Swap FAQ: (Read Prior to Posting!)
Swap Faq's for the CB7
General Swap Info:
Just about all of the F/H motors can be swapped because of their layout and bolt-up similarities, so in most cases the stock CB mounts and wiring harness are used. Below are the differences that you will need to look out for, and which combination of parts to use. If swapping a motor is new to you, check out the F22 Removal Guide.
Most of this info is for swapping the H22A/1/4 however it can be applied for other engines you may wish to swap such as the F22B1/2 or F23Ax. For possible engine swaps list refer to this thread http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=&threadid=523.
Buy a manual for the year vehicle your engine came from, for the vehicle it’s going into, and for the year of the ECU you plan to use.
Example: 97H22 with P13 OBD-1 ECU (1994 Vtec Prelude) into a 93 Accord. Get a 97 Prelude helms, a 94 Prelude helms, and a 93 Accord helms manual. Go to www.helminc.com to get them.
Use the accord wiring harness and lengthen/modify the harness to fit the H22. If you undo the tape and loom on your F22 harness you will free up allot of free wire. For instance you will not have to lengthen the O2 wiring, If you remove the tape and loom there is enough wire to move the O2 wiring to it’s new location. Just re-tape and loom when you are done. If possible try to solder and heat shrink all the engine harnesses connections to avoid problems.
The oil pressure sensor has a different plug on the h22, swap the accord sensor onto the h22 or simply change the plug. The EGR also has a different plug. Simply reuse your F22 EGR valve or change the plug. The F22 has an extra coolant temp sensor on the radiator return neck that H22 does not, simply swap necks between engines.
Pin locations for OBD-1 ECU’s:
- Vtec solenoid: Pin A4
- Vtec pressure switch: Pin D6
- Knock sensor: Pin D3
- Secondary Intake Solenoid: Pin A17 (Connect Black/Yellow wire on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A17)
- FPR Solenoid: Pin A10 (Connect Black/Yellow on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A10. This Solenoid is not found on all H22’s but it is on some. It will not hurt anything if you don’t use it, but should you want to this is the correct way to connect it. It is located near the fuel rail next to the IAC on the H22)
* Using a 94/95 Accord ECU (P0A/P0B)? Swap pin A6 with A11 on the ECU harness. This is necessary since the 5th gen was wired opposite of the 4th gen for these two pins.
Where to get pins:
Go to a junkyard, find any OBD-1 Honda, and cut the ECU harness out. There you have a ready supply of ECU pins. Just remove the style pin you need and install it in the blank spot on your current plug. Of course cut enough so you can splice to
.
Plug identification and numbering:
The largest plug is “A”, the middle and smallest is “B”, the last and second largest plug is “D”. Plug “C” only exists on 4WS vehicles. The pins are numbers in the “Zig-Zag” fashion and from the wire side. Meaning looking at the plug from the wire side pin 1 will be on the left, pin 2 below it, pin 3 to the right of pin 1 on the top row, so on and so fourth. Top row is odd and the bottom row is even.
Axles:
- For simplicity use the Accord Axles and half shaft. If you wish you can use the Prelude half shaft and have the Prelude driver’s side inner joint attached to the Accord Axle. Do not use the Prelude axles as they are to long.
Air Conditioning (H22A):
To keep ac take the bracket off the F22 and put it on the H22 and use the Accord compressor.
Alternator:
Prelude and Accord alternators are the same, they just have a different sized pulley. Either one will bolt up to either bracket, but if you replace your alternator for the one with the smaller pulley, youll either need a shorter belt or youll need to use washers on the 10mm tensioner bolt to get it to tighten all the way. Prelude alternators have a 6 ribbed pulley while accord alternators have a 5 ribbed pulley.
Power Steering (H22A):
Use the 4th gen Bracket and pump with a custom sized belt. Only two bolt holes will line up and you will have to shim the lower hole. Or you can use the H22A Bracket, Pump, and you will need the Prelude high pressure line.
