NH-503P-3 : 1992 Accord EX

[NH-503P-3]

Well I only have a couple types of blue leds. One thing I’m having a hard time at is getting more of these switches. All the CRVs I go to lately at pap have had the whole window switch panel snatched already. Idk how I got lucky on the first one I came to a week ago. Oh well there will be more to search next week.

[NH-503P-3]

Did some recent pick a part scoring these last two weeks. I found a complete fog light harness in a 90-91 sedan. I’m going to use the B harness for my car since it was the last piece I needed besides the lights themselves. Today I got these:



Blue leather. It’s a little dry but none of it is ripped. Still very usable. Unlike the rest of the interior, seats etc.
I also removed a set of the factory tan leather panels from a 93 SE. It’s interesting that the factory leather is attached to a metal panel that then sits in the whole door panel while all other non factory leather is attached straight to the door panels. I got a nice set of the “Bose” speaker tags from the panels too.
I also grabbed a set of black coupe side mirror perches.

[NH-503P-3]

Doing some more research I found that the 96-98 TL mirrors that come with heated lenses match the same internals as the DC Integras. Here’s a pic.



The TL housings without heat match the CB internals and that’s what I have on my car now. So now I’m ordering the 96-2000 Integra power folding mirrors which are allot cheaper to buy, they mount to our CB perches and have the correct mirror lense mount for the TL heated option. If you want the style of housing that matches the CB then you can get the 94-95 Integra pfm’s. The “Mc Rib” style (96-98 TL, 96-2000 Integra, 97-2000 Prelude) is the type I like.

[Mike1357]

Awesome stuff! I haven't seen someone use a lancer lip on their car in ages! If it weren't for me coming across a Sigma lip, that's probably the direction I would've gone. Great choice. I've also been contemplating doing the DIY SI-T lenses myself. They look like they turned out great! Those metal panels from the SE's are great for upholstering projects. Makes installation a cinch.

[bseballkid1990]

This is the master installed and finished.

I'm in love... that looks so cool

[NH-503P-3]

Thanks Mike1357, on the Si-T lights I definitely recommend using your Stanley factory housings. The aftermarket bumper lights fit like shit most of the time and since you have to cut them open anyways I dremmel just before the lense on the housing then carefully chip off the small pieces left that are attached to the lense after cutting. The factory lense on the Stanley housing I do kinda the opposite and cut the lense just past where it mounts to the housing. Then chip off what’s left. It takes some time and patience to build a set but they’re well worth the effort. I like em allot.

[NH-503P-3]

Bseballkid1990, the lighted switches put a smile on my face every time I see them lit up when I get in my car all warmed up early in the AM. It’s a fantastic upgrade. I’ve been looking at Acura Legend lighted door switches also. I’m going to see if those can be fitted into the Legends door lock mechanism or if they will fit in our CB lock mechanisms. Then I can light the door locks too! The door lock mechanism housings seem to be similar in how they bolt to the door lock brackets also.

[bseballkid1990]

Bseballkid1990, the lighted switches put a smile on my face every time I see them lit up when I get in my car all warmed up early in the AM. It’s a fantastic upgrade. I’ve been looking at Acura Legend lighted door switches also. I’m going to see if those can be fitted into the Legends door lock mechanism or if they will fit in our CB lock mechanisms. Then I can light the door locks too! The door lock mechanism housings seem to be similar in how they bolt to the door lock brackets also.

I bet. It's one of those small mods that people won't readily notice it but the ones that do will really appreciate the hard work and effort you put into making it work.

[NH-503P-3]

Ok so for this weekends projects:
When I drive to work with the heated seats on they tend to get pretty hot on the buns as I get further on my way. I had some 91-95 Acura Legend heat adjustable buttons that I’ve been wanting to try. I had a pair but they’re in crappy shape. So today at pap I found a beautiful set. Friggin things are like new. The Legend plugs match up and plug right into the male plugs of the Acura CL heated seat wiring I have in my car already. However the Legend wiring is pinned different. The top is the repinned and the bottom is the original Legend pin arrangement.



The inner part of the button openings needed to be trimmed a little as well as some of the small nubs under the Legend buttons. Now they sit flat. They work perfect and I can raise and lower the heat so I don’t cook my cheeks by the time I get close to work lol.

