lol I'm retarded sometimes. Your professional products looks exactly like my Skunk II TB in every way.
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jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX
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Purchased From: busak87, GunRunner, Bruce Banner, Itstatcb7kid707, tJoods, DannyD
The Caravan 2015
MRT:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180919
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it pretty much is. only diff is the skunk2 is probably cheaper, lol. i payed $115 i think for mine new about 4+ yrs ago. i wish someone would buy my dag on manifold so i can fix my car faster, lol. also by the way i thought id share some tech info.
if you want to see whats the best intake and tb setup for your street engines here's a few formuulahs(formulas, lol)
side notes: intake runner on f22a head is 3.6" so this needs to be figured into intake manifold runner length. ie, if you need a 13" runner length for the power band you want you need to subtract 3.6" from it. so 13.0"-3.6"=9.4" intake manifold runner length.
VE= volumetric efficiency (95 for most street hondas)
DL= displacement in liters
DC3= displacement in cc
PTR= peak torque rpm
SQRT= square root
^(2)= squared= the number times itself
(intake plenum size)= .6-1.3 x (DL) on n/a and 1.5-2 x (DL) on turbo. larger plenums offer more hp and torque potential but smaller offers better response. its your preference.
(ideal total runner length)= (84,000)/(PTR)
(ideal runner diameter in mm)= ((SQRT [((PTR)x(DL)x(VE))/3330])x.1) x (25.4)
(ideal throttle body size in mm)= (SQRT [ ((154.2)x(# of cyl)x(stroke in inches)x(redline rpm)x((bore in inches)^(2))/67,547])x1.15
(ideal intake tube diameter)= 1.15 x throttle body size
examples of my setup:
peak torque: 4900rpm
redline: 7500rpm
bore: 85mm or 3.346"
stroke: 95mm or 3.74"
#cyl: 4
displacement in cc: 2156 or 2.2 liters (technically 2.156L, lol)
aspiration: natural
my ideal plenum is .6 x 2.156L = 1.3L plenum (skunk2 pro h22 I.M.)
my ideal runner length is 84,000/4,900 = 17.14" then 17.14-3.6(f22 intake port length) = 13.5 in (skunk2 pro h22 I.M.)
my ideal runner diameter is ((SQRT[((4900)x(2.2)x(95))/3330])x .1)x(25.4) = 44.5mm (skunk2 pro h22 I.M.=50mm but is port-able up to 54mm)
my ideal throttle body is (SQRT [ ((154.2)x(4)x(3.74)x(7500)x((3.346)^(2))/67,547])x1.15 = 61.58mm (oem S2000 throttlebody)
my ideal intake tube diameter is 1.15 x 62mm = 71.3mm or 2.8"(AEM V2 prelude intake)
lol, now you know how i make good power and how i made my decisions on my parts. there's a whole other part to tuning frequency chambers to create an air supercharging effect.
now this math is not for the faint of heart. if you're having a hard time understanding it just let me know and I'll help.Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 06-06-2013, 11:00 PM.
