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    Difficult shifter

    My shifter is quite hard to move. I'm thinking possibly cables, but could it be something else? My DX's shifter was much easier to move, and upon sitting in pwrusr's car, I realized how tough mine really was! (his is SO smooth!)

    So, can anyone give me an idea of what it could be? Am I right in thinking cables, or could it be something internal?

    The problem started before I installed my Fushigi short shifter, and it's only gotten more noticable since. I don't THINK the shifter is the cause, but who knows! I hope it's not. I like it!







    #2
    Hard in what way? Notchy? Or the lever is just difficult to move.

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      #3
      is it easy to move when in neutral? (like from side to side without clutch engaged)
      92 CB7 *Sold $3300 102K Miles 4 door LX

      94 Del Sol *Baught $3300 80K Miles on chasis
      and 60K miles on b18b1 motor swap

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        #4
        clutch fluid levels fine?
        Last edited by HondaGuy1212; 02-04-2008, 02:18 PM.

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          #5
          I think you can use white lithium grease on the cables (there's the thin cables that hook up to the shifter that go into the larger cover...bah its hard to describe, but at one point there's like a sheath that covers the cables...I would apply some grease there.

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            #6
            Disconnect the cables at the trans to isolate the problem.
            2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
            Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
            1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

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              #7
              Originally posted by SteveB
              Disconnect the cables at the trans to isolate the problem.
              Thanks Steve. That's good advice.

              I didn't realize I had replies here! I forgot about this thread until I drove today...

              Anyway, I used grease on the cables... no change.
              Fluid is topped off.
              It's easy to move side to side, but going into gear it's tough. There's resistance on every shift. I suppose "notchy" would be a good way to describe it. I've tested shifters in other people's cars, and I've noticed some are worse than mine, and others are like butter...

              My clutch is total trash, and I've been told (when cp[mike] drove my car) that my clutch master cylinder isn't great... Could those be issues?


              I think this car needs a whole transmission overhaul... I wish I had the money!






              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by deevergote
                It's easy to move side to side, but going into gear it's tough. There's resistance on every shift. I suppose "notchy" would be a good way to describe it. I've tested shifters in other people's cars, and I've noticed some are worse than mine, and others are like butter...

                My clutch is total trash, and I've been told (when cp[mike] drove my car) that my clutch master cylinder isn't great... Could those be issues?
                How does it flick gear-to-gear with the engine off?
                2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
                Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
                1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by SteveB
                  How does it flick gear-to-gear with the engine off?
                  It's a little notchy... not as smooth as I would like, but a bit easier than it is while driving.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by deevergote
                    It's a little notchy... not as smooth as I would like, but a bit easier than it is while driving.

                    Uh...ok. A little notchy, but a bit easier than when driving.

                    Your first post says "quite hard to move".

                    Anyhoo, if it shifts OK when engine off, it isn't your cables.
                    Yes, a dragging clutch will symptomise* itself with difficult shifting, and VERY difficult to get into first. BTDT.

                    *Kewl, I made up a word!
                    2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
                    Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
                    1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I suppose I contradicted myself there, eh? The "very difficult" is most classifiable as such when trying to shift fast... there are times when it just won't go in until I release the clutch in neutral and try again...

                      Well, I have a new clutch waiting to go in (just need to find a place to do it... my grass driveway won't do!) I suppose that will eliminate the clutch from my list of possibilities. Of course, while doing that, I'll most likely have to disconnect the cables. Great time to inspect them as well! I'm mostly afraid of internal damage (even though my synchros are already pretty bad in places... so there is already enough internal damage to warrant a rebuild or replacement...)






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                        #12
                        deev it was a very long time ago so i dont remember exactly but if IIRC your master cyl was slightly leaky, it would slowly lose pressure... if its getting worse it could be letting the clutch slightly engage, which will make it hard to put into gear...


                        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                        Current cars:
                        - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                        - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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                          #13
                          you said your fluid is topped off, but what kind of fluiid do you use?

                          and it does sound kind of like a clutch master cylinder. later.
                          Avoiding dirt at all costs

                          Comment


                            #14
                            IMO it is the tranny. The clutch or the MC could be contributing factors, but it would usually grind going into gear if is isn't disengaging correctly. That is what both of those would cause.

                            The other thing is that when you put it in neutral let the clutch out and try it again, you are basically double clutching the car, and helping syncronize the shaft speeds which is what syncros are there for. It would seem as if they are having a hard time keeping up.

                            I don't know what fluid you put in there, and I know a lot of people swear by syncromesh, but also IMO Genuine Honda is the only way to go.

                            If you do end up rebuilding your tranny, I know that Gearspeed does a VERY good job. I just installed a stage 1 tranny from them in a friend's Civic and it was top notch. Carbon syncros and everything. About 15,000 on it now, and all he does is rave about it. If you decide you are brave enough to do it yourself, they sell all the parts for a very reasonable price, especially considering the quality. They also recommend Genuine Honda MTF.

                            www.gear-speed.com
                            Last edited by owequitit; 01-12-2006, 07:07 PM.
                            The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

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                              #15
                              I have to get under and check the condition of the MC. I don't recall seeing any leakage, and the fluid level hasn't changed... ever. I don't know much about the design of the component, howver. Could there be an internal leakage? Any sort of piston/plunger mechnaism that could be allowing fluid by when it should be holding stiff? (OT: my brake master cylinder slowly loses pressure in hot weather... I assume it's a similar issue there)

                              I honestly don't know what type of clutch fluid is in there. It's been the same since my swap was done. The transmission oil was last changed at a Chrysler dealership (I asked them to do it as an afterthought when I took it in for a windshield replacement). I KNOW that whatever they used isn't great, because my 2nd gear grinds when it's cold. It didn't do that before the fluid change.

                              When I change my clutch, I'll probably try Synchromesh. Or MTF. Not sure






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