Crankshaft sproket pin (t-belt job)

[js593]

How the hell did you guys get yours off? I did my timing belt a while back, and now the pin wont come out. Im in the middle of replacing the crank seal (leaking lots of oil)

Thanks.

[js593]

Up... Need some feedback guys... Im in DIRE need of help. :'(

[Boost_Lee]

the small pin on the crank itself? Like the one similar to the camshaft pin?

Mine never gave me any troubles. In fact, I thought it was shaped with a curved side so it would not freeze in there. I never had an issue with removing it, but I would use a small screw driver and some needlenose pliers if it is hard. Lube never hurts either

[benji]

Yeah, mine was so easy to come out that it fell off while I was driving and completely fucked my valves

Try shooting it with WD40 or something and give it a gentle tap with a hammer just to try to shake it loose.

[js593]

Well i got it out with a slide hammer, and a set of vice grips. Ordered a new one from honda too. It was put in the wrong way. I got everything back together with a modified diff shaft (1/4 inch rod's made for rear diff's) and put it all back on. The car runs decent, however i think the ballance shaft is off. Im having a hard time getting the car not to shake (i know a little is normal, but its a bit more then normal, i think it might be off)

Anyone have a picture of how the ballance shaft should look when you put it together?
And im speaking of the rear one.

As well, after i put everything on, the ballance shaft belt didnt seem too tight, so i eased down on the tentioner a bit (not very much) and tighened it down. It seems ok, but the belts have a whine to them.
How much slack should there be on the belts? I dont recall them having as much as they did with the auto-tentioner.

Thanks.

[js593]

TTT for the last question.
EDIT: Everything is fixed. Balancer was off 3 notches in the gear, and needed a new crank key. Man was that a disaster oil seal repair.

[cp[mike]]

As well, after i put everything on, the ballance shaft belt didnt seem too tight, so i eased down on the tentioner a bit (not very much) and tighened it down. It seems ok, but the belts have a whine to them.
How much slack should there be on the belts? I dont recall them having as much as they did with the auto-tentioner.

Thanks.

glad to hear you straightened out the rear shaft. there is a plug on the back of the block that you remove so you can "lock" the rear shaft into place so there is no confusion about its alignment. im guessing you found this.

are you following the manual for this belt installation? it explains the rear shaft, as well as the proper procedure for removing excessive slack from the belt - install everything, tighten it down, turn it 3+ teeth, and loosen, and retighten. this makes it so the slack is all on the right side where the water pump and tensioner are.

as for the balance shaft belt, it should actually be a little loose. its always made me a little uncomfortable so i give the tensioner a little bit of a nudge before a tighten it down, but it DEFINITELY should not be "tight" like the timing belt. also take note of the balance shaft tension spring - if you pushed the tensioner beyond its normal self-tightness, itll cause slack in the spring, and can allow it to pop off and get caught in the belt. i usually crimp down the ends of the little spring, so its held tightly onto the stud that its stretched onto.

excessive tension could cause the humming, or the tensioner pullies you are using are going bad.

[js593]

glad to hear you straightened out the rear shaft. there is a plug on the back of the block that you remove so you can "lock" the rear shaft into place so there is no confusion about its alignment. im guessing you found this.

are you following the manual for this belt installation? it explains the rear shaft, as well as the proper procedure for removing excessive slack from the belt - install everything, tighten it down, turn it 3+ teeth, and loosen, and retighten. this makes it so the slack is all on the right side where the water pump and tensioner are.

as for the balance shaft belt, it should actually be a little loose. its always made me a little uncomfortable so i give the tensioner a little bit of a nudge before a tighten it down, but it DEFINITELY should not be "tight" like the timing belt. also take note of the balance shaft tension spring - if you pushed the tensioner beyond its normal self-tightness, itll cause slack in the spring, and can allow it to pop off and get caught in the belt. i usually crimp down the ends of the little spring, so its held tightly onto the stud that its stretched onto.

excessive tension could cause the humming, or the tensioner pullies you are using are going bad.

Dude, you have no idea how much you just helped me.
In the past 4 days, i have been looking left right and center for information regarding this crap ive been through. Im still not comfortable with the slack in the balancer belt, so this weekend while im at work, im going to take it apart again, and re-do it (again)

What i have massive confusion on, is when you ajust the rear shaft, when you put in the 6X100MM screw, It IS left in there when you put the belt on, correct? People have told me left right and center, every possible way of doing it, and noone can give me a straight answer.