[NH-503P-3]

Up next:
I wanted lighted lock switches to go with my window switches. I thought I might be able to use Legend lighted switches but, nope. Scratching that idea I did get very lucky today and found another set of CR-V lighted switches. In my research I have found that 4-door CB door locks will work as the internal contacts that the buttons move against are offset. CB Coupe will not because the contact is centered. Acura RL 98-? Will work best because the housing is more open. The CB 4-door has to be trimmed inside just a little so the bottom of the diffuser on the CR-V button doesn’t hit the plastic when switched. Below is the CR-V switch with one of its “legs” removed. They just pull out. Now it will fit into the CB or RL lock housing.



Here is the lock switch all together with led. Easy peasy.



A couple shots installed in the car:





They aren’t chrome but it doesn’t look bad or out of place. I wonder if there’s a chrome paint pen that I can use on these? Idk they are fine for now lol.

[NH-503P-3]

I received the DC Integra pfm’s today. I got a very clean set in black of course because I cannot swap DC internals into CB housings. Although the housing size and shape and mirrors are the same. The internal mech piece does not bolt up the same. (Read my prior posts for more info)
I got the later DC/TL/Prelude style housing that is the (“Mc Rib” as I call them) distinguished by the bumped out rib on the back of the housing. You can see it clear in this pic below.



No joke; this housing design looks very nice on a CB. I’m not that fond of the plain back of the stock CB mirror housing anyways. I removed the DC perch piece as it will not be used and instead the whole complete mirror will be bolted to my CB coupe perches.
Below you can see that the complete TL heated lense pops right onto the DC mech. No need to separate and swap the mirror lense backing pieces on this setup.



More to come on the wiring part probably tomorrow.

[NH-503P-3]

Moving on to getting the parts prepped for the complete conversion.
The CB perch has one beveled side where the mirror mech base mounts to it with the three bolts. So in the pic below I took my trusty Dremel, taped off the surrounding areas and beveled the internal mech. mount piece. There’s a small round bump I ground flat also.



The image below is of the CB perch. You can see the one beveled side I had to match the mech. base to. I also nipped off the lil center nub in the round recess on the CB perch.



When you remove a set of heated lenses from a TL you need to cut past the mirror perch and through to where it runs in the door. Get a good length. Not like I did. Below is the (way to short) cut that I did, cutting them from just inside the mirror. But at least I cut them past the bullet plugs. The lenses are made to be replaced without taking apart the whole mirror after all lol.



I soldered new wires to each bullet plug then drilled a small hole in the plastic motor cover to feed the heated mirror wires through the center like the rest of the mirror wires are run. Then out and into and through the CB perch the same as the factory wires are run. The heated mirror can now be popped in and the complete mirror screwed to the CB perch.



Here is the completed assembly. From this side there is vertually no difference in the the looks of this conversion and a factory CB mirror. The only thing left is to trim the wires down and solder on the correct pins for the CB plug. The pin arrangement will correspond exactly with Jarretts diagram on page 3 of my ride thread. Thanks again Jarrett.
Well that’s one side. More to come.

[NH-503P-3]

Did some scoring at a few paps today. Along with some window molding, a bb4 shifter, and a sun visor for a friend overseas; I got lucky again and scored 3 sets of CR-V lighted switches.



I picked up a couple of Acura CL shifter bezels and an extra shifter boot bracket. This bracket holds the shift boot to the shifter console. It has to be cut down flush with the console so the Acura bezel can sit over everything. I’ll try and show an example build with my black interior shifter console.



After finishing up my DC/CB/TL hybridized pfm’s. I put them aside till I can get the car wired for them. I turned to the variable intermittent wiper upgrade I have multiple parts for also. When I remove these parts from a car. I pull the wiring all the way down to the blue plug then de-pin the wires from that blue plug. I try to keep it as plug and play as possible. From the blue plug to the A11 controller box I then take some male pins from the other side of the blue plug and make a two wire run to the pins that go into the green plug for the A11 controller. Here is the basic components below.

[Jarrett]

Very nice! I've just got a Deutsch 2-pin connector for the two extra wires, but doing it your way does seem more streamlined.

I'm doing it with an '01-'05 Civic EX wiper switch, so I've still got some other wires to figure out before it's done.

[NH-503P-3]

Hey Jarret, are you building the Civic switch for a CB? One thing I can’t quite remember is the two wires added to the A11 controller. In my picture above I have two wires pulled straight out to the left. This plug was cut from a 95 Accord (so it’s not a cut CB plug) Are those the two wires and or two pin plugs I’m supposed to go to? I’d have to pull apart my setup in my car to see it and I’m lazy right now lol.
I might have to get up under there anyways later today.
I got a module that opens the mirrors on ignition and closes them when I walk away and the car locks. I’ll be running wires through the door of course also. So much fun.