idle adjust

[Brad92accord]

My idle needs adjusting ..its at 500rpm and it should be at about 700rpm...so where is the screw that adjusts the idle?

Thanks

brad

[cvandulken]

My idle needs adjusting ..its at 500rpm and it should be at about 700rpm...so where is the screw that adjusts the idle?

Thanks

brad

i dont think you can adjust the idle on these cars via screw.... correct me if i'm wrong.. being efi

sounds like a tune up is needed... or timing is set incorrect. iac could need cleaning to.

[cp[mike]]

on the very top center of hte throttle body, facing toward the passenger side.

sometimes the screw slot is covered by a little bit of grey glue.

[Djmoua]

My idle needs adjusting ..its at 500rpm and it should be at about 700rpm...so where is the screw that adjusts the idle?

Thanks

brad

You know where your throttle cable is right?

[zack_odom]

twist the screw that mike mentioned....Then see if that makes it better.

[HondaTuner808]

When you adjust the screw, make sure the car is warmed up, and you unplug the IAC before doing so.
You must do this to keep the IAC from overworking itself after you've set the idle, since, with the IAC enabled, it will also be modifying the idle as you are trying to change it with the screw.

In other words, to set your idle correctly, you must set it one component at a time. The screw is the only adjustable part of the idle system, so you must set this independently of the other devices.

[alifeva]

^ so do you warm the car, remove the IAC while its running then adjust the idle screw to hear if it changes? or warm it up, then shut off, IAC removed, adjust screw then reconnect everything and check to see idle next startup? Also can you describe this IAC component for me, Thanks

[HondaTuner808]

The IACV is located on the intake manifold. It is the only device on the intake manifold that has both an electrical plug and radiator coolant lines (2 of them) running to it.

You'll start the car, allow it to come to running temperature, disconnect the IACV plug (Intake Air Control Valve, sometimes also called EACV), then adjust your idle with the car running the entire time. Once its idling around 750RPM?, then shut the car off. Reconnect the IACV plug, then disconnect the battery for 5, maybe 10 minutes so you can clear the check engine light that occurs from disconnecting the IACV. After that, reconnect the battery and everything should be good to go.

The IACV is the Intake Air Control Valve, aka the EACV or Electronic Air Control Valve. Basically, its a valve that opens and closes, allowing just enough air in to raise the idle back to normal when a load is applied to the engine. This load, be it the AC compressor, alternator or the power steering pump, causes the idle to drop. This drop in RPM is detected by the ECU, which compensates by opening the IACV to allow more air to bypass the throttle-body, thereby raising the idle.

Also, just so you know, the reason the IACV has coolant lines running to it is to prevent the valve mechanism and the mesh filter that covers it from icing up in colder climates.

[alifeva]

^ Oh man thats great info. thanks for the detailed description, now I have a good picture in my head of what to do and what to look for. You mentioned correlation between the power steering and idle. My rack is known to have a slow leak but nothing to serious at the moment my mechanic said. Possibly this would explain the 500 idle I'm getting. At first I was told the plastic distributor was to blame for my low idle but Honda was supposed to install a fresh new one with the 120,000 mile tune up priced around 500$. Hopefully they did not skimp me on a new distributor because the idle remained low. Well see how this screw adjustment goes. Appreciate it.

[alifeva]

Oh so the IACV is the simple plug connecting in to the side of my AEM cold air intake? I never tried removing it while the car was running, does it really cause a check engine light? interesting

i tell ya, all new cars should be made with air intakes. it really simplifies how an engine works. those junk heavy plastic boxes with filters really clutter and confuse an average driver.

[xheartlesskingx]

anyone got pics?? of the screw and IACV??

[js593]

Oh so the IACV is the simple plug connecting in to the side of my AEM cold air intake? I never tried removing it while the car was running, does it really cause a check engine light? interesting

i tell ya, all new cars should be made with air intakes. it really simplifies how an engine works. those junk heavy plastic boxes with filters really clutter and confuse an average driver.

Those big ass plastic boxes prevent people from opening it up full throttle all the time. If you got an intake, i garuntee you abuse the car once and a while. It also restricts airflow to maximize the gas consumption.

as for the plug for the IACV, no, its not on your AEM intake, its on the INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Red arrow points it out.

[Leung]

see that's the odd thing, when i tried to adjust my idle using the screw. the Haynes manual said to unplug that connector with the engine running. When i go to do that, my engine stalls out.

[AD5OS]

warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. then turn it off. go unplug the iavc. Then start the car.. if the car doesn't start up give it a lil throttle till you get it to idle. Then adjust the speed to around 550 I believe but I may be wrong. Then turn the car off plug it back in and see if it idles around 650-750 or so. You may have better luck with a secondary tachometer connected to the distributer so you can watch the tach while you mess with the screw.

Let us know if it worked!

[Leung]

yeah my idle was pretty low where it was stumbling but then it'd catch itself.

We finally figured it out that we forgot to tighten the battery cables and when i'd go to rev the engine, the cables would rock loose. HEE HAW.