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FYI: problem associated w/ camber kit install (upper control arm, fenderwell)

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    FYI: problem associated w/ camber kit install (upper control arm, fenderwell)

    "Problem commonly associated with camber kit install..."

    i would just like to take a moment of my boredom to explain a problem that occured with my cbsev when i installed my camber correction kit. this thread should help answer questions that i know would have eventually ended up being posted in here.

    about a year ago, i installed a front end camber kit on my accord. i had the alignment shop set the camber at 0.0. as i was driving home from the aligment shop (after installing the kit), i noticed that the ride quality was dramatically decreased. it was a lot more stiffer. every time i would run over a bump or dip in the road, i would feel it 5X as hard. i would hear this hitting sound associated with running over the bumps. it sounded like something was bottoming out. it was a horrible ride.

    the shop tried to feed me some b.s. about "the wheels now being more straight... and of course i'm going to feel the bumps more hard because i'm hitting them head on..." and blah, blah, blah... but i took the matter into my own hands.

    after a few days of examination, my dad and i found out that my upper control arm was hitting the inside of my fender on each side that the camber was corrected.


    you can clearly see that the tip of the control arm was giving that fender a good pounding whenever i encountered a nasty bump in the road


    what had happened, was... whenever i brought those wheels from the /----\ stance to the |----| stance, the control arm was pulled more outwards. when the arm was pulled outwards, it also stood up straighter as well. if you think about it, the control arm position is going to change along with the wheels' position. if those wheels are sitting at an angle, the arm will also be sitting inside of that fender at more of an angle (allowing more travel room). but, if it's sitting straight up... it's much closer to the wall. and if you are sitting pretty low, that arm is going to bang that fender much more easily.

    after creating this theory, i proceeded to first try and shave some edge off of each control arm. to do this, i used a dremel tool.



    i thought that this would be the solution, but the problem still persisted.

    finally, i had the alignment shop deliberately set the camber off -1.0 degree on each side... and i also raised the front end up 1/2". this combination gave me enough needed travel space for that upper control arm.

    basically, this is a case of 'you can't have your cake and eat it to'. but in order to cure this problem, you will have to settle for this solution. you'll have plenty of c. arm travel space, and tread life won't be bad either.

    i look at it this way: -1.0 degree is not too shabby as compared to the -3.2 degree camber that i was sportin' beforehand.

    well, i hope that this FYI gave everyone some insight to this particular problem. feel free to add any additional questions or experiences, and i'm sure that me and the cb7 suspension mods will gladly answer.

    #2
    all our problems would be solved if the upper ball joint was mounted lower on the steering knuckle, and the 2 upper arm anchors were extended downward to match. wonder why honda made the knuckle so tall?


    - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
    - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
    - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
    Current cars:
    - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
    - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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      #3
      Honda made it the way it is because they never intended the car to be lowered.
      Once upon a time I took a joyride in a Huayra...

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        #4
        :werd:

        Sold, but not forgotten.

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          #5
          i took a hammer to where the control arm was hitting inside and pushed it out a little bit.

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            #6
            Where can I find a camber kit for a decent price?

            I need both sides for the front.

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              #7
              When i had my camber kit installed they alignment shop just knocked out the inner fender wall a bit so it would give the control arm some room, plus shaved the control arm down a bit. With camber kit install for really low cars... the only advice i can give is either raise it up a bit or be ready to shave down the control arm or inner fender wall.
              Tein SS

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                #8
                i have the same problem i even hammered the arm in a little but it still makes a huge noise in the front end gonna have to do what accordtunerx did

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                  #9
                  Yeah, I have to keep like -1.5 degrees on both to not hit them. I also have a problem when i turn all the way to one side that the wheel weights hit. When I get a chance to hit out the fender I will cuz i would like to keep the camber around -.5 Someone needs to manufacture a new knuckle that the top part is just in by 1 cm.

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                    #10
                    I know they've been doing this to old cars that ride on air bag suspension for a while, but could you cut your knuckles down the same length you lowered your car? I realized the knuckles would be useless if you ever wanted to return it to stock but wouldn't that still keep the same suspension geometry? Just a question. Shoot me down if I'm wrong.
                    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                      #11
                      adjustable control arm

                      anybody got these. I bought a set for the front upper. on these
                      the ball joint moves instead of the whole control arm. its welded onto a rectangular plate and has 4 bolts which attaches it to the control arm.
                      the end of it is wider than the stock one by like half an inch.

                      if anyone has these what did you guys do to the inner fender well? did you hammer it in or did you have to cut it out?

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                        #12
                        I wasn't aware that any company made a kit with adjustable control arms for our cars. All I've seen are adjustable ball joints and adjustable anchor bolts. What brand are they and where did you get them?
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                          #13
                          having the camber set -1.0 degree off isn't necessarily a bad thing. Because when going through a "spirited" turn on the road or on an auto x track your tires are set /----/ leaned to one side right? well when u start to go through that turn your tires level out to become |-----| while turning. Which increases contact patch, cornering stability, and control.
                          Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

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                            #14
                            adjustable control arms

                            I bought the control arms from Chassistech.com to find them on the site just select "Lowered cars not air" then select "HONDA" and then on page 2 they will be in the second row right hand side it will say "control arm honda 90-93 accord"


                            they are the upper control arms, come with the ball joints and all the necessary hardware. adjustable up to 4 degrees.

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                              #15
                              yeah, mine does that too. i had to bang the inner fenders and shave the damn arm in order not to hit.

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