Nut on the Tensioner

[s.green]

What does it do?

I have no problem tensioning the balance belt and I at one point had the timing belt tensioned but he kept trying to walk off the cam gear.

This is what I did yesterday:
1) Took the belt and everything back off.
2) check the tensioner again. it seems to be a tad bent on the left where the 10mm bolt from the timing cover would go.
3) i noticed that when I would put the spring through the eyelet, it made the tensioner lean forward a little.(I think this might be causing the issue of walking belt.)
4) I pushed up on the tensioner when i tightened the 10mm bolt. this help level out the tensioner and then i put the spring back in place. Got the belt on but there was slack everywhere.
5) added on the front tensioner and nut and then went to tension the timing belt but there was no play in its tensioner from where i had tightened that bolt down.

Questions: Should I be able to slide the tensioner up and down on the post and also where the 10mm is locked in? That's why those slots are there, right?
Could the tensioner be getting caught on the nut that is pretty much made on the post? I will try to have pictures but I just want my CB to ride again. I could have driven her but at every destination I would have to push the belt back on the gear. Thanks All!

[YK86]

Kind of hard to understand....but I'll just list off a few things.

1st, are you sure the timing belt tensioner is pivoting on the nub? There is a small hole on the tensioner arm on the firewall side. It needs to be hooked onto the nub sticking out of the block. If you remove the tensioner, you will see both the hole on the tensioner and the nub on the block. I have seen people install the tensioner without aligning it causing the tensioner to sit crooked thus making the timing belt walk off. If it's hooked properly, the tensioner should lay flush against the block and swing up and down on the big stud the nut goes on.

In the pic below, the red arrow is pointing to the nub I'm talking about. Ignore the red circle, it's from when I was using the pic for a different question.


The 10mm bolt is for holding the tensioner AFTER you tensioned the timing belt so you can tension the balanceshaft belt. It should NOT be tightened down when you are trying to tension the timing belt.

[cp[mike]]

yes YK86 is correct, and i second his suggestion to make sure it is properly pivoting on the little nub, in the corner by the red arrow in the picture. it is hard to see, even in person, and is easy to miss unless you specifically know of it. the 10mm bolt is only installed LOOSELY to help keep the tensioner held flush against the block while you put the belt on (otherwise the weight of the pulley would make it fall off the aforementioned little stud) but it should allow it to move freely. i have installed many timing belts without this bolt at all.

the tensioner spring is only for initial setting of the tension, it is not powerful enough to maintain that tension once the engine is running. this is what the main nut is for - once the belt is installed, turned 3 teeth, and the spring has pulled up as much as it wants to, then you tighten the 10mm bolt, and the 14mm main nut. do not "push up" on the tensioner before installing the spring! this will put unnecessary strain on the belt and cause it to wear out prematurely.

[s.green]

[QUOTE=YK86;2807734]Kind of hard to understand....but I'll just list off a few things.



In the pic below, the red arrow is pointing to the nub I'm talking about. Ignore the red circle, it's from when I was using the pic for a different question.



Thank you sooooo much for this picture and also the feedback! No one has mentioned this "nub" before. I noticed that it was getting caught on something but not sure what and it was probably this "nub".
Just to make sure I understand: make sure the tensioner is on the nub, install spring and loosely install 10mm bolt.
then install balance belt and tensioner and then tension all belts?

I hope this is it because it's either i'm going to drive it and just reset the belt everytime or this will fix it and i'll be good. I think my car has been down a month just because of this....lol

[batever]

[QUOTE=s.green;2807762]

Kind of hard to understand....but I'll just list off a few things.



In the pic below, the red arrow is pointing to the nub I'm talking about. Ignore the red circle, it's from when I was using the pic for a different question.



Thank you sooooo much for this picture and also the feedback! No one has mentioned this "nub" before. I noticed that it was getting caught on something but not sure what and it was probably this "nub".
Just to make sure I understand: make sure the tensioner is on the nub, install spring and loosely install 10mm bolt.
then install balance belt and tensioner and then tension all belts?

I hope this is it because it's either i'm going to drive it and just reset the belt everytime or this will fix it and i'll be good. I think my car has been down a month just because of this....lol

the 10mm bolt is there actually to hold the tensioner out of the way while you install the belt. Then you remove it/loosen it so the tensioner spring can apply appropriate pressure to the timing belt as you rotate it several teeth counterclockwise.

Make sure that you install the side of the timing belt that has a straight run between the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pullet first. That's the "working side" of the belt that pulls the camshaft counterclockwise. Installing that stretch first with the pulley in alignment will help ensure that they are in alignment when everything rotates c-cl. Do it from camshaft pulley to crankshaft pulley on the left side, then around the water pump and tensioner pulley on the right side (viewing from the driver's side fender)

I'm wondering actually if your crankshaft pulley is all the way on. A tensioner alone shouldn't be pulling the timing belt off of the camshaft pulley, in any case that belt is on there tight.

If you have a damaged or bent tensioner assembly, replace it with a new one.

[batever]

[QUOTE=s.green;2807762]

Kind of hard to understand....but I'll just list off a few things.



In the pic below, the red arrow is pointing to the nub I'm talking about. Ignore the red circle, it's from when I was using the pic for a different question.