I put the marks to lign up approx where they should be, but the car still has a small vibration when you accelerate. im guessing its still a tooth off, And its very annoying to think that something could go wrong at any minute because the engine is "off balance"

So yeah, aligning the rear shaft is being nothing but a pain in the ass. If the screw has to be left in there to do it, then ive been doing it wrong.

Here is the way ive been doing it.

1: set up timing belt
2: line up the front ballancer marks (easy peasy)
3: (where i probably went wrong) Aligne the NOTCH in the rear face of the gear on the REAR balancer, to the bolt hole thats meant for the cover plate on the balancer (which was placed at NOON-ish)

Im not able to take the plate off, Whoever had it off last, has stripped the heads on the bolts holding the plate in, Which is why i have been eyeing it this entire time.

If you can help me in any way mike, it would be GREATLY appreciated, ive had the cover off about 5 times in the past 3 days, its starting to get on my nerves.

Thanks.

[GearBangnAccord]

download an online manual @ honda-tech that wut i used 4 reference along w/ haynes

Here ima spoon feed ya
http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/auto...ual-pdf-2.html

[js593]

download an online manual @ honda-tech that wut i used 4 reference along w/ haynes

Im starting to question my haynes book. It seems to leave out some really important information.

[cp[mike]]

Here is the way ive been doing it.

1: set up timing belt
2: line up the front ballancer marks (easy peasy)
3: (where i probably went wrong) Aligne the NOTCH in the rear face of the gear on the REAR balancer, to the bolt hole thats meant for the cover plate on the balancer (which was placed at NOON-ish)

Im not able to take the plate off, Whoever had it off last, has stripped the heads on the bolts holding the plate in, Which is why i have been eyeing it this entire time.

If you can help me in any way mike, it would be GREATLY appreciated, ive had the cover off about 5 times in the past 3 days, its starting to get on my nerves.

Thanks.

thats 'technically' the way to do it, but thats a load of crapola at step 3. theres secondary gearing behind the rear sprocket, if you rotate it even once the marks are all fubared. use a bolt (or a phillips head screwdriver) and slide it through the hole under the 12mm bolt at the back of the block (the one with the crush washer) when the rear shaft is lined up the tool will slide through and hold it straight in place while you install the belts, regardless how the rear sprocket appears to line up (or not) with its marks. of course take the tool back out before you turn the motor around at all :P

good luck

[js593]

thats 'technically' the way to do it, but thats a load of crapola at step 3. theres secondary gearing behind the rear sprocket, if you rotate it even once the marks are all fubared. use a bolt (or a phillips head screwdriver) and slide it through the hole under the 12mm bolt at the back of the block (the one with the crush washer) when the rear shaft is lined up the tool will slide through and hold it straight in place while you install the belts, regardless how the rear sprocket appears to line up (or not) with its marks. of course take the tool back out before you turn the motor around at all :P

good luck

I wish i could hug you....
Gonna do it tomorrow if i got the time.
Thanks again brotha

[js593]

Thanks again mike. Went by your advice, and made myself a tool for aligning the rear shaft. No more vibration off the belts, and now they have proper tention!

[cp[mike]]

Thanks again mike. Went by your advice, and made myself a tool for aligning the rear shaft. No more vibration off the belts, and now they have proper tention!

glad to hear!

[bcjammerx]

don't follow the haynes manual instructions...the springs that are supposed to tighten your balance shaft pulley and the t-belt "tensioner" but they will most likely not be tight enough.

For the balance shaft belt just like mike said.

for the t-belt, tighten it so that if you try to twist it, you can twist it only under 90 degrees...in other words, twist the belt, if you twist it more than 90 degrees, tighten a hair more, if you can just barely twist to under 90 your good, if you can't get close to 90 degrees twist you are too tight.

While the t-belt doesn't need to be super tight to do it's job, as the "teeth" on it do that, it does need to be snug

But more often than not I see guys post here who had the same problem I did, following the manual results in a LOOSE AS HELL t-belt, and it's that springs fault. I think they changed the part number for that spring but...why waste your time and money by going to the dealer when you can just do it by hand?