fleetw00d: 1993 Accord SE

[Fleetw00d]

Haven't had a lot of time to work on this one. I had it running as described earlier, but once it got warm, at least one valve started to stick. Finally pulled the valve cover off the other day and the top end of two exhaust valves didn't line up well with the screw on the rocker arm. I was able to "nudge" them back into the correct position and have had no further issue with sticking.

Still have to work on hard starting: it cranks fine, but only randomly fires, it takes several attempts of extended cranking to finally get it started. Once running, it runs fine.

Also installed new front rotors, outer tie rods, and muffler. With the new muffler it is obvious there is also a hole in the B pipe, so I'll have to get one of those.

Visited an Acura dealer; they were able to provide me with wiring diagrams for the CL seats so when I get to the interior I'll have to run some wires for the driver seat.

[Rilas]

fleetww00d can you provide the diagrams by chance? I haven't been able to find a reliable set on the internet yet, and we don't have an Acura dealer in think in the entire state. I could be wrong but it's not in a reasonably drivable distance.

[Fleetw00d]

Rilas, yeah, I'll post the wiring diagrams.

Fuel pressure is in the mid 40's (new fuel filter, installed known good pressure regulator), warm idle is correct near 700 (cleaned IACV), fast idle at start is about 1700 (rebuilt FITV with new seals), start boost valve appears to work correctly, timing is correct, new plugs (as I said, runs fine once it does start). It seems that every time I start it, it does so a little easier. I'm beginning to think it was sitting longer than the previous owner admitted and the fuel in it was pretty bad. I have only added a few gallons of fuel while messing with it and have probably run it less than an hour total. Maybe a few more gallons of good gas and a bottle of fuel system cleaner.

Finally put the timing covers back on - man, what a pain in the neck.

Jan.23: Here's what came out of it:



Custom contoured driver seat:



After OxyClean and power wash, better, but still kinda ugly. 3/4 set of SE floor mats may help.



Jan. 28: Reinstalled the carpet and CL seats with wiring for the seat. Masking is because I still want to touch up the leather color. Left the console out because I'm still dealing with the sound system.



Jan. 30: I hate exhaust work. Dropped the B pipe; had trouble with the cat to B pipe nuts; the flex pipe looked relatively new so I figured I'd drop the cat and pipe, then work on it without having to lie on my back. Flex pipe to cat nuts came off OK, but two of three of the cat to B pipe studs broke, the third nut stripped even using a stripped nut remover. Looks like I'll have to cut it off and replace all three studs.

Jan. 31: Cut the B pipe off the cat to get better access to the stripped nut, then I looked inside - it had been gutted. I may just put a shorter LX cat (that I have already) on it and hope the B pipe doesn't hit the shields. I wonder if I can "unbend" the B pipe some so the muffler flange is still at the correct position. Also picked up a decal eraser to remove the remains of the pinstriping; gotta be patient, but it works pretty well. Brake cleaner removes the last of the adhesive residue, then used some SwirlX to clean up the paint.

Feb. 4: Removed the rest of the maroon pin striping and applied charcoal metallic stripe to match the window tint. I tried to match the OEM bend up at the rear quarter windows, but had a lot of difficulty trying to bend the tape consistently and keeping the stripes equally spaced; had to go with plan B: terminate the door level stripe with a taper a few inches behind the window then start a new stripe at the top of the quarter where the original stripe was.





Mocked up the B pipe and the LX cat - too close to the shield and had to pull the muffler too far forward. I talked to a muffler shop about unbending it; they wanted to cut it and put in a spacer. I decided to try to lengthen it myself. I anchored one end to Ruby with a tow strap; the other end to the van with a come-along. I measured the overall length, then pulled until I had lengthened it about 2 inches (loaded); when I released the tension, it sprang back to about 1.5 inches. While under tension, I used a propane torch on the inside of the bends to try to help it relax; I'm not sure how much that helped (about 30 degrees outside). When I mocked it up again, it was obvious that the first bend had unbent more, so the alignment of the aft end of the pipe wasn't right. I put my cheater bar pipe in the receiver of my trailer hitch, then the short end of the B pipe over that and I was able to bend that section to be parallel with the forward section of the pipe. It mated up to the muffler flange without having to push/pull either one and doesn't hit the shields.