Mounts:
For the H22A simply reuse the all the Accord mounts. The actual size and shape of the f22a and the h22a are exactly the same, so bolting all of the original mounts and brackets onto the new motor should take care of any mounting issues. With everything swapped over, the motor will bolt directly back in.
For other engines such as the F22B1 you will need to use the F22Ax driver’s side inner mount and bracket, the one that passes through the timing covers and bolts into the side of the block. Remove it from the F22Ax and reuse it on the F22B1. All the bolts will line up except for one.
Transmission Mounts:
For the 5-Speed you will to use a 10x1.25mm tap to tap the two unused holes in the Prelude transmissions case. Before you can do this the holes need to be enlarged with an 11/32" drill bit... get a drill bit that is made to drill through metal! Remove the two studs from their old location, and install them in the location you just drilled and tapped. Then you can mount up the Accord's tranny mount on the Prelude transmission. Click Here for DIY by TysCb7
For Autos nothing is needed it just bolts up with no additional modding.
Fuel Rail:
use whichever fuel rail works, the USDM f22 and h22 rails are the same, but JDM ones have the fuel fitting on the opposite side. Just use whatever works, and use the h22a's injectors and sensors... If your new motor is JDM, youll most likely need to reuse your old fuel rail.
Exhaust:
For the H22A the USDM 93-96 Vtec manifold will bolt right up to the CB7 Exhaust. However the JDM H22A down pipe seems to have larger flange that will not bolt up to the CB7 cat. You can either cut and weld a new flange or the easiest route would be just purchase an aftermarket header for the 93-96 Vtec Prelude. Redrilling three new holes in the larger JDM downpipe flange will also make it so it fits.
* When installing an H22A4 (97+ USDM H22A) I have heard that in some cases, the header rubs the front crossmember. You will need to grind down the front crossmember in this case.
For other engines such as an F22B1, of course a header and downpipe that matches the motor will need to be used, but the downpipe will not properly match up to the cat, it will be too long. Custom exhaust work will be required.
Using an OBD2 engine such as the 97+ H22A4 or Type-S H22A:
The easiest way to accomplish this goal is to use the OBD-1 distributor, Injectors, and ECU. I’m not going to get into converting the OBD-1 Cb7 to OBD-2a since almost no one will be doing this.
Here is a description of wiring for converting OBD-2 distributor wiring to OBD-1 and vice versa:
Internal/External Coil Issues:
If your car came equipped with an internal coil then the JDM H22 distributor will plug right in no problem. However, if your car had external coil then you will have to modify one plug. The plug you will need to modify is the plug that went to the stock coil. There are is a yellow and a yellow/black wire, splice those 2 wires together. The Black/White wire is useless, don’t worry about it. If you dont want to cut the plug off and splice, jam a 30amp fuse into the end of the plug, making the connection between the two wires.
If your car is external coil and you wish to maintain the external coil you will need to open the JDM dizzy, remove the internal coil. Run the wire from the igniter that used to go to the internal coil out of the distributor and plug it into the blank spot on the distributor’s plug. That’s it. Use the 93-95 Prelude Vtec’s Distributor cap and rotor that you can pick-up and your local dealer or auto parts.
What caps to use:
Internal coil – CB7 internal coil cap/rotor or 00 Civic SI cap/rotor.
External coil – 93-95 Prelude Vtec cap/rotor.
Aftermarket Ignition amp install (MSD/Crane):
For External Coil equipped cars:
Cut the Plug that went to the stock coil off, splice the yellow and yellow/black
wires together connect this wire to the ignition on of your aftermarket amp (red for MSD). Connect the Black/White wire to the Trigger input of your aftermarket amp (White on MSD).
ApexI VAFC Settings:
These settings are different for each car, use these as a baseline and get your car on a dyno.
-2 from 0-4800 wide throttle
-5 from 4300-8000 wide throttle
Vtec low<>high 4700
Vtec high<>low 4600
Throttle point low 10 high 50
MORE INFORMATION BELOW!
* Special Thanks go to Wadzii for contributing allot of this information and poison for the diagram, Thank you.
