NH-503P-3 : 1992 Accord EX

[NH-503P-3]

I went through all of that when did the pfm’s on an is300 Lexus. I did grab extra mirror harnesses from each side for the extra pins. Pfm’s with heat might just fill the whole damn plug up. Aren’t they like 8 pins total. Don’t you only have to run one wire into and across the car to the other mirror for signal? How many wires do CB pfm’s actually add? Besides the standard mirror adjustment functions.

[Raf99]

I went through all of that when did the pfm’s on an is300 Lexus. I did grab extra mirror harnesses from each side for the extra pins. Pfm’s with heat might just fill the whole damn plug up. Aren’t they like 8 pins total. Don’t you only have to run one wire into and across the car to the other mirror for signal? How many wires do CB pfm’s actually add? Besides the standard mirror adjustment functions.

They are 6 pin connectors with 3 extra wires needed.

[excalibur02]

Loving the little mods in the interior. Reminds me of my red cb. Keep up the mods!

[Jarrett]

This is how I wired my mirrors to have the PFM function and the heated lenses. The Blue/Red and Black/White were what I chose to be the positive and negative for the lenses. The diagram represents the view of each connector if you were looking at it from the the back side where you would insert the individual pins.

[NH-503P-3]

Damn Jarrett, nice! Just in time as I scored a pair of CD Accord pfm’s today. I plan to use an Alps Korea switch also. Would that be the EP3 plug below that I see? I figure I can yank the motors & other parts from the CD housings and slap it all in my CB housings. Then I don’t have to paint them either. Well maybe mine look like shit but at least they aren’t all scraped up or cracked.
Now also; if the heated mirrors have one ground and I’m pretty sure the pfm’s have one too? Can’t these two or one at least be grounded to each door so I’m not running them into the car?
I figure I’ve got two wires on each door that I already have going into the car that are free for me to use. Those are my factory front speaker wires.
I can connect one (right front) for the signal lead that will obviously run straight to where it ends behind the stereo and connect that with the (left front) wire going to the passenger side. Then up to the passenger side pfm. The other (right front) and (left front) wires can connect to the positive for the heated mirrors and run to the defroster power. The rest of the wires should all go to the Alps switch right?

[NH-503P-3]

You know what would be killer also. I need to figure out a way to wire the mirror open signal to my ignition so when I start my car they open up. Then another signal running to my alarm setup to where they fold in when the car gets the signal to lock and arm.

[Jarrett]

You know what would be killer also. I need to figure out a way to wire the mirror open signal to my ignition so when I start my car they open up. Then another signal running to my alarm setup to where they fold in when the car gets the signal to lock and arm.

That would be pretty cool. Even my new King Ranch doesn't have that feature, though I think it's something you can add in the factory software.

Here are a few pictures of what I did to get mine to work. I'll caption them as best I can, but it's been a few years since I did this.

One of the first things to consider is the issue of lens mounting. Depending on the method your CD power-folding mirror motors use to mount the mirror, you may have to swap to a lens-frame that fits. Here are the two different back frames between power-folding CB mirrors and non power-folding 3.2TL mirrors. The difference doesn't seem to accommodate anything that the PFM motor needs, so it could be the case that it's just a revised design that is not specific to the PFM mirrors. I suppose the only way to know is to open up more mirrors. Anyhow, to be compatible with my folding motors I had to swap the frames.




Here's an individual picture of the TL frames.




And here are the 3.2TL heated lenses installed in the CB frames.




I just heated them up in an oven...




...then pried them apart...




...to reveal the bare lenses.




At which point I did the same thing for the CB lenses so that I could install the TL lenses into the CB frames. I have a bunch more of the whole power-folding mirror process, but I don't want to clutter your thread.

[NH-503P-3]

Well I got my jumper harness completed for the bb6 cluster and while most of it works my tach and fuel gauge don’t work idk maybe more stuff doesn’t work I didn’t try to drive the car with shit hangin all over. On the tach I am 100% sure it’s hooked up right and I even bypassed the jumper wire straight to my harness and it still does not work. I plug my stock cluster in and it works so I know its not my harness. I’m going to open up the bb6 cluster and take a look at the tach. I haven’t struck out in a while with my electrical diys so this bums me out. Plus all of the work taking the dash apart and then putting it back together lol.
The pfm’s should be allot easier. Thanks Jarrett for the extra info. I’ll know what I’m in for here soon when the CD mirrors arrive.

[Jarrett]

I'm tempted to buy some UA1/UA2 Inspire/Saber mirrors to see what they look like inside. The connectors are different from the CB/CD as they've moved to a 2-connector format on either side. They also only have a total of 5 wires each side. This means that they are either lacking the heat function or the power-folding function. The JDM CC2 Vigor mirror looks nearly identical, and I can clearly see a power-folding mirror button on their dash, so maybe they just did away with the heat function over there that the '96-'98 3.2TL had standard (only Premium cars had them in the 2.5TL).

I know you've already moved on to CD mirrors, but it got me thinking about the viability of the Inspire/Saber (our TL) mirrors to use to just swap over to US bases with no mods at all. Apparently you just can't get all of the features that way.

Have you already purchased your mirror switch?

[NH-503P-3]

I was thinking about that also with the Jdm TL pfm’s. I’ll bet they don’t come with heat or it’s more rare there. It’s like they’re just another Honda over there and here they are an Acura. The upscale of the Honda’s with more luxurious goodies.

[NH-503P-3]

I haven’t bought the switch yet. I’m making sure this switch on eBay is the one I need. The relays are expensive combined with buying a switch is another $100 or more. So I figured an Alps Korea one would be the better way to go.

[Jarrett]

I just quickly glanced through the ones on eBay. There are a few ALPS switches posted, but none are illuminated, from what I saw. The non-illuminated switches work the exact same, but the lettering is screened on and comes off over time. The illuminated switches are molded in clear plastic, so the letters hold up very well. It looks like you may have to go to Yahoo Japan auctions for one of those. They had some for just a couple dollars yesterday. But you have to go through a broker.

[NH-503P-3]

I might just have to settle for a standard Alps Korea switch. The mirrors will be here by like next week so I would like to get one other electrical diy knocked off of my list by then. Either the map/homelink or the damn cluster. I’ve got the m/h light wired up & ready to install also.

[NH-503P-3]

Well I took apart my headliner once again to get the TSX map/homelink installed. I was going to do a diy on this but what I had to do to get it in I do not recommend for most. If you don’t have a sunroof it’s doable I guess. But I had to slightly notch the sunroof frame for it to fit. Once I knew I had cut into the drain of the sunroof I needed to seal it on each side. I siliconed the shit out of it and put all around some leak proof tape I found in the garage. My other excuses I made to myself were; that I live in SoCal. and that I don’t drive this car on rainy days anyways. I got a 4wd truck for inclement weather. Plus if it’s parked outside it’s covered. So fuck it. The thing looks totally sick also.
Here are some pics:
This is the back of the headliner with the hole cut and some of the wiring. If you have a sunroof you can see that there is a metal clip holder centered under the hole that I thought about cutting down further into it at first. It would make more room at the front for the map light. BUT, that would cause me to have to really put a worse gash in the sunroof frame for it to fit. The red wires are cut from an Acura CL to have the power for driver and passenger illuminated vanity mirror lights plus a splice for the ambient light.



Here it is when I was test fitting it in. Needs a Little more adjusting.



Here it is all installed. I need to get some led bulbs for the map lights. Everything works as it should plus the blue ambient light is really nice. It comes on as soon as the parking lights are turned on and is adjustable with the dimmer switch.

[hiptech]

You did a great job.. I'll admit it. I'm officially intimidated.

It appears that the headliner is more cumbersome than complicated. Apparently there is enough flexibility to remove it without creasing which is good.

Years ago I would have taken the plunge but today it just seems like too much work. My fear is something would either tear or break and I'd be kicking myself for trying.

Thanks for sharing this... You did a great job!