Alright so here is my issue, When I start my car in the morning it revs to 3000 rpm. It than sits here for about 2-3 min. While im driving and let off of the accelerator, the fuel does not cut off, the car just propels itself. Then when it finally settles, the rpms will fluctuate between 400-800 as if the fuel ramps and than cuts off. can some one please help me out my timing is correct and my vacuum lines do not leak.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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Fluctuating idle
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Originally posted by pedalpusher90 View PostAlright so here is my issue, When I start my car in the morning it revs to 3000 rpm. It than sits here for about 2-3 min. While im driving and let off of the accelerator, the fuel does not cut off, the car just propels itself. Then when it finally settles, the rpms will fluctuate between 400-800 as if the fuel ramps and than cuts off. can some one please help me out my timing is correct and my vacuum lines do not leak.
Autos don't disengage like a manual, unless you put it in neutral.MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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Originally posted by pedalpusher90 View PostOh sorry its a manualMRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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If your car hunts for idle when its cold its your IACV
your "IACV" idle air control valve. if you replaced it or cleaned it and your car still cant find idle when its cold then most if the time the water hoses going to it are clogged.it happens all of the time.because the water hoses going to it clog up and the clog is normally in the valve to the right of your IACV. here's how you fix it: Step one take the cap off your rad Step two dis connect a hose from your IACV and blow it out with an air compressor hose and so that to both of the hoses untill you know water can flow good threw the whole system. Now you put everything back together and see how it works
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So Today I replaced my IACV with one from the jy from a cb7 with 133k i cleaned it and checked it. I also swaped guts for the thermo valve from the same car and set the valve properly, last i took the coil from the car and plugged it in my car. Im still having an issue. I think it is either my MAP sensor or my dizzy again. Number one cylinder has a slight misfire at idle to 1500rpm. I have also rebleed the coolant after swaping valves. Im still having a fluxuating idle untill it competely cuts out and dies.Originally posted by GummiegorillaDamn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!
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ladies and gentlemen, I have found my issue. I have a faulty cylinder number one wire. As I was replacing my distributor cap and rotor I had switched out my wire to the first cylinder, i noticed this did not do anything for my issue. i than yanked on the wire to unplug it from the dizzy, and i noticed i was getting full spark at that connection. I than plugged in the "new" wire back in. (new as in not what i have had previously) I unplugged it from the plug and ran my usual ground check to discover that this new plug had a crack in the neck of the wire where it slides in the head. So I installed my old wire, the one that was misfiring. I than, again, unplugged it from the cap and received full sparks. But when I unplugged just the plug side The spark was misfiring. Tomorrow I am going to go get a new wire and try it out.Originally posted by GummiegorillaDamn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!
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False hope, I replaced my wires and the same thing is happening. I have a misfire in my first cylinder i now think it is my distributer and ignitor. Does anyone agree with me? Also im still having the issue where my car will rev upto 3000rpm, when i first start driving it and stops after it is warmed up. When i drive it and it is warmed up, if I am down shifting, the car will hold the rev when the clutch is disengaged. and at a light it will just die down and spudder out on me. I think this may be a bad MAP. These are the last two things I can think of.Originally posted by GummiegorillaDamn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!
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