Boost_Lee : 1991 Accord EX

[evil_demon_01]

. . .
Not a good day Lee.
Put the Haltech map sensor in, and it would read 30psi when I was cranking the engine, barely ran, then wouldn't start at all (and that was on MY map) - So had to get some new sparkplugs, and go off the stock map sensor.
I've PM'd Mike to find out what the pinouts of the map sensor are just incase thats the problem, Otherwise I've no idea whats going on.
Anyway with it running good on the stock map sensor, drove out to the back roads on my map to set up the boost solenoid.

Once I'd sorted that, I uploaded your map (with the map sensor set as stock, and injectors set to 450cc) Also turned off closed loop.

Results . . . Hugely lean like, 13.9 at 4psi and then it would cut.
I diddn't have too much time to play, as my gas was getting low So I'll put some in tommorow, and try again.
However the fuel needs to be increased from 0 psi onwards - I would add at least 10% and check again.
When was the last time you did a free air calibration on your wideband sensor?
Can you please e-mail me your current map, and I'll play with that tommorow

[Boost_Lee]

if i had a damn laptop i would pull it off

damn haltech products

dont think ive ever done a free air calibration on the wieband...how is that done?

[Boost_Lee]

ur gonna be pushin mad air with that custom jdm yo ported IM

that shit better flow!

[LoDollar92LX]

that shit better flow!

if not, id get on a plane and bring it back to the expert that did it.
he would prob give u a stock one, take you out for drinks, then go do 3-4th gear burnouts and have a grand old time

[evil_demon_01]

if i had a damn laptop i would pull it off

damn haltech products

dont think ive ever done a free air calibration on the wieband...how is that done?

What wideband are you running? You should do it as they get inaccurate over time.

I just looked at your map sensor - You running the GM one? What are A,B,C pins for you?
You need to get a laptop - You won't regret it, I promise.

Crap I clicked the wrong button on your post - Edit instead of quote

[Boost_Lee]

What wideband are you running? You should do it as they get inaccurate over time.

I just looked at your map sensor - You running the GM one? What are A,B,C pins for you?
You need to get a laptop - You won't regret it, I promise.

Crap I clicked the wrong button on your post - Edit instead of quote

thats the most common noob moderator mistake

I believe I used:
A - GRND
B - SIGNAL
C - 5V
Same as posted on Hondata

Im running the Zeitronix Wideband unit which uses the Bosch sensor

[evil_demon_01]

thats the most common noob moderator mistake

I believe I used:
A - GRND
B - SIGNAL
C - 5V
Same as posted on Hondata

Im running the Zeitronix Wideband unit which uses the Bosch sensor

Thats how I had it wired

Bosch sensor, same as my Innovate.
Cant find anything on the net for the zeitronics, other than "Make sure you calibrate your sensor" . . . Typical

[Boost_Lee]

Thats how I had it wired the only obvious thing I see is Hondata says the terminal order is ABC, Where as the haltech stamps on the sensor BCA.

Bosch sensor, same as my Innovate.
Cant find anything on the net for the zeitronics, other than "Make sure you calibrate your sensor" . . . Typical

Same here, i cant see any info on calibrating the unit....

did you cut the R136 and R138 resistors on your ECU for the ELD usage? I've yet to do it

[evil_demon_01]

Same here, i cant see any info on calibrating the unit....

did you cut the R136 and R138 resistors on your ECU for the ELD usage? I've yet to do it

No I'm just using it as I received it. What's the necessity to cut those?
I'm running my wideband through ELD and its picking it up.
You using the P28 as well?

Edit: Just looked it up it says "Some ECU's may need to have resistors R136 and R138 removed to improve wideband reading accuracy in the software"
Also it says to remove your ELD

[d112crzy]

Wait, are you guys really exchanging maps back and forth, rescaling each time and expecting them to work? That is NOT the right way to do it.

Rescaling isn't just a straight forward job. Every engine has different voltage drops and intake temps. You could be .5 points off either way for all you know.

Lee, I thought you had a wideband? Can't you make the changes yourself instead of comparing your map with someone elses?

[evil_demon_01]

Wait, are you guys really exchanging maps back and forth, rescaling each time and expecting them to work? That is NOT the right way to do it.

Rescaling isn't just a straight forward job. Every engine has different voltage drops and intake temps. You could be .5 points off either way for all you know.

Lee, I thought you had a wideband? Can't you make the changes yourself instead of comparing your map with someone elses?

Lee needed a map to get his car running to start with, a basemap if you will.
I flicked him my current version, which wouldn't start his car.
He gave me his previous map which was setup for vtec for his old engine, So I merged the Low and high values as required to get the necessary fuel figures as close as I could.
And that is the map he is currently using, with changes made to fuel and timing.
I don't plan on making a fully tuned map for him - I'm on the otherside of the world, It would be damn near impossible. Due to intake temps, altitude, and even the engine itself.

Lee has a wideband, but not a laptop, so he can't datalog, and his arf's are too high in boost (as they are on mine using his map)
If I can bring the afr's down, I can send his map back, and he will have somewhere to start at least.

Sound better now

[WhiteLx]

Ride is sick man, whats wrong with the hood not shuttin right...

[noobcake]

Ride is sick man, whats wrong with the hood not shuttin right...

we figured out how we were going to fix that

[jaykilla116]

if you want the timing to keep up wit the boost

use spark plug wit a cooler heat range and make shure there platnuim or dubble platnium

[Boost_Lee]

im already running an 8 series plug, which is cold enough. I''ve seen V power coppers put down good numbers, it all depends on the setup and preference really.

thanks for the compliment, and yes, the hood has that kind of fitment - which is why im selling it.

And Jose, We have been exhanging maps only to work out the bigger bugs. I have finally got the car running correctly, so fine tuning will not be done over the net. That will all be done here, I was just getting a streetable map from Colin, and worked out all the sputtering issues, etc.
BTW, the car really doesnt run that lean going by my wideband. I believe the wideband is giving different readings to the ECU due to the voltage offset not being setup correctly; so im guessing i was around 12.3's and the ECU was reading 13.2 or so and it activated the lean cut. I did not see anything that lean on my wideband, believe me, i would have stopped.

Once i get a laptop here next weekend, I'll be able to finer tune this thing until it gets strapped to the dyno for the official tune.