Help with valve adjustment?

[blackgoose]

Hey everyone, wanted to adjust the valves on my f22. Need to know what I will need as far as tools, feeler gauges? Torque sequence on valve cover studs? Stuff like that. Thanx.

[apalileo]

aside from your simple hand tools all you need are the feeler guages and a small torque wrench that can achieve 14 and 7.2lb-ft.

set number 1 piston to TDC. "UP" on the cam pulley should be at 12 o'clock from the outside of the car.
adjust valves on number 1. use three feelers for each. for intake, use a 0.009, 0.010 and 0.011. set with 0.010 and if 0.009 moves freely, 0.010 has some resistance and 0.011 won't even go in, you're good. tighten to 14lb-ft and verify clearance.
-intake 0.010
-exhaust 0.012
rotate crankshaft 180 degrees counterclockwise and go to cylinder 3. repeat. "UP" will be at 9 o'clock.
rotate crankshaft 180 degrees counterclockwise and go to cylinder 4. repeat. "UP" will be at 6 o'clock.
rotate crankshaft 180 degrees counterclockwise and go to cylinder 2. repeat. "UP" will be at 3 o'clock.

as for the crown nuts that hold down the valve cover, since there are only four i use the criss cross pattern like tightening down lugnuts. these only require 7.2lb-ft so be careful not to strip them!

[blackgoose]

Thanx alot, that was everything I needed to know! If your switching to synthetic oil from conventional, can there be a tiny amount of conventional left in there? Or does it all have to be out?

[blackgoose]

I think I also need to replace the tube seals as well. Is that a pretty self explanatory job?

[recliner54]

I've never done the tube seals but switching from conventional to synthetic oil not ALL the conventional oil has to be out. So its fine if theres a tiny bit in there.

[blackgoose]

Good to know. What kind of oil and filter do you run?

[apalileo]

Thanx alot, that was everything I needed to know! If your switching to synthetic oil from conventional, can there be a tiny amount of conventional left in there? Or does it all have to be out?

how many miles does your engine have? if you've got high mileage i would recommend against synthetic. over time, seals develop tiny pits and cracks that synthetics do a good job of exposing in the form of leaks. if you've had the engine rebuilt recently with new seals then it's all good, just drain out as much of the conventional oil as you can and fill it up with your preference of synthetic.

I think I also need to replace the tube seals as well. Is that a pretty self explanatory job?

actually the spark plug tube seals are another job in themselves; a bit higher on the difficulty scale. they require removing the entire drive train assembly from the head. the safest way to accomplish that is to slip the timing belt off of the cam gear otherwise you'll be facing a potential catapult effect if not removed with caution.

[90accords]

how many miles does your engine have? if you've got high mileage i would recommend against synthetic. over time, seals develop tiny pits and cracks that synthetics do a good job of exposing in the form of leaks. if you've had the engine rebuilt recently with new seals then it's all good, just drain out as much of the conventional oil as you can and fill it up with your preference of synthetic.


actually the spark plug tube seals are another job in themselves; a bit higher on the difficulty scale. they require removing the entire drive train assembly from the head. the safest way to accomplish that is to slip the timing belt off of the cam gear otherwise you'll be facing a potential catapult effect if not removed with caution.

Actually you can do it without the cam coming off........ leave the bottom 2 bolts in the distributor. Then you can remove the rocker arms without affecting the timing. If he's already going to adjust the valves this would be an opportune time to do the lower tube seals as well.

[sin2k5]

Actually you can do it without the cam coming off........ leave the bottom 2 bolts in the distributor. Then you can remove the rocker arms without affecting the timing. If he's already going to adjust the valves this would be an opportune time to do the lower tube seals as well.

What he said. There is no catapult effect -- I've done this so many times. Leave the cam on and leave the belt on, just undo the top distributor bolt, undo the rocker arm bolts in removal sequence, lift up, carefully scrape/pry old hard seals off, and press in new seals. Try not to shift around the rocker arm too much and try to keep it pressed together when holding it:

[distributor end]----> <----[cam end]

because it will fall apart into pieces if left <---- ---->

[blu35p4rr0w]

Here's videos of both procedures posted by everyone's favorite troll. GeoffMisiak

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=2680807

Just scroll up to the first post and you'll see the videos. I just replaced all my seals, there is no need to remove the timing belt or the distributor as stated before. I would do the seals first, then the valve adjustment after you've gotten everything back together and torqued to spec.

Here's torque specs.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...90&postcount=1

Both of these could've been found in the sticky titled "Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST"

[blackgoose]

Thanx again everyone. Very helpfull.

[GeoffM]

Here's videos of both procedures posted by everyone's favorite troll. GeoffMisiak

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=2680807

Just scroll up to the first post and you'll see the videos. I just replaced all my seals, there is no need to remove the timing belt or the distributor as stated before. I would do the seals first, then the valve adjustment after you've gotten everything back together and torqued to spec.

Here's torque specs.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...90&postcount=1

Both of these could've been found in the sticky titled "Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST"

Damn, you beat me to it.