I think with a level 3 bisi or a custom web cam, a cnc port and custom wiseco 11:1 87mm pistons on billet f23 rods is the way to go. With a good tune and supporting mods that should put down 230whp all day. I'd also spend the money to get everything fully balanced.
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jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX
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"maFia" id rock that decal.
Purchased From: busak87, GunRunner, Bruce Banner, Itstatcb7kid707, tJoods, DannyD
The Caravan 2015
MRT:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180919
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View PostI think with a level 3 bisi or a custom web cam, a cnc port and custom wiseco 11:1 87mm pistons on billet f23 rods is the way to go. With a good tune and supporting mods that should put down 230whp all day. I'd also spend the money to get everything fully balanced.
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I'm probably going to end up with a custom cam from web. I want something that will move peak power to around 6900-7000 vs the 6500rpm its at now and finally put a 3" exhaust with some 11:1 pistons. The rest will be focused on suspension and transmission. If I get 210-220whp on the superflow dyno with some better gearing and traction maybe I can finally get a mid 13sec pass.
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i just spent the past few hours reading this entire thread. my eyes hurt and i have a head ache. lol.
im so impressed with this build and thread. I currently have my old cb back from my ex. When i had it it was a rebuild stock h22 with bolt ons and it got down. BUT i had 1 guy with an f22 stay with me every race. I didnt regret my swap, the h NEVER gave me issues but i always told everyone if i had to do it over again, id build an F.
Now thanks to reading this, im going to finish the h23a1 my ex started, and run it until i can build an f. Turns out (by fate) i happen to have an f23a1 that need a bore/pistons and an a6 head just collecting dust......
im so over whelmed with all the info, im going to ask some questions now and then. just know it wasnt from lack of reading, but to much info at once lol,
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With less stroke and more bore using a h22a4 crank in an f23 sleeved block gives an extremely capable bottom end with minimal deflection. The more stable the bottom end the higher the rpms the more you cfm of air you can flow. It would take a 2728cc engine at 8k to flow the cfm of a 2300cc engine at 9500rpm. So to reach my goals of a fast all motor accord I'm going to focus on high rpm power and use gearing to make up for lack of torque. Ever wonder how b20vtecs beat the brakes off h22's and f20b's on h2b setups. Hell most b20V setups can make 220-230whp fairly easy ( ofcourse the 5% advantage from b-series gearbox helps) with 11:1's, port work, pro 1's and some good support mods. The biggest thing I can stress is rpm potential is key on naturally aspirated builds.
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Square bore I think is what you're talking about. I'm also planning a 26mm compression height so I can run a 148mm custom rod so I can get a 1.63 r/s ratio with a 2.3 liter. Just for reference, a B18Cx type-R and H22A is 1.58:1, K20 is 1.62:1 and all of these are commonly turned to 9k with much less stable main caps.
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got an update. so i decided to borrow some stuff from a friend and try my luck at the track again with good results. 225/50/15 nitto's and some spring spacers in the rear. i know cheap crappy tricks but it payed off.
vs
my best runs are always against slow cars, lol. i think because i naturally concentrate less when i feel like im actually racing .
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When I drove around to get the slip I was in shock, lol. I ran a total of 11 times but only the last three were on the 225's. This was the best but the other two were 13.990 and 14.006. The 13.996 was against a new 5.0 mustang GT. He ran a 13.996. In the mustangs defense......it had a newbie driver, lol. Well now I will definitely be looking into some better tires and stiffer springs. Also I don't know if I mentioned it before but the 14.030 pass was also using spring spacers.
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