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d112crzy : 1993 Accord LX
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F22b + MP1A = mad fun for me now. . .
MY RIDE
My swap parts list and pricing
vouches:
Bought from: Smeagren83(quite a few times now LOL), 97lude, AZaccord, M3torz2nR, g7kobayashi, sickoffthe206 and Kurobei, Jarhead, prNonVtec4u, caserX
Sold to: Snailin91, Smeagren83, cb7dazz, Drummersteve7, Slick
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Within the next 2 weeks hopefully.
The motor has actually been sitting in there for about a week. I was waiting on a few minor things to start it up. Finally got it done though. No leaks, compression is good, pulls good. Hope it remains like that for a while.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Originally posted by d112crzy View PostWithin the next 2 weeks hopefully.
The motor has actually been sitting in there for about a week. I was waiting on a few minor things to start it up. Finally got it done though. No leaks, compression is good, pulls good. Hope it remains like that for a while.
y0o0o son!!! I def have to say it was nice to meet yuh man I def wana take a drive up to your hood yuh kno and see wats goin down in o-town...also when u drop 3rd please give me three honks!!! haha cause I know you wouldnt of pulled on me that hard I bet prnonvtec was laughin his ass off!!!!!anyways I got a couple pr4 I ment to give you while you were down here... anyways bro take it easy an b safe
lata
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Josey, what you end up setting those piston ring gaps at? You ended up getting correct ones or just dropping those you had in? Hope it lasts ya man, I didn't like them gap #'s I was hearing. Also, them cast pistons you using? Cast don't fluctuate in size as much as forged when they get exposed to heat, meaning they gaps will not tighten up much more compared to forged. Atleast, that's what I've learned.
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Correct on the cast. And yes, I went ahead and used the specs I was telling you about. I didn't have much of a choice, considering my financial and time situation. She runs good though!
Got a code 9 last night while driving chessboxer around though. THe car runs normal, it just has that stupid code. I'll go outside and investigate once it stops raining.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Code 9 is CYL position sensor, which is inside the distributor base. Check your connections at the dizzy first, if that's aight then I'd swap out a known-good dizzy base and see if it goes away.
What is your tuning status on this motor?
Also, did you degree the camshafts in this motor? I'm not talking about setting it to stock, but installing a degree wheel and dial indicator to the valvetrain, etc.
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Nope. Wasn't about to spend $300 on a degreeing kit for a stock motor. The car runs fine, no signs of the cams being off, by much if any.
Tuning..I've had some quirks with it. There was audible pre-det on low vac conditions. I would richen the hell out of it(11afrs) and it would go away. So I retarded the hell out of the distributor and all seems to be fine. Which is the interesting part about all this. Why would I have to retard my distributor that much if my cam wasn't off? ANd if my cam where off by that much(would have to be at least 1 tooth), why does the engine pull like an engine with perfect mechanical timing?
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Bottomline, you have no comparison to your engine running with a proper cam timing, so you can not accurately judge or make any statements. It is all assumptions you are making.
My bro's 90 EX 5spd ran fine after getting a Tbelt job done by Honda dealer. However, if it were not for me trying to rev the motor past 5K, then I would not have noticed that something was not right. It was a dog past 5K. I checked physical timing, to verify it was off and adjusted it. Otherwise, no one else in my family would have ever known.
You have a hybrid build with different engine dimensional specs, you should do this. Heck, you mentioned that I was so detailed on everything on my build and why did I not do it. Well, it was my first build and I thought I could dial it in via cam tuning. That is not the case with my aggressive cam, I have learned more since. You need to establish this baseline first, then fine tune your cam timing to move your powerband up or down to your liking.
Anyways, you know that cam timing has a relationship with ignition timing. So if you do not have a solid baseline, you have nothing to go by in your assumptions on ignition timing issues (as you don't know if your cam timing is even set correctly).
When you say you retarded your dizzy (you make it sound awkward), what base ignition timing did you end up setting it at? In a sense, you basically have an H23 bottom end with H22 head, so like an H23 VTEC overall. I would have started off with base ignition timing of this type of motor. Also, keep in mind your ignition timing issues if they seem odd, may be related to this CYL position sensor code. You have to determine if that part is good or not.
You don't need to spend $300 on the cam degree kit. If you have access to a magnetic base dial indicator, then just buy the degree wheel and positive stop from web cams. Pointer can be made from coat hanger.Last edited by HondaFan81; 12-11-2008, 02:19 PM.
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Originally posted by WiKKeDV16 View Postlazy ass ******.. lol. your timing is at 24degrees on crome.. so something is up..
id suggest u recheck ur cam timing.. and dont be a lazy cunthair and remove the tranny and put a flywheel that actually has timing marks on it..
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Originally posted by WiKKeDV16 View Postlazy ass ******.. lol. your timing is at 24degrees on crome.. so something is up..
id suggest u recheck ur cam timing.. and dont be a lazy cunthair and remove the tranny and put a flywheel that actually has timing marks on it..
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