h22a not starting when engine is cold HELP

[JDM_H22_SLEEPER]

Hey guys.

I am in dire need of your knowledge. So the 93 Accord I have with a h22a motor, failed to start in the cold morning in Southern California. So I decided to change out the spark plugs, as I took them out the spark plugs had no gasoline scent to them. So I thought "dang, fuel problem" but I changed the plugs anyways and I got the car started after a few attempts, but the car ran pretty sputtery, but my dad took it out on the freeway to try to free some gunk up. I had occasionally put fuel injector cleaner in, with 89 pump. But when we got the car back home, we let it cool down, then tried to start it, but it wouldn't start up right away, it took a few tries. Then I decided "hmm maybe its the engine coolant temperature sensor" so I went to the local Pep Boys and bought myself a new temp sensor, (put the new one on, but overtightened it and it broke) so back to Pep Boys to exchange. I put it on, filled up the coolant again, put the positive battery terminal back on. And started it, it cranked for a second then it started. I was like "YES"

The car starts perfectly when the motor is hot. But when it is fully cold again, it fails. What could be the issue? Maybe its my Positive battery terminal? because the terminal is SLIGHTLY loose, also because it is old. Should I have to do anything with fuel pump? fuel filter? fuel main relay? crank sensor? As we are all low on budget, and it is always smarter to go from the item in which costs the less money. Any help appreciated. I am however sorry if this post has already been answered by another person's question, I could not find it in the Search tab. Thanks.

EDIT: I do not think its the fuel pump, because when I checked the fuel line that was going to the injectors, the line had pressure in it. So maybe not the fuel pump. Maybe the injectors? Or fuel filter dirty?

[GeoffM]

Your first paragraph made it seem like the fuel filter. It's somewhere in the range of $20.

[Nokomp]

i have a 91ex coupe w/ 96h22a. i strongly recommend replacing old worn oem batt cables w/new cables and brass connects(under $40). also if funds permit invest in a new batt w/ more "cold cranking amps"

[HATCHing]

I think you need new main relay... or at least fix it...by re-soldering.
I have the same exact problem and replace the main relay it starts everytime now.

[Nokomp]

hatching is correct, however i would start with batt cables only because they a re cheaper... unless of course u frequent ur local pic n pull salvage yard.

[JDM_H22_SLEEPER]

Your first paragraph made it seem like the fuel filter. It's somewhere in the range of $20.

Ima give the fuel filter a try too, since it has been quite a long time since I changed it.

i have a 91ex coupe w/ 96h22a. i strongly recommend replacing old worn oem batt cables w/new cables and brass connects(under $40). also if funds permit invest in a new batt w/ more "cold cranking amps"

I need battery adapters for sure, because the adapters are so old that they don't clamp onto the terminals tightly.

I think you need new main relay... or at least fix it...by re-soldering.
I have the same exact problem and replace the main relay it starts everytime now.

hmmm main relay. is there a place that sells them cheaper than $52 at Autozone?

hatching is correct, however i would start with batt cables only because they a re cheaper... unless of course u frequent ur local pic n pull salvage yard.

Okay. so that's a x2 on HATCHing's response. So I may have to look for a Main Relay and replace the old one. I'll try these out and let you guys know what happens. Hope it fixes it.

[BLUBB2]

Main relays are known to take a dump when the motor is hot. I would check fuel pressure.

[deevergote]

Before you go replacing any more parts, you need to determine if the problem is due to lack of fuel or spark.

Do free fixes first... check to make sure all grounds and battery connections are clean and tight.

Listen for your fuel pump to come on when you turn the key to II. Hear the pump? The main relay and fuel pump are fine. No fuel? It may be your injector resistor box.

No spark? Could be your coil, ignitor, distributor (are the cap and rotor new?), battery, or wiring. A weak battery can allow the car to crank, but won't provide enough power to start the car... do you have anything that may be a constant drain on the battery? A sound system or alarm that may have been installed incorrectly, perhaps? That could be a reason for the easy start when "hot"... because the battery was fully charged... and when "cold" the battery may be subject to whatever that constant drain is. I'm speculating, of course...

[deevergote]

Main relays are known to take a dump when the motor is hot. I would check fuel pressure.

Main relays take a dump when the WEATHER is hot, not the motor. Hot weather weakens the solder points.
Plus, it's when the motor is hot that he says there is no problem.

