jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX

[GhostAccord]

Also don't forget that the H22 piston uses fully floating wrist pins where as the F22 runs with press fit wrist pins. So if you are looking to run a stock F22 rod with OEM H22 pistons. You will have to have the PE bored and bushed to run floating pins. Not a big deal but a pretty important step that shouldn't be overlooked.

[jdm92_accorn]

I concur. I forgot about that part.

[jdm92_accorn]

well i finished up on some of the port work on my spare head. i may swap all the goodies out and put this head on soon. im pretty confident it will net me some ponies.

[P5ylance]

that portwork looks amazing! I will probably stick with stock compression, after looking at my budget. springs, cams, and the gasket will cost about $500 unless I find a deal somewhere, so i'll focus the rest of the money i have on the rebuild portion. how do you like your AEM v2 intake, as well? I'm looking into getting an aem intake, and I'm debating between the accord short ram, the accord cold air intake, or the prelude aem v2. im trying to find a used one. theres a used one in merced, but its a little far for me. I'm wondering if the accord CAI would be recommended over the prelude AEM v2, and I dunno if i should play it safe with carb and go with the accord intakes, or risk them saying that the AEM v2 is carb for only the prelude if they're dickheads.

[P5ylance]

i just watched your vid o-o wowww. also, your CEL comes on?

[jdm92_accorn]

The CEL is my shift light. As far as intakes go, the carb regulations are based on engines aswell and the prelude is equipped with a F22A1 in it's base model form. If you are definitely going with the level 2 cam I'd go with the prelude v2. Those intakes are tuned certain power bands and I think the prelude v2 is perfectly matched for the bisi level 2.

[jdm92_accorn]

well i think i've definitely decided on some ITR wheels powder coated gunmetal or silver. i was browsing and stumbled upon this,

Test:
Davenport Motorsports (www.davenportmotorsports.com) of Canada, wanted to see the dyno effects of running different wheels on cars. They took a factory 2012 Camaro SS and ran 3 dyno runs. They ran the first run with a set of aftermarket wheels, the 2nd run with a set of stock factory wheels and the 3rd run with a set of HRE P45S wheels, all in 20” sizes.

These results highlight the effects of rotational inertia on drive-train losses (the hp lost between the engine crank and the ground). Wheels and tires contribute to drive-train losses as energy is used to spin up the wheels (and decelerate the wheels under braking). From the dyno chart you can see the effect of replacing factory wheels with lighter HRE wheels and see the negative effects of installing heavier aftermarket wheels.

Results:
1. (Blue curve) Factory wheels: 20”x9.0” with Pirelli 275/40-20 tires weighing 68 lbs combined per rear wheel. – Max hp: 371 hp, Max Torque: 375 ftlbs - (Baseline)
2. (Red curve) Aftermarket wheels: 20”x9.0” with Pirelli 275/40-20 tires weighing 72 lbs combined per rear wheel – Max hp: 369 hp, Max Torque: 373 ftlbs - (A [-] loss of 2 hp and 2 ftlbs)
3. (Green curve) HRE wheels: 20”x11.0” with Nitto 315/35-20 tires weighing 60 lbs combined per rear wheel – Max hp: 380hp, Max Torque: 384 ftlbs - (A [+] gain of 8 hp and 9 ftlbs and that is running a 2” wider wheel/tire combo)



Conclusion:
The engine obviously still cranks out the same amount of hp and torque, the lighter HREs simply waste less of it before it gets to the ground. Also interesting to note is that the gains are not just peak gains, but gains across the entire rev range. If they had done a braking test, we would have seen similar results as the rotational inertia effects also have a significant effect on how much energy is used to stop the wheel/tire combo vs. stopping the car. We talk about these effects all the time and focus on designing lightweight wheels with low rotational inertia, but it isn’t every day that you get to see real hard data showing the true effects.

here's the link to where i found it
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...eel-horsepower

if my math is right, for every lb dropped between both drive wheels should be good for approximately .14% decrease in parasitic loss or increase in power reaching the pavement across the entire rev range. for example, the ITR wheels i want to run are 5lbs lighter per wheel so thats 10lbs total between both drive wheels. 10 x .0014 = .014 or 1.4% less drivetrain loss which on my 187whp equals roughly 3whp more making it to the ground switching to the ITR's vs the 92-96 prelude blades. now if i can couple those wheels with 23"x7.5" M&H slicks, a T2W4 transmission i can hopefull finally hit 13.8's in a all motor f series CB7 with full trim. gutted is one thing but a full functioning interior and gas mileage to boot makes all the difference in the world. BTW did the math yesterday when i filled up, 26.3mpg in the city with no vtec and bashing on it consistently. considering stock it has 95whp or less and gets 21/28 and now has almost double the power and 5+mpg more i think im almost satisfied, lol.

[P5ylance]

Thanks!! Gonna pick up an aem v2 I found on craigslist from merced today, its about a 200 mile round trip for this intake but its definitely cheaper than buying it new!

[Macaqueistrong]

Thank you for sharing that bit of information on rotational inertia, very cool to see the dyno difference between the 3 wheel and tire combos.

[Tishock]

Additional info relating to rotating masses to also consider, in the link below. It's actually one of the first hits you get when you run a search for rotating mass.

http://www.w8ji.com/rotating_mass_acceleration.htm

This is the only article I could thinkof off the top of my head while on my phone. While the info within can easily apply to all vehicles, I believe it was intended for Mustangs. When I have time I paste a few more articles that I have saved on my laptop.

[P5ylance]

alrighty, I picked up the intake! I was planning on rotating my battery, but also noticed the AC line right next to the battery tray that might block me if I turn my battery. how did you fit the intake, and subsequently, did you mount or brace it in any way?

[P5ylance]

im reading through your thread from start to finish I'm trying to learn a lot from your build, very inspiring.

Would you recommend me grab up a p06 ECU whenever I can in preparation for tunes in the future?

[jdm92_accorn]

P06 ecu chipped on crome is a good start. As far as the battery I cut the lip off the battery tray and slid the battery over 1-2" and it fit.

[P5ylance]

My car will remain automatic so will I have to find the automatic variant or will any p06 be fine since they're gonna chip it anyways?

[jdm92_accorn]

Fortunately the cb7's have a seperate tcm so any p06 chipped should work.