So Blake put in some overtime and got the downpipe and dumptube done. I should be picking up all the work he did for me this weekend.
I will start the next phase of my flight training on Tuesday, which will take up majority of my free time for the next 4-6 weeks. I will try and work a little at a time so when I get my next break in training I can use it to get the car running and tuned.
On to more car porn, but first my new shift boot my wife bought me for our anniversary 93 Civic Password:JDM shift boot:
Dumptube and Downpipe intertwined beautifully:
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Grumpys93 : 1993 Accord LX
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Jesus!!! This is becoming too beautiful. You're going to want to put it on the wall and not your car :P
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostFor the battery tray, couldn't you have mounted an OEM tray (or something similar) to the trunk floor, then mounted the battery in that?
Blake got all the piping needed to start finishing up the downpipe and dump tube. He sent me some awesome update pictures of his crazy craftsmanship skills.
Portion of the downpipe in its raw form:
Beautiful color on his pie cuts:
No sugar or barbs in here, his purge caps are awesome for all you tig welders out there:
Mounted to the turbo, everything is coming together nicely:
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostThe trunk itself has an air vent so the pressure in the car releases when the doors are shut. I haven't vented mine either, and it was good enough for SCCA autocross.
Note: The gasket around that vent is a prime source for water leakage into the trunk on that side.
For the battery tray, couldn't you have mounted an OEM tray (or something similar) to the trunk floor, then mounted the battery in that?
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Isn’t the vent for the trunk on the driver side like under the antenna motor mount?
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The trunk itself has an air vent so the pressure in the car releases when the doors are shut. I haven't vented mine either, and it was good enough for SCCA autocross.
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Originally posted by Raf99 View PostProbably no need to vent, that battery box isn't air tight, neither is the trunk.
So to get the battery out you have to go under the car? And what hardware did you use under the car, just lock washers and bolts?
This is true about not being air tight. I will hold off on venting outside until someone says I can’t race because of it.
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Probably no need to vent, that battery box isn't air tight, neither is the trunk.
So to get the battery out you have to go under the car? And what hardware did you use under the car, just lock washers and bolts?
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Today I was able to complete phase 2: I installed the battery box and mounted it to the frame, so it shouldn't be going anywhere. I originally wanted the battery mount to be inside the battery box, but space was tight and I didn't want to cut a bunch of holes in the box. So this was the next best thing and I think it works perfectly fine.
Battery box cap on and secured:
I still need to create a vent tube connection to vent the battery outside the car, but all in all I'm happy.Last edited by Grumpys93; 01-09-2019, 10:29 PM.
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Originally posted by bjaccord View PostWhen I was racing years ago I had to have a cut off switch for the relocated battery, I mounted it in the body filler panel that is under the tail light. I bought a second one, painted it to match and mounted my switch in it. Then when I wasn't racing I was able to put the old one back.
It's held in with two 10mm bolts and can be swapped around very quickly.Originally posted by Raf99 View PostThat's a good idea...
So today I got some parts in the mail:
Side note: it amazes me that a civilian company such as Amazon can make a federally owned company change its ways and deliver packages on Sunday.
Anyways back to what I got done today. I completed phase one of making my battery relocation safe. I cut a portion of the positive cable and added a terminal onto it to connect it to the 180 amp Circuit breaker I bought a couple months ago:
Crimped and soon to be heat shrinked:
Phase 1 complete: Installed Circuit Breaker and attached cables, I plan to purchase plastic washers to prevent inadvertent arching or the circuit breaker shorting out on the frame.
Tomorrow I should be getting the battery box in which if I have time will install it and complete phase 2.
Phase 3 consists of incorporating the external quick disconnect switch using BJaccord's idea of the removable filler panel.
Phase 4 is adding the engine to battery ground.
I originally mentioned that I was going to put in a firewall pass through however I may hold off on that until I pull the dash in the future to completely remove all SRS compenents and wires.Last edited by Grumpys93; 01-07-2019, 12:18 AM.
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Originally posted by bjaccord View PostWhen I was racing years ago I had to have a cut off switch for the relocated battery, I mounted it in the body filler panel that is under the tail light. I bought a second one, painted it to match and mounted my switch in it. Then when I wasn't racing I was able to put the old one back.
It's held in with two 10mm bolts and can be swapped around very quickly.
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Originally posted by Grumpys93 View PostNot sure where I am going to put the external disconnect switch, or if I will run one. Still on the fence about it.
It's held in with two 10mm bolts and can be swapped around very quickly.
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So if you look at the picture with the battery you can see the battery tie down bar(red bar). I bolted it through to where I can put nuts on underneath the car. They sit on each side of the muffler. I can snap a pic for you. But I bought a plastic battery box with a vent tube I plan to route outside. I plan to put the battery in the box, then drill two holes where the tie down bolts go through the box, so I can still anchor it to the frame of the car. Yet have the box to protect the battery. I then put silicone or make a rubber grommet to have the bolt go through and prevent water from getting into the trunk.Last edited by Grumpys93; 01-04-2019, 09:44 PM.
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