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brake pads and tires.

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    brake pads and tires.

    so it's time for new tires and pads.
    i would like to know what are some good brands that will last for a good time, both for the tires and brakes. also, when do you know u need new rotors?
    <-- LMFAO

    #2
    Originally posted by rawb_dbap View Post
    so it's time for new tires and pads.
    i would like to know what are some good brands that will last for a good time, both for the tires and brakes. also, when do you know u need new rotors?
    Brembo rotors are really good quality. I had some as my previous set, except I upgraded to Acura Vigor Brake setup in front. But they still never warped. But they're kinda pricey now.

    Checker or Oreilley has some rotors I just put on my car, they're Made in Japan and came with a warranty. I think the brand is Brake Best

    As for pads, I drive a little more spirited than most so I use Hawk HPS pads. They give you way more stopping power and fade resistance than the original organic pads and aren't noisy at all either.

    member's ride thread
    93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
    99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
    91 Accord SE 176k
    97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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      #3
      Just don't cheap out and it shall be good.
      I always try to buy the little more expensives stuff.

      ...........AE86-GTS: SOLD.................................................. ........CB7-DX: SOLD

      Comment


        #4
        Tires: I've ran into a lot of people recommending nittos(though they don't last very long from what I've heard since they're a performance tuner oriented brand)... I also found a lot of good reviews for sumitomo(which is what I'm prolly getting mainly cuz price/reviews & my brother works for them assembling heavy equipment transmissions) Some say falken some say yokohama. A lot of it is personal preference. However I will tell you, from all I've read you should stay away from Fuzion's. Also check out reviews of the tires you like. If you want performance you want a high/ultra high performance all-season or summer tire. If you want it to last long you want touring.

        Brakes: I'd definitely agree with rawd_dbap. Don't go cheap. I wouldn't trust ebay no name brakes. Get something with a name to it. You're better off with the bottom of the line Advance Autoparts brakes than buying some cheap junk from ebay.

        When do you need new rotors?
        If your rotors are warped or if they have gashes in them, you need to either get new rotors or have them resurfaced.
        Usually if they're warped you will have a jumpy braking experience or your front end will shake when you brake. Sometimes you'll see uneven pad wear. These are all signs of bad rotors.

        Then again uneven pad wear or brakes smoking could be warped calipers which can overheat your rotors and warp them.
        Last edited by blu35p4rr0w; 02-02-2011, 06:21 AM.


        The Blue Bomber

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          #5
          oh I forgot tires...I work at Discount tire co. see a lot of issues/sidewall crackings on Goodyear Eagle GTs, DO NOT get these. I've also seen issues on some regular passenger car Goodyears as well, so I would stay away from what I've seen.

          I've also seen some issues on some Nittos, but mainly the Low Profile, 20-24" SUV tires, so I don't think that should be of any concern. Another guy in an FJ Cruiser came in and replaced a set of Nitto Dune Grapplers that had 60k on them and were still useable. so I think its only certain Nittos that do that, mainly heavy load.

          Yokohamas are good. I had a set of S-Drives that were really grippy, low noise on the highways, but they didn't last very long on my Accord in a 215/45/17 size. about 22k miles. But I've got a heavy foot and an H22 lol.

          On my ITR wheels, they're 15s, I have a Bridgestone Potenza on there and it seems to last forever, no matter how abusive I am to it. I've got 4 diff. tires on them lol, but they're just to roll on back/forth to school so i don't really drive too extreme on them. I also have a Falken ZE512 on there and I wouldn't get those, that one seems to be wearing much more than the Bridgestone.

          So for tires, its better to get a tire that has a 60k or 80k warranty than it is to get ones with a 30k warranty. You may have to pay nearly double for them, but they're engineered WAY better. They'll ride quieter, retain their roundness and give you a nice ride with excellent grip compared to a cheapo low range tire.

          So you get what you pay for.

          My parent's Toyota Sienna Van has some Pirelli P5s on it and they never give them any issues, they tow a trailer and drive cross country alot. They've got an 85k warranty too. When I take it for rotations and balancing, they almost never require any additional weight to be taken off or added.

          member's ride thread
          93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
          99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
          91 Accord SE 176k
          97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

          Comment


            #6
            My own preference:

            Brembo pads and rotors (if the rotors haven't been changed since you've owned the car, just change them now...) OEM Honda is never a bad choice either. I'd stay away from performance pads if you don't actually need them. They will only eat your rotors faster, and they generally wear faster themselves as well.

            Tires, I've always been happy with Dunlop. Even their cheapest models have lasted a long time, and never disappointed me with their gripping ability.
            I didn't care for the new Yokohama S.Drive (I've already gone through a set.) and I've never owned a set of Kumhos that I liked... I'm on some Kumhos now (on both the CB and the Fit), and they suck.






            Comment


              #7
              For brakes, I would recommend replacing your rotors if you are going to do the pads. Never go cheap as that only get pricer then if you did it right the first time. Since a CB7 is an older car often replacing the brake lines with stainless lines is a good idea. Brembo blanks are always a good choice as they rarely warp and are better then OEM. Hawk HPS pads are a good option as they are proven to be good street pads. This is the setup I have on my CB7 and haven't regretted it once. Whenever I build an older car, this is the setup I run though Powerslot rotors are always good if you can afford just a bit more for the rotors.

              For tires, Toyo T1Rs are great for spring, summer and fall type weathers. I have a set for my CB7 and love them. Amazing grip and good tire life. Yes, you do need winters for the winter months but if you get a set mid summer, they often are half price and they do help if it snows...

              Comment


                #8
                A quick tip:
                Our rotors don't come off like normal rotors. You must remove the steering knuckle to get to them.

                There are instructional videos in the stickies for the Beginner technical section.
                MRT
                37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
                30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
                27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

                Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

                Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
                Originally posted by Tippey764
                I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
                Originally posted by deevergote
                sneaky motherfucker

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                  #9
                  Yeah, they're a pain in the ass to do... which is why it's very smart to take care of them now, use quality rotors, and use pads that won't wear them out faster than necessary!

                  You can also convert to "rotor over hub" to make rotor changes MUCH easier. It's not very cheap to do it right, though.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    I figured that out when I was tryin to replace a lug stud. I was like... FTW?!?!?! rotor is behind the studs? LOL Definitely look into the rotor vids Misiak referenced.


                    The Blue Bomber

                    Comment


                      #11
                      woah, very useful information guys! thanks alot, many good options and tips, i will be changing my rotors, brakes, and tires sometime this month, thanks for thr help everyone!
                      <-- LMFAO

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