wow man. OMG....that vid....fack!!!
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jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX
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Actually no I didn't. Believe it or not the combustion chamber is fine up to 90mm. I just milled the head a little and got rid of the ridge but if you don't it won't hurt anything. If you are really worried about it from a performance aspect just mill the head .010-.020 and call it a day. And to sepulveda, did you get your injector issue fixed?
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Seems like you should probably deal with the difference in CC bore.
what advantages are there to gutting the intake like that? Are there any flowbench tests that indicate modifying the manifold like that actually yields any benefits? I get the concept, more volume etc etc Im just curious how it flows through each runner after its been modified like that.
More oem pistons options are always a plus!
Good luck with your buildOriginally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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Modding the intake like that gives you shorter, more straight runners while giving more plenum volume. This also puts the throttle higher above the runners which allows more equal airflow to each cylinder. For a stock cam I recommend keeping the manifold mostly stock, for mild to agressive cams it will be more power over the longer runners and smaller plenum with the benefit of a better price tag aswell.
If you look at an f22 head once milled .010" the combustion chamber does not have sharp edges or shrouded valves which would be the only reason to modify the combustion chamber other than to increase compression without hurting piston to valve clearances and they only do that in competetition cars.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View PostActually no I didn't. Believe it or not the combustion chamber is fine up to 90mm. I just milled the head a little and got rid of the ridge but if you don't it won't hurt anything. If you are really worried about it from a performance aspect just mill the head .010-.020 and call it a day. And to sepulveda, did you get your injector issue fixed?Last edited by Mishakol129; 02-05-2014, 07:16 PM.“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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i love the sleepy look you got goin on! big fan of sleepers and that thing is a beast! hopin you still go K though lol.
i have a few questions..?
is this the one that's sound deadened?
and that engineer lingo... chamfer? = matching the combustion chambers of the head (where the valves open up) to the bore of the cylinders?
i hear alot about that sharp spot stuff... do you think i would i have to do that to an h22a if i opened the bore up to 88mm? or would milling suffice like you mentioned aboveRIP '91 LX.
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Chamfer is to bevel (shave/cut/grind) the sharp edge or point off a corner. Bore matching is when you actually increase the size of the combustion chamber opening to match the bore.
88mm on an H22, are you putting sleeves in it? As far as chamfering goes, what you are trying to do is reduce the possibility of creating hot spots. Sharp edges are known hot spots in a combustion chamber. So if you have a sharp ridge that is inside the bore diameter then it is best to round it off or remove it completely.
It can also cause a bit of disruption in the flame front during the combustion process. It will cause a slight bit of turbulence vs a chamfered or bore matched combustion chamber.
This being said. Considering we are only talking about a 1mm bore difference, that is only a ridge of 0.5mm (0.02") around the edge of the combustion chamber, there really isn't going to be much of an issue here.Last edited by GhostAccord; 02-05-2014, 08:44 PM.
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thanks for the reply ghost, seen your port work and might give u a pm sometime this year about it if you're up for it.
okay i understand it better. so they only chamfer the cyl heads or does anyone ever soften out the edges at the top of the cyl sleeve too? (sounds disastrous but just curious lol)
even if it is only miniscule, i still might do either one (bore match or chamfer) if it's in my price range. wanna get the smoothest flow possible.
and yes i plan on sleeving, was originally going with golden eagle thru bisi because i already purchased bisi spec custom race pistons (arias). but after reviews/comparisons of sleeving services, most likely benson. still skeptical on who to trust. trust issues.RIP '91 LX.
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yes this is the car that is full sound deadened, i think it's fairly light at 2700lbs the way it is. with carbon hood and trunk coupled with some lighter oem seats it's possible to see 262Xlbs full interior weight. this thing with the 11:1 tsx pistons, lightweight rods and a hotter cam coupled with the T2W4 trans and a 4.64FD should put it at 220-230whp and running 13.6-13.4's. if i had some light weight wheels, slicks and some better aero parts maybe even 13.0's or high 12's. how badass would that be.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View PostIt added about 25-30lbs. Material was less than $100. I'm thinking about switching to dynamat though, the hushmat was way better than nothing but I've had dynamat in other cars and its lighter and cuts out the noise much much more. It cost more but is well worth it.RIP '91 LX.
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not even close. ive been installing stereos going on 11years and hush mat is great for the money but dynamat is better quality and weighs less due to less material doing a better job. another thing to do is get spray foam sealer and fill the a,b,and c pillars. the foam will expand in the pillars and help knock down some wind noise. dynamat also has extreme temp mat that you can put on the bottom of the hood to help knock down engine noise.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postnot even close. ive been installing stereos going on 11years and hush mat is great for the money but dynamat is better quality and weighs less due to less material doing a better job. another thing to do is get spray foam sealer and fill the a,b,and c pillars. the foam will expand in the pillars and help knock down some wind noise. dynamat also has extreme temp mat that you can put on the bottom of the hood to help knock down engine noise.Originally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View PostActually no I didn't. Believe it or not the combustion chamber is fine up to 90mm. I just milled the head a little and got rid of the ridge but if you don't it won't hurt anything. If you are really worried about it from a performance aspect just mill the head .010-.020 and call it a day. And to sepulveda, did you get your injector issue fixed?
https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...33639336_n.jpg
You sure about leaving it the way it is, because I read people say it causes detonation.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...12&postcount=9
Appreciate your help in this btw.Last edited by Mishakol129; 02-07-2014, 05:35 PM.“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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