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lol. its not for most. i promise you though, this math works. my best whp was 175whp and 162wtq on a bone-ass stock f22 with a camshaft (barely larger than a stock f22a6 cam) and I/H/E/IM. i changed my mind on the whole 4-2-1 front for my setup aswell. im actualy thinking about staying with a 4-1 header because my future build plans are for the higher rpms. i want to get another CB7 coupe but i want the next one to be a DX model. i want to do a 2400lb cb7 with an all motor F-series. truth be told i've thought about converting the DD into a K20A-R. cant argue with the results. a k20a type r from hmotors is about 5k. a swap header, mounts, fuel system, kelford stage-1's, bored tb, and kpro is about 3k. $500 for ac liof nes and misc. but for 8.5k i can have all the luxuries i had with my stock accord lx with the benefits of 35+mpg, 260whp,165wtq, 6spd and the 9k rpm soundtrack. plus the fun factor of maxing out the 8k tach. this coupled with my varex muffler and the prelude blades would make for a great sleeper. 260whp + 5.0 jdm crv final drive = high 12's in a cb7 all motor with a very streetable stock engine.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postlol. its not for most. i promise you though, this math works. my best whp was 175whp and 162wtq on a bone-ass stock f22 with a camshaft (barely larger than a stock f22a6 cam) and I/H/E/IM. i changed my mind on the whole 4-2-1 front for my setup aswell. im actualy thinking about staying with a 4-1 header because my future build plans are for the higher rpms. i want to get another CB7 coupe but i want the next one to be a DX model. i want to do a 2400lb cb7 with an all motor F-series. truth be told i've thought about converting the DD into a K20A-R. cant argue with the results. a k20a type r from hmotors is about 5k. a swap header, mounts, fuel system, kelford stage-1's, bored tb, and kpro is about 3k. $500 for ac liof nes and misc. but for 8.5k i can have all the luxuries i had with my stock accord lx with the benefits of 35+mpg, 260whp,165wtq, 6spd and the 9k rpm soundtrack. plus the fun factor of maxing out the 8k tach. this coupled with my varex muffler and the prelude blades would make for a great sleeper. 260whp + 5.0 jdm crv final drive = high 12's in a cb7 all motor with a very streetable stock engine.
Purchased From: busak87, GunRunner, Bruce Banner, Itstatcb7kid707, tJoods, DannyD
The Caravan 2015
MRT:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180919
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lol. one day i'll sit down and consolidate some header fomulas for you guys.Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 06-07-2013, 01:11 AM.
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funny story, i found a f23 that runs pretty good on craigslist for $150. so i went to go pick it up and low and behold he's got a 95 accord that he pulled it out of to put in his h22. turns out he also has a f20b head that is in perfect condition. so i wonder how hard it would be to put a f20b head on a f23 with k20 pistons.
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Sounds like it might be fun with a nasty set of cams and your intake. Should set you around 215whpLast edited by bigpoppa694lyfe; 06-12-2013, 09:31 PM.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postfunny story, i found a f23 that runs pretty good on craigslist for $150. so i went to go pick it up and low and behold he's got a 95 accord that he pulled it out of to put in his h22. turns out he also has a f20b head that is in perfect condition. so i wonder how hard it would be to put a f20b head on a f23 with k20 pistons.
I have pictures of it in my Frankenstein thread.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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well i made the decision. i ordered another level 2 bisimoto cam and a bisimoto cam gear. next wednesday or thursday i'll be ordering a f23 from jdmenginedepot.com and will be posting the head for sale to recoupe. im tired of looking for a good block locally. i've spent way too much time in junk yards pulling heads just to find worn out bottom ends. then i'm going to pull a f22a6 cylinder head and have it cleaned up, put in new valvesprings, new oem honda retainers and keepers and have it rebuilt. i want to port it but budget wont allow it. so basically it will be the same as the f22 with a larger cam, higher compression and a bump in displacement by roughly 100cc. wish me luck.
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well my brother put me up to a challenge a few days ago. he is convinced his sr20ve with I/H/E is going to out run me, although he does have about 7-10wtq more than most ve's. lets see what you guys think.
sr20ve i/h/e/tune in b13 2310lbs with driver
mine before i/h/e/im/c/tune cb7 2881 with driver
Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 06-19-2013, 09:25 AM.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postwell my brother put me up to a challenge a few days ago. he is convinced his sr20ve with I/H/E is going to out run me, although he does have about 7-10wtq more than most ve's. lets see what you guys think.
sr20ve i/h/e/tune in b13 2310lbs with driver
mine before i/h/e/im/c/tune cb7 2881 with driver
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postit seems like it does a little bit. its mainly the header most of them run. it's made for a regular sr20de not the ve so it bottle necks at the collector. but still, its quite a bit lighter. well i ordered the block for mine tonight. anyone looking for a vtec sohc setup, lol.
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