[sum123]

Last time my CB7 did the cold start problem thing it was the ignition module (ignitor) that was faulty. It could no longer do its job after sitting overnight in bitter cold temps. The car would finally start after repeated attempts. I think the ignitor was getting a little bit warmer with each attempt. I finally proved it using an old school trick. One evening while the car was still a little warm I wrapped a towel completely around the distributor housing (not the cap but the distributor itself) to keep that most bitter air from getting to it. Next morning, took the towel off and was able to start the Honda right up. Left the towel off the next night and had the starting problem the next morning. Just a few degrees makes all the difference with that module. I replaced the ignitor that following weekend and the cold start problem was gone for good. Definitely put the ignitor on your suspect list.

[JDM_H22_SLEEPER]

Before you go replacing any more parts, you need to determine if the problem is due to lack of fuel or spark.

Do free fixes first... check to make sure all grounds and battery connections are clean and tight.

Listen for your fuel pump to come on when you turn the key to II. Hear the pump? The main relay and fuel pump are fine. No fuel? It may be your injector resistor box.

No spark? Could be your coil, ignitor, distributor (are the cap and rotor new?), battery, or wiring. A weak battery can allow the car to crank, but won't provide enough power to start the car... do you have anything that may be a constant drain on the battery? A sound system or alarm that may have been installed incorrectly, perhaps? That could be a reason for the easy start when "hot"... because the battery was fully charged... and when "cold" the battery may be subject to whatever that constant drain is. I'm speculating, of course...

I can hear the pump. And the fuel line going to the injectors has pressure in it.

My dad is a retired mechanic but it has been YEARS since he last worked 24/7 on cars. So he's a bit rusty. He put a screw driver the spark plug wire #1, and we started the car to see a spark. He said the spark is weak. Usually the color of the spark should be blue, but he said it's reddish orange. So that would be a problem within the distributor correct? I recently changed this distributor back in August 2010. It has been less than 6 months. So I don't know why its taking a dump on me a 3rd time.

Last time my CB7 did the cold start problem thing it was the ignition module (ignitor) that was faulty. It could no longer do its job after sitting overnight in bitter cold temps. The car would finally start after repeated attempts. I think the ignitor was getting a little bit warmer with each attempt. I finally proved it using an old school trick. One evening while the car was still a little warm I wrapped a towel completely around the distributor housing (not the cap but the distributor itself) to keep that most bitter air from getting to it. Next morning, took the towel off and was able to start the Honda right up. Left the towel off the next night and had the starting problem the next morning. Just a few degrees makes all the difference with that module. I replaced the ignitor that following weekend and the cold start problem was gone for good. Definitely put the ignitor on your suspect list.

I still have my old igniter from a previous distributor. But quick question. Is the 93 Honda Accord Distributor's igniter, the same as the 93 Honda Prelude VTEC ignitor? or are they different? I still have a distributor from my 93 Accord lying around, which is an assembly. And it is new.

THINGS I'VE CHECKED THIS MORNING:

So I took out the distributor and replaced the Igniter. Put it back on and that wasn't it. There is spark in the wires. By doing the screwdriver arcing test. We checked the fuel line again to check if there was fuel in it, we unhook the clamp for a second and gas spewed out, and there was good pressure. So its not the main relay or the fuel pump. We later found an electric wiring going from the injectors to this round hand sized metal tank, that the electrical wiring is connected to on top of the intake manifold. That leads to the injectors, What is that part?



My dad has this device where you take out the socket to the fuel injectors and connect it to this bulb and when you turn the ignition to II the bulb will light up telling us that there is electricity going to the injectors to signal that the injectors should open.

[JDM_H22_SLEEPER]

ALSO: Whenever I used to turn the ignition key to II. you would hear a sound from the front of the vehicle that went like "BWOOP" and I guess that's the sound of the fuel pump, but the fuel pump is in the gas tank, but the sound always came from the front of the vehicle. But now that sound doesn't come on anymore. So maybe the electrical connector, IN THE PICTURE ABOVE, isn't opening the injectors? BUT we will start by seeing if there is electricity going there.

[BLUBB2]

The part that is circled is the Idle air control valve.

[JDM_H22_SLEEPER]

The part that is circled is the Idle air control valve.

hmmm...that doesn't sound like it could be that. let me go outside and take a picture of the part I am looking for. It might be different. Because there is an electrical plug with wires connected to it, from the fuel rail/valve cover area. I'll report back with a picture, maybe it is the IACV.

[deevergote]

If your spark is weak, that COULD be the distributor, coil, or ignitor. It could also be a weak battery, bad grounds, or dirty/loose battery cables. Check those things FIRST.