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jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX

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    I used h23 head studs on all my f-series builds with no issues.

    MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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      On the F22 builds, did you torque those ARP head studs in steps to 78 ft-lbs or 90 ft lbs? I have those same head studs on my F22 and I wasn't sure whether to follow the ARP torque specs or the Honda manual torque specs.

      MRT

      14.38 @ 98.66mph
      The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
      Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.346

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        I always use the manufacturer/ARP Specs.... also make sure to check if the spec is with or without oil/lubericant. I tend to use lubricant, therefore i use the oiled specs.
        MR Thread
        GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

        by Chappy, on Flickr

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          That is actually a very important detail. I always let head studs and their hardware soak in oil the night before I use them. It might be too much but I've just always done it that way and never had problems.

          MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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            well, I'm an idiot then. why do I never do enough research before I install something?! I used Loctite on the lower fastener threads because I was never planning on removing the studs, used the ARP supplied lubricant on the washers, nuts, and threads up top, and torqued to 78 ft lbs in three steps. At the time, I was worried about damaging the new OEM Honda head gasket, and simultaneously thinking that the 90 foot pounds spec. was for the h23a, since these were designed for that motor. The instructions only mention the one spec. with the lubricant.
            Last edited by af_1132; 12-31-2014, 03:45 PM.

            MRT

            14.38 @ 98.66mph
            The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
            Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.346

            Comment


              I soak mine as well....lol
              MR Thread
              GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

              by Chappy, on Flickr

              Comment


                I was under the impression arp's studs were all the same for F/H motors...what ones am I supposed to order? Got a part number? And what torque specs do I want to use?

                Also just wondering, got any videos of when u were making more power than in ur 206hp 0-145 video? also curious what manifold/tb/inj. setup were u using when you were making that gnarly 250whp?

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                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...&postcount=174

                  MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                    My bad lol

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                      So I got a question, I was looking for a bisi header and all I see is the top half, no downpipe. I searched for a 2"primary 2.5"collector 4-1 merger, but found none.
                      So I got 3 questions actually;

                      Are the 4 pipes on a bisi header before the collector 2"?

                      I found a 4-1 merger 2"primary with 2.75" collector, is this to big?

                      And lastly, would using (2) 2-1 2"primary,2"out in place of a 4-1 merger, followed up by a 2-1 2" primary, 2.5"collector rob power? I'm assuming it would make the bisi top half worthless...?

                      Comment


                        If you're not planning to go higher than a bisi level2 or delta 272 the bisi header isn't really worth the money. Just do a 2.5" collector mod on a megan or a dc. These bolt-on cars minus a cam will see no gains between a 2.5" modded cheap header vs a bisi header. If you do have a cam there is minimal gain swapping to a bisi header. The bisi header shines from about 6000-7800rpm. Bisi level 2 cam power band is 4-6.2k.

                        MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                          I'm planning on;
                          Web 148E+3 cam
                          clean up PnP on an A6 head
                          A6 runners/h22 plenum w/64mm tb and all matched up by maxbore
                          4-hole Bosch H22 injectors
                          F23a w/single row pulley
                          Megan header w/2.5" collector, 2.5" exhaust
                          And an M2S4, for now. M2B4 comes in july, along with .045" milling, Skunk2 IM w/66mm TB, KS balance delete kit, better injectors, then maybe a bisi header & 3" exhaust

                          So if you think a bisi isnt necessary at this point, I'll stay away from it for now.

                          Do you have any budget friendly ideas to make the intake manifold perform better?
                          Last edited by CB7DX420; 01-02-2015, 07:41 PM.

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                            if you read through my mrt and use the search feature I feel confident all your questions cane answeredn depth .

                            MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                              I have to a degree, it's rather hard to use this forum on my tablet which is all I have my computer went out on me lol
                              I'll just stick with what I know so far I guess. I'm sure I'll be fine with my planned setup.

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                                Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Post
                                I'm ready to see the bb6 type-s box in a cb7 for a while. If it is successful I will be swapping to it.
                                Has anyone looked into the flow & fitment characteristics of the Accord Type-R/Euro-R intake? Maybe with all the Prelude guys trying to buy up the Type-S intakes, members in Europe (I know we've got a few) can more easily source an ATR intake for American buyers?


                                Accord Aero-R

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