Thank you sooooo much for this picture and also the feedback! No one has mentioned this "nub" before. I noticed that it was getting caught on something but not sure what and it was probably this "nub".
Just to make sure I understand: make sure the tensioner is on the nub, install spring and loosely install 10mm bolt.
then install balance belt and tensioner and then tension all belts?

I hope this is it because it's either i'm going to drive it and just reset the belt everytime or this will fix it and i'll be good. I think my car has been down a month just because of this....lol

the 10mm bolt is there actually to hold the tensioner out of the way while you install the belt. Then you remove it/loosen it so the tensioner spring can apply appropriate pressure to the timing belt as you rotate it several teeth counterclockwise.

Make sure that you install the side of the timing belt that has a straight run between the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pullet first. That's the "working side" of the belt that pulls the camshaft counterclockwise. Do it from camshaft pulley to crankshaft pulley on the left side, then around the water pump and tensioner pulley on the right side (viewing from the driver's side fender)

[s.green]

[QUOTE=batever;2807935]

the 10mm bolt is there actually to hold the tensioner out of the way while you install the belt. Then you remove it/loosen it so the tensioner spring can apply appropriate pressure to the timing belt as you rotate it several teeth counterclockwise.

Make sure that you install the side of the timing belt that has a straight run between the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pullet first. That's the "working side" of the belt that pulls the camshaft counterclockwise. Do it from camshaft pulley to crankshaft pulley on the left side, then around the water pump and tensioner pulley on the right side (viewing from the driver's side fender)

^Yep, did this on the first go round. I think because the tensioner wasn't properly on that "nub", it wasn't sitting level. you could watch the belt move a little on the tensioner and start rubbing up against the balance belt tensioner. I think this little nub thing has helped a bit, i'm jumping back out there this afternoon with my cousin who is a mechanic and hopefully he help without knocking me down a peg.. thanks all!

[batever]

u r welcome.

note that you should normally remove that 10mm bolt once the adjusting nut is tightened to allow for the possibility of adjusting the tension on the timing belt from outside the covers in the future. I personally left one in there I think but standard operating procedure is to remove it.

good luck

[s.green]

u r welcome.

note that you should normally remove that 10mm bolt once the adjusting nut is tightened to allow for the possibility of adjusting the tension on the timing belt from outside the covers in the future. I personally left one in there I think but standard operating procedure is to remove it.

good luck

My covers haven't been back on since we took them off. I just tried all of the above and the belt is still moving on the cam gear. I don't know what else to do, my cousin bailed on me and is supposed to be here saturday.

Also, apparently I'm missing the bolt on the balance belt sprocket to the left. any ideas on what size goes in there..it's not a 10mm.

[XcluziveAZN]

2. Adjust timing belt tension by rotating crankshaft counterclockwise until No. 1 piston is at TDC of compression stroke. Loosen, but do not remove, timing belt adjustment bolt. Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 3 teeth on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt. Tighten adjustment bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55332


i had the same issue too until i read that

[s.green]

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55332


i had the same issue too until i read that

I read that too. The belt is secure but it even looks crooked on the cam gear and I'm wondering if it's feeding itself weird or crooked.

How did you put tension on it? Do you stick a flat head up under the tensioner and push down on the screwdriver so it pushes the tensioner up? Maybe we're not doing that right...

[XcluziveAZN]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kvfko3kp-zg

i hope this help

[s.green]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kvfko3kp-zg

i hope this help

that's on a 94-97 model right? don't does have the automatic tensioners and not the manual ones?

[YK86]

Are you sure the tensioner arm isn't bent after installing it wrong? When you lay it on a flat surface with the bearing side facing up, the arm should lay completely flat. It's normal for it to want to slide out a tad to align itself but it should not be sticking out past the gear.

The link is correct. ALL 90-02 4cyl Accords are tensioned the same way. The Prelude H22 used an auto tensioner but not the Accords.

You do not need to push or pull or even touch the tensioner when tensioning the belt. Just put the belt on, make sure it's TDC at the cam and crank, and spin counter clockwise 3 teeth at the cam, then tighten the nut. Do it with the spark plugs out so it spins smoothly. With the nut tight and the belt tensioned, spin the crank until it's back to tdc and double check everything.

[s.green]

Are you sure the tensioner arm isn't bent after installing it wrong? When you lay it on a flat surface with the bearing side facing up, the arm should lay completely flat. It's normal for it to want to slide out a tad to align itself but it should not be sticking out past the gear.


You do not need to push or pull or even touch the tensioner when tensioning the belt. Just put the belt on, make sure it's TDC at the cam and crank, and spin counter clockwise 3 teeth at the cam, then tighten the nut. Do it with the spark plugs out so it spins smoothly. With the nut tight and the belt tensioned, spin the crank until it's back to tdc and double check everything.

the arm doesn't stick out past the gear but it does have a little bit of a bend to it where that 10mm would go but that's it. the arm itself is not bent. that belt is pretty tight on there and i don't understand why it's moving. we're going back out there tonight and probably tomorrow. the only thing i'm disagreeing with is my husband saying the nut is properly torqued even though he refuses to use the torque wrench. it's tightened down as far as i can turn it and i know how weak i can be. maybe the front tensioner arm isn't putting enough pressure out to keep that back one in place