuspeed Super Cup Kit (7/2010)
                          TAS rear drum-to-disc conversion (6/2010)
                          Above photo taken - 4/2010

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