General Swap Info:
Just about all of the F/H motors can be swapped because of their layout and bolt-up similarities, so in most cases the stock CB mounts and wiring harness are used. Below are the differences that you will need to look out for, and which combination of parts to use. If swapping a motor is new to you, check out the F22 Removal Guide.
Most of this info is for swapping the H22A/1/4 however it can be applied for other engines you may wish to swap such as the F22B1/2 or F23Ax. For possible engine swaps list refer to this thread http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=&threadid=523.
Buy a manual for the year vehicle your engine came from, for the vehicle it’s going into, and for the year of the ECU you plan to use.
Example: 97H22 with P13 OBD-1 ECU (1994 Vtec Prelude) into a 93 Accord. Get a 97 Prelude helms, a 94 Prelude helms, and a 93 Accord helms manual. Go to www.helminc.com to get them.
Use the accord wiring harness and lengthen/modify the harness to fit the H22. If you undo the tape and loom on your F22 harness you will free up allot of free wire. For instance you will not have to lengthen the O2 wiring, If you remove the tape and loom there is enough wire to move the O2 wiring to it’s new location. Just re-tape and loom when you are done. If possible try to solder and heat shrink all the engine harnesses connections to avoid problems.
The oil pressure sensor has a different plug on the h22, swap the accord sensor onto the h22 or simply change the plug. The EGR also has a different plug. Simply reuse your F22 EGR valve or change the plug. The F22 has an extra coolant temp sensor on the radiator return neck that H22 does not, simply swap necks between engines.
Pin locations for OBD-1 ECU’s:
- Vtec solenoid: Pin A4
- Vtec pressure switch: Pin D6
- Knock sensor: Pin D3
- Secondary Intake Solenoid: Pin A17 (Connect Black/Yellow wire on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A17)
- FPR Solenoid: Pin A10 (Connect Black/Yellow on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A10. This Solenoid is not found on all H22’s but it is on some. It will not hurt anything if you don’t use it, but should you want to this is the correct way to connect it. It is located near the fuel rail next to the IAC on the H22)
* Using a 94/95 Accord ECU (P0A/P0B)? Swap pin A6 with A11 on the ECU harness. This is necessary since the 5th gen was wired opposite of the 4th gen for these two pins.
Where to get pins:
Go to a junkyard, find any OBD-1 Honda, and cut the ECU harness out. There you have a ready supply of ECU pins. Just remove the style pin you need and install it in the blank spot on your current plug. Of course cut enough so you can splice to
.Plug identification and numbering:
The largest plug is “A”, the middle and smallest is “B”, the last and second largest plug is “D”. Plug “C” only exists on 4WS vehicles. The pins are numbers in the “Zig-Zag” fashion and from the wire side. Meaning looking at the plug from the wire side pin 1 will be on the left, pin 2 below it, pin 3 to the right of pin 1 on the top row, so on and so fourth. Top row is odd and the bottom row is even.
Axles:
- For simplicity use the Accord Axles and half shaft. If you wish you can use the Prelude half shaft and have the Prelude driver’s side inner joint attached to the Accord Axle. Do not use the Prelude axles as they are to long.
Air Conditioning (H22A):
To keep ac take the bracket off the F22 and put it on the H22 and use the Accord compressor.
Alternator:
Prelude and Accord alternators are the same, they just have a different sized pulley. Either one will bolt up to either bracket, but if you replace your alternator for the one with the smaller pulley, youll either need a shorter belt or youll need to use washers on the 10mm tensioner bolt to get it to tighten all the way. Prelude alternators have a 6 ribbed pulley while accord alternators have a 5 ribbed pulley.
Power Steering (H22A):
Use the 4th gen Bracket and pump with a custom sized belt. Only two bolt holes will line up and you will have to shim the lower hole. Or you can use the H22A Bracket, Pump, and you will need the Prelude high pressure line.
Mounts:
For the H22A simply reuse the all the Accord mounts. The actual size and shape of the f22a and the h22a are exactly the same, so bolting all of the original mounts and brackets onto the new motor should take care of any mounting issues. With everything swapped over, the motor will bolt directly back in.
