or when you cant get a bolt out and you have money to buy the part
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What up Michigan!!!
got updated photos of car with upgraded wheels...
whatcha think?
NoW...
BeForE...
DailyRuNr
RTeK72
www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=171103
B18CA1 and B18B http://pbckt.com/sA.d5W Hoping to get a 90-93 Integra sedan to put one of these in some day...
http://tipthepizzaguy.com/
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Originally posted by megarock15 View Postor when you cant get a bolt out and you have money to buy the partMRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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Originally posted by Status Quo View PostI expressed earlier how my car was sucking up oil, but my finances never allowed a fix. So I had been checking it regularly and putting in the needed oil to make up for what was burnt.
It seems as though when I go to start the car in the morning smoke comes from the exhaust and its been increasing. It's hard to tell in the winter. I realize that cold + heat from exhaust = what seems like smoke, but like i said it seems abnormal.
Its Grey to start and when it accelerates. (I don't see a real change in the color after engine warms up.)
WEIRD~! I got home today... and as I put it in Park the engine revved up and down and up and down and wouldn't stop?!? 0.o
Older F22ax engines that consume engine oil usually are attributed to worn piston rings or worn valve guide seals. If bluish smoke out exhaust on engine cold start, then goes away after engine warm it is valve guide seals. If bluish smoke out exhaust after engine warm up and constantly thereafter while driving it is piston rings. Dark/black smoke when accelerating usually due to rich air/fuel mixture.
You have not accurately described your exhaust smoke issue for me to make a guess. Grey smoke is normal from a cold or warm engine in the cold, as hot exhaust gases meet the cold ambient temperatures.
Your parked idle issue is not normal. There may be a vacuum leak in your idle system. I can not help with this personally until our spring meet. You can attempt to diagnose reading and implementing my DIY stickies on base idle & ignition timing in Technical Section.
To check if your PCV is working properly, start engine and while running pull the PCV out of valve cover (leaving hose attached to PCV/intake manifold). Put thumb over PCV opening and if you feel vacuum/sucking on your finger, it is fine. If not, replace with new. They are a few bucks.Last edited by HondaFan81; 01-11-2011, 04:43 PM.
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostMark,
Older F22ax engines that consume engine oil usually are attributed to worn piston rings or worn valve guide seals. If bluish smoke out exhaust on engine cold start, then goes away after engine warm it is valve guide seals. If bluish smoke out exhaust after engine warm up and constantly thereafter while driving it is piston rings. Dark/black smoke when accelerating usually due to rich air/fuel mixture.
You have not accurately described your exhaust smoke issue for me to make a guess. Grey smoke is normal from a cold or warm engine in the cold, as hot exhaust gases meet the cold ambient temperatures.
Your parked idle issue is not normal. There may be a vacuum leak in your idle system. I can not help with this personally until our spring meet. You can attempt to diagnose reading and implementing my DIY stickies on base idle & ignition timing in Technical Section.
To check if your PCV is working properly, start engine and while running pull the PCV out of valve cover (leaving hose attached to PCV/intake manifold). Put thumb over PCV opening and if you feel vacuum/sucking on your finger, it is fine. If not, replace with new. They are a few bucks.
I forgot to update. I replaced the PCV valve and it may have resolved a lot of my issues. There was oil build up in the valve and I plan on flushing it asap to clean anymore gunk out (next oil change). After the new PCV valve:
Idle does not jump in park.
Car is more responsive to acceleration.
Smoke has decreased to what seems normal for winter conditions.
*will update about oil intake*
*sigh* I just need a new engine and tranny... ... lolLast edited by Status Quo; 01-11-2011, 06:52 PM.
Bought From:
CB7 Sleeper
illestatus
HondaFan81
My Ride:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...92#post2587592
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Originally posted by Status Quo View Post*sigh* I just need a new engine and tranny... ... lol
You don't need a new engine and tranny, just maintenance. Any machine will require that and how it operates is a reflection of its owner.
Our cars are reliable, problem is they are old and by time people take ownership that have to get up to date on the maintenance required. Most are not willing or broke, which is why they buy these cars in the first place. So that amazes me even more that these cars keep going, even with dire maintenance needed. Yet people wonder why timing belts break on them and blame the car!
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostGood news to hear on the PCV. So you had built up crankcase pressure, that happens when the mentioned part plugs up.
You don't need a new engine and tranny, just maintenance. Any machine will require that and how it operates is a reflection of its owner.
Our cars are reliable, problem is they are old and by time people take ownership that have to get up to date on the maintenance required. Most are not willing or broke, which is why they buy these cars in the first place. So that amazes me even more that these cars keep going, even with dire maintenance needed. Yet people wonder why timing belts break on them and blame the car!MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View Post
You don't need a new engine and tranny, just maintenance. Any machine will require that and how it operates is a reflection of its owner.
Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostOur cars are reliable, problem is they are old and by time people take ownership that have to get up to date on the maintenance required. Most are not willing or broke, which is why they buy these cars in the first place. So that amazes me even more that these cars keep going, even with dire maintenance needed. Yet people wonder why timing belts break on them and blame the car!
Originally posted by GeoffMisiak View PostDamn timing belts! All not being immortal and what not.
Bought From:
CB7 Sleeper
illestatus
HondaFan81
My Ride:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...92#post2587592
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Originally posted by rtek72 View PostWhat up Michigan!!!
got updated photos of car with upgraded wheels...
whatcha think?
NoW...
BeForE...
Bought From:
CB7 Sleeper
illestatus
HondaFan81
My Ride:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...92#post2587592
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Originally posted by nate'sCB7 View PostI hope you know mark,
that those are just hub caps in his before picture
Bought From:
CB7 Sleeper
illestatus
HondaFan81
My Ride:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...92#post2587592
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I just realized something... that unless something goes horribly wrong... I'll have fogs by the time there's a meet!MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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