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Good luck.. What kind of times are you hoping to run?
Thank you bud, that means a ton coming from you.
Well, a little analysis here:
Your 13.9 @ 100mph setup (as far as I know):
F23 Block
F22 Head with Bisi Level 2 cam, Bisi springs, OEM everything else
Ports milled .020" (I think)?
S300 V.2 Tuned
H2A5 Trans.
fidanza 9lb + Exedy stage 1
ATI Super Damper
Skunk 2 H22 IM
Hondata Gaskets
H23A VTEC TB 70>64mm
AEM FPR
93 Octane
AEM V2 Intake
Bisi 4-1 Header
K-Teller 2.5" piping
Vibrant Resonator
Varex Muffler (fully open?)
Monroe Struts + Tien Sport Springs + SPC Camber Kit
New OEM Mounts
Nitto Drag Radials 255/50R15 (size?)
PS Removed
Anything other performance modifications I'm missing?
My setup for the first track visit at the end of January
F22 Block
F22 head with Bisi Level 2 Cam, Bisi Springs, