NH-503P-3 : 1992 Accord EX

[NH-503P-3]

This weekend I got some more of my favorite stuff done. Wiring!!
There is plenty of prep work before adding a new home built fog light harness and DRL module setup. One thing that anyone wishing to add different upgrades to their CB’s can do is maximize the use of their under hood fuse box. Heated seats, power for the seats, DRL and fogs can all be done cleanly with fuses from the under hood fuse box.
They way I’m using it is as follows on the modified u/h fuse box key label below. Now all of my fuses have a good use for them. This was originally an SE u/h fuse cover.



There are 5 plugs going into the bottom of the u/h fuse box



16 pin plug C253:
1&2 on the 16 pin harness are for nothing.
Pin #15 is constant power from fuse #21
I'll use it for fog lights.

10 pin plug C252:
Pin #1 is constant power from fuse #26 (seat height) on LX & EX.

Pin #3 is high beam off.

Pin #4 is high beam on.
I'm assuming this as it runs to pin #8 on the 8 pin plug. Both pin #3 and #4 are inputs mainly for use with the DRL module.

8 pin plug C254:
Pin #5 is constant power from the headlight relay. Not sure what it’s original use is but good for something relating to lighting.

7 pin plug C251:
Pin #6 is constant power from fuse #16 (seat recline) on LX & EX.
Don't ask me why it's in this plug. But that's where I traced it and it’s correct lol.

2 pin plug C255:
Pin #1 is for Bose System on SE or can be used for heated seats in a non SE.

Pin #2 is for (running light) i.e. DRL.

[NH-503P-3]

Now that all of the empty pin ports are explained on these five plugs it’s time to put a few to good use. Note: some of you EX guys might not have plug C255, the two pin plug. Grab it out of a DX,LX or CD Accord and heated seat equipped CL coupes have them also. I cut out a set of u/h fuse box plugs to get the extra pins to add to the plugs that needed them. So.... 8 pins in all. I decided to make these 8 wires run to my own plug just under the other plugs to the u/h fuse box kinda like the factory fog light harness sits but of course not piggy backed. Here is the 8 pin plug I used. It’s from an extra inner tail light harness I had laying around. Had the right size wires too. I attached the 2 pin c255 plug to it before I went to the car and started soldering the rest.



Here it is installed with the other 6 wires attached.



I built an 8 wire harness for the other side of the plug that comes from the drivers side through under the center and out through where the standard fog light harness opening is on the passenger side under the dash. It runs up to the new plug below the u/h fuse box.



One wire goes to my heated seat wiring already installed. There are two that I ran to my Acura CL power/heated seats for the height and recline. The height and recline functions (2 separate wires on the CL seat plug) were previously wired together then ran up to the constant power port on the under dash fuse box. Now they are wired correctly and using the proper fuses from the u/h fuse box. Below is the 2 wires coming up to the CL seat plug. I soldered them together and reinstalled the seat.



The other five wires are tucked away for now under the dash. They will be used for the fog and DRL control soon to come.

[NH-503P-3]

I got the black SE door panels done last weekend. I’m very pleased with the way they turned out. They are incredibly nice panels. A one of a kind set too!
Big thanks to Fleetwood for the speaker cover plastics needed to finish these.

[Jarrett]

Seeing those door panels just makes me upset that there was never a black interior in an SE coupe.

[NH-503P-3]

If they made a 92-93 black interior SE coupe I don’t think I would have stopped looking until I found one to buy and build. My coupe is a hybrid EX/SE and comes close. Dark gray close lol.
From what I’ve seen so far. There very well could be a few dealer ordered black leather EX coupes out there. No SE of course. But hey, close enough.

[NH-503P-3]

Well I did score a “mitsuba” DRL control module. Got it today. I only paid $25 for it too. Pretty rare to find em this cheap. I checked the inside board and it all looks good.
Now it did not come with a pigtail. I got the plug and pins for the wiring from two 94-97 CD Accord power door lock modules. The one inside the driver door. It’s got the right plug and I cut two of them to have the right size wire going into the correct pins. Most of the DRL control modules wiring is larger because you’re tapping into the headlights wiring. Better to just keep it all the same. Below is the DRL control module and wiring harness I built. I literally cut the wiring out of a CB at pap to get the right color wiring running to the lights.



The one tough part about doing this DRL retrofit is that you need to splice into the right and left headlight high beam wires. Not complicated but more tedious than the rest of the wires which are basically connecting them to the right spots.

Ok now for the fog lights. I’m going to use a DC2 switch that fits in the center console. Here it is below.



The blue wire is power in. This will come from the under dash fuse box accessory port #2 for (parking lights).

The red/yel wire is power out. That goes to no. 1 on the MDX micro relay I’m using.

The black is ground. Self explanatory.

The other two, red/blk and red are for the DC2 switches own illumination.

The relay goes as follows:
1-red/yel wire from the DC integra switch.
2-negative from fog light wire on the MDX combo switch
3-Comes from fuse#21, pin 15 on the under hood fuse box
5-will run to the fog lights themselves.

In case some don’t know, micro relays mostly have a 1 through 5 numbering on them for each pin. Most standard relays are 85, 86, 87, 87a, and 30. The cross reference should be as follows:

1=86
2=85
3=30
4=87a
5=87

Most standard “make & break” relays have no 4 or 87a pin. The MDX fog light relay is a simple make & break type.

Stay tuned, more to come!

[NH-503P-3]

Today was interesting. I had to strip out this Solaris SE today. It was so smashed I had to pry the doors open to get into the car and pull out the interior pieces.



I scored this optional tall console from a clean Mulberry red CB9 wagon. Total bummer to see a good wagon go to pap. If anybody needs a 92-93 Type-B gray console hit me up. I already have one in my car. This one is in very good shape too.



I wired up the DC integra fog light switch to the MDX relay. It came out nice. Everything works as it should. Once the automatic headlights come on, as long as the fog button is pushed the fogs will come on with the auto headlights also. Just like a newer vehicle.



Since I had the shifter console out I swapped the junky cup holder piece over to the DX piece. I love it. There’s so much more room with this pocket.



Here is the final version of the fog light wiring diagram:

[Raf99]

lol... i wish i lived near you. When i bring out a whiteboard and marker with guys that help me work on the car they get that 'deer in the headlights look'...

[NH-503P-3]

My lil white board is incredibly handy. If I lived near you I would be hoping for use of the whiteboard lol.

[NH-503P-3]

Oh and I had wanted to use the constant, pin #5 on plug C254 from the headlight relay but That would just keep the fogs on all of the time when the button is pushed. Headlight selections wouldn’t matter. What that pin #5 is for is rear fog light. Rear fog light should com on when its button is pushed and not changed by any other functions. Simple.

[NH-503P-3]

This week I used some of my vacation time to get more wiring done. Yup, more. Anyways after two long days of building, connecting, plugging and testing I got it done and working perfectly. I wish I could post the video. It’s phenomenal to see on a 90’s car, that never came like this, operate much like a 2018 Accord would.



First thing I did was undo the custom plug I first made under the u/h fuse box. Then I pulled it out and turned it backwards. The 8 pin plug I de-pinned and made a double 6 pin plug harness. One 6 pin for the 6 wires used for part of the the DRL. And the other 6 pin plug was for the other goodies; power seats, fog lights etc.
So after all of that. What I have is fully functional and OE Honda parts built automatic headlights/fogs and DRL. Everything works just like OE. Basically because it is OE.



When the car is started and the e-brake is released the DRLs come on. As the sunlight of the day fades away the automatic headlights switch as well as the fogs turning off the DRLs.

['93CB7Ex]

thats awesome man

[Chrisnick]

You are my junkyard mods hero.

Wiring scares me otherwise I would do a lot more of stuff like what you've done. Just incredible work! I love mods that no one will ever notice, very OEM+ type stuff.

[NH-503P-3]

Along with the electrical craziness I’ve been working on, I’ve been getting my brake upgrade in order. I got the rotors, braided brake lines, brake pads, etc.
The rear rotor on top: Acura Integra type-R rotor. Below that is the front: 350z w/Brembo pkg 13” rotor.



I’m going to run these TL wheels. I found a set of nice Honda center caps to go on them also.



I need to get two more tires for the TL wheels I have so for this weekend I got the rear right and left sides done. I cannot do the front yet because the RL calipers require at least a 17” wheel.



More to come!

['93CB7Ex]

rl brakes will fit behind the tl wheels. i had the 5 spoke wheels on my cl long ago with rl brakes.