For other engines such as the F22B1 you will need to use the F22Ax driver’s side inner mount and bracket, the one that passes through the timing covers and bolts into the side of the block. Remove it from the F22Ax and reuse it on the F22B1. All the bolts will line up except for one.
Transmission Mounts:
For the 5-Speed you will to use a 10x1.25mm tap to tap the two unused holes in the Prelude transmissions case. Before you can do this the holes need to be enlarged with an 11/32" drill bit... get a drill bit that is made to drill through metal! Remove the two studs from their old location, and install them in the location you just drilled and tapped. Then you can mount up the Accord's tranny mount on the Prelude transmission. Click Here for DIY by TysCb7
For Autos nothing is needed it just bolts up with no additional modding.
Fuel Rail:
use whichever fuel rail works, the USDM f22 and h22 rails are the same, but JDM ones have the fuel fitting on the opposite side. Just use whatever works, and use the h22a's injectors and sensors... If your new motor is JDM, youll most likely need to reuse your old fuel rail.
Exhaust:
For the H22A the USDM 93-96 Vtec manifold will bolt right up to the CB7 Exhaust. However the JDM H22A down pipe seems to have larger flange that will not bolt up to the CB7 cat. You can either cut and weld a new flange or the easiest route would be just purchase an aftermarket header for the 93-96 Vtec Prelude. Redrilling three new holes in the larger JDM downpipe flange will also make it so it fits.
* When installing an H22A4 (97+ USDM H22A) I have heard that in some cases, the header rubs the front crossmember. You will need to grind down the front crossmember in this case.
For other engines such as an F22B1, of course a header and downpipe that matches the motor will need to be used, but the downpipe will not properly match up to the cat, it will be too long. Custom exhaust work will be required.
Using an OBD2 engine such as the 97+ H22A4 or Type-S H22A:
The easiest way to accomplish this goal is to use the OBD-1 distributor, Injectors, and ECU. I’m not going to get into converting the OBD-1 Cb7 to OBD-2a since almost no one will be doing this.
Here is a description of wiring for converting OBD-2 distributor wiring to OBD-1 and vice versa:
Internal/External Coil Issues:
If your car came equipped with an internal coil then the JDM H22 distributor will plug right in no problem. However, if your car had external coil then you will have to modify one plug. The plug you will need to modify is the plug that went to the stock coil. There are is a yellow and a yellow/black wire, splice those 2 wires together. The Black/White wire is useless, don’t worry about it. If you dont want to cut the plug off and splice, jam a 30amp fuse into the end of the plug, making the connection between the two wires.
If your car is external coil and you wish to maintain the external coil you will need to open the JDM dizzy, remove the internal coil. Run the wire from the igniter that used to go to the internal coil out of the distributor and plug it into the blank spot on the distributor’s plug. That’s it. Use the 93-95 Prelude Vtec’s Distributor cap and rotor that you can pick-up and your local dealer or auto parts.
What caps to use:
Internal coil – CB7 internal coil cap/rotor or 00 Civic SI cap/rotor.
External coil – 93-95 Prelude Vtec cap/rotor.
Aftermarket Ignition amp install (MSD/Crane):
For External Coil equipped cars:
Cut the Plug that went to the stock coil off, splice the yellow and yellow/black
wires together connect this wire to the ignition on of your aftermarket amp (red for MSD). Connect the Black/White wire to the Trigger input of your aftermarket amp (White on MSD).
ApexI VAFC Settings:
These settings are different for each car, use these as a baseline and get your car on a dyno.
-2 from 0-4800 wide throttle
-5 from 4300-8000 wide throttle
Vtec low<>high 4700
Vtec high<>low 4600
Throttle point low 10 high 50
MORE INFORMATION BELOW!
* Special Thanks go to Wadzii for contributing allot of this information and poison for the diagram, Thank you.
. Are you sure its not just cached in your browser? Try clearing your browser cookies and stuff and see if you can still reach it. All of the links are busted too, not just the one in this thread... its like it disappeared 
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