[Grumpys93]

that carpet was disgusting, I think it turned out 99% better! Never thought to use oxyclean. I may try that when I clean my carpet. What ratio did you use?

[Fleetw00d]

that carpet was disgusting, I think it turned out 99% better! Never thought to use oxyclean. I may try that when I clean my carpet. What ratio did you use?

I used about 1/2 scoop (maybe more) to 2 gallons of hot water. I poured maybe a quart at a time into each foot well then used a scrub brush to move it around and work it into the carpet. Then repeated with more in each footwell as needed. Then I hung it from the 2x2 on a step ladder and worked my way from top to bottom with a power washer until the water coming off of it looked clean. Even that really wasn't enough. After it dried, I went back over some of the uglier spots by spraying with brake cleaner then rubbing with a clean rag; I still got a fair amount of dirt on the rag. I asked a couple carpet cleaning services if they would do it, but I think $80 was the lowest minimum charge and I didn't want to pay that.

[hiptech]

Rilas, yeah, I'll post the wiring diagrams.

Fuel pressure is in the mid 40's (new fuel filter, installed known good pressure regulator), warm idle is correct near 700 (cleaned IACV), fast idle at start is about 1700 (rebuilt FITV with new seals), start boost valve appears to work correctly, timing is correct, new plugs (as I said, runs fine once it does start). It seems that every time I start it, it does so a little easier. I'm beginning to think it was sitting longer than the previous owner admitted and the fuel in it was pretty bad. I have only added a few gallons of fuel while messing with it and have probably run it less than an hour total. Maybe a few more gallons of good gas and a bottle of fuel system cleaner.

Finally put the timing covers back on - man, what a pain in the neck.

Jan.23: Here's what came out of it:



Custom contoured driver seat:



After OxyClean and power wash, better, but still kinda ugly. 3/4 set of SE floor mats may help.



Jan. 28: Reinstalled the carpet and CL seats with wiring for the seat. Masking is because I still want to touch up the leather color. Left the console out because I'm still dealing with the sound system.



Jan. 30: I hate exhaust work. Dropped the B pipe; had trouble with the cat to B pipe nuts; the flex pipe looked relatively new so I figured I'd drop the cat and pipe, then work on it without having to lie on my back. Flex pipe to cat nuts came off OK, but two of three of the cat to B pipe studs broke, the third nut stripped even using a stripped nut remover. Looks like I'll have to cut it off and replace all three studs.

Jan. 31: Cut the B pipe off the cat to get better access to the stripped nut, then I looked inside - it had been gutted. I may just put a shorter LX cat (that I have already) on it and hope the B pipe doesn't hit the shields. I wonder if I can "unbend" the B pipe some so the muffler flange is still at the correct position. Also picked up a decal eraser to remove the remains of the pinstriping; gotta be patient, but it works pretty well. Brake cleaner removes the last of the adhesive residue, then used some SwirlX to clean up the paint.

Feb. 4: Removed the rest of the maroon pin striping and applied charcoal metallic stripe to match the window tint. I tried to match the OEM bend up at the rear quarter windows, but had a lot of difficulty trying to bend the tape consistently and keeping the stripes equally spaced; had to go with plan B: terminate the door level stripe with a taper a few inches behind the window then start a new stripe at the top of the quarter where the original stripe was.





Mocked up the B pipe and the LX cat - too close to the shield and had to pull the muffler too far forward. I talked to a muffler shop about unbending it; they wanted to cut it and put in a spacer. I decided to try to lengthen it myself. I anchored one end to Ruby with a tow strap; the other end to the van with a come-along. I measured the overall length, then pulled until I had lengthened it about 2 inches (loaded); when I released the tension, it sprang back to about 1.5 inches. While under tension, I used a propane torch on the inside of the bends to try to help it relax; I'm not sure how much that helped (about 30 degrees outside). When I mocked it up again, it was obvious that the first bend had unbent more, so the alignment of the aft end of the pipe wasn't right. I put my cheater bar pipe in the receiver of my trailer hitch, then the short end of the B pipe over that and I was able to bend that section to be parallel with the forward section of the pipe. It mated up to the muffler flange without having to push/pull either one and doesn't hit the shields.

I gotta say my hat's off to you man, you are one talented, determined and resourceful guy!

[Fleetw00d]

I ordered two different colors of leather spray to try to touch up the seats; one was too light (bone), the other too brown (bark). Anyone need some leather vinyl spray? I'm just going to go over them with some leather conditioner to try to soften them up some.

I gave up on trying to keep the Bose amp and speakers; three amps I had access to didn't work. I put better speakers in the 92 EX (Rose) and took the OEM speakers to install in the SE. Fashioned a harness to bypass the amp to wire the speakers directly to the OEM radio with the existing wiring so now it has sound. Recovered the front speaker grilles while I had the panels off.

Had the tires removed from the wheels; need to start cleaning them up.

[Accrdwgnguy]

Have you tried the Woolite treatment for leather seats? You basically mix Woolite delicates (little white bottle with a pink cap, kinda hard to find) with water in a spray bottle and use it with a cloth to wipe the dirt off the seats. Worked pretty good in my Suburban to clean the dirt off the light gray leather. That truck had spent the last 15 years on a horse farm hauling horses and livestock around so the leather was pretty dirty.

[Fleetw00d]

Got three of the four wheels cleaned up. I tried chemical stripping the worst one, but that wouldn't take off all the paint; had to take that one to a shop that will blast if off. The paint on the other three could be sanded in spots. I used the car as a lathe to spin the wheels while I progressively sanded then polished the outer rim. Then painted the spokes. Before and after photos.



Freed up, cleaned the rear brakes; one of each of the caliper pins didn't move in the bracket.

Looking better; still going to try to paint at least the top portions of both bumpers:



Local craigslist ad has a 93 coupe being parted out; gotta get over there to see what he's got. Sounds like it was hit hard in the left rear (wheel pushed forward into the rocker). I need a right side mirror (the one on the car is from a sedan); I've even toyed with the idea of putting Rosewood mirrors on if I could find a set to see how they look with the tinted windows. Anyone else need coupe parts in the OH, IN, KY area - I'm thinking about buying the whole car: Seattle Silver LX coupe, maroon interior, 237k

Got the fourth wheel back from sandblasting, polished center and lip, painted spokes, had tire mounted, installed on car.

4/2/2017: The parts car was hit while parked on the street, made a complete mess of the driver quarter, but didn't touch the trunk lid. Gonna buy the whole thing for $300. Good front bumper, LF fender, hood, doors (including very good door seals I'll use on the SE), all lights except LR outer. Engine runs well enough, 5 speed, new front controls arms, springs & shocks, axles. I'll get it home, strip it down, and ditch the shell. Let me know what you need!

4/3/2017: Power washed the trunk carpet and one side panel. Trouble shooting a code 43, lots of oil in the O2 sensor connector and the C210 engine harness connector (just that one ). Cleaned 'em, but didn't get a chance to drive it. Did a backyard alignment. I used two carpenter's squares clamped to my 8 foot straightedge to get zero toe as best I could with the steering wheel straight ahead.

4/4/2017: The steering wheel wasn't straight ahead when driving straight down the road, adjusted both tie rods an equal amount to better center the wheel. Still get code 43; I may buy a new O2 sensor for Ruby or Rose and put the old one in the SE. Touch up paint arrived - time to work on the bumpers.

4/10/2017: Put a new NTK 02 sensor in Rose (92 EX), put the used sensor in the SE, solved the code 43. Brought a parts car home Saturday (92 LX coupe 5 speed), installed the door seals and trim over the driver side door and window. Unfortunately, the nut plate assemblies for the quarter windows are fragile and no longer available from Honda.

5/27/2017: Swapped the door seals from the parts car - the one's on the SE were chewed up like someone was trying to break into the car. Swapped some of the chrome trim (also dented from someone trying to break in). Unfortunately, the nut plates for the quarter window broke. Salvaged one from the parts car. Did a nationwide search for Honda dealers with the part - I bought everything I could find and having it shipped to me. I may take one someplace and have it duplicated by 3D printing. Replaced the front shocks/springs with the relatively new set from the parts car. Replaced a torn inner tie rod boot; then had it aligned. Replaced the stub antenna (the lead was spliced); reception has improved considerably. Charged the AC; seems to be slow leak somewhere; hoping the leak sealer in the R134 works.

6/2/2017: Finally polished the windshield to remove the wiper marks, took a couple hours total; now I can see at night and driving into the sun.

[Fleetw00d]

Sold 6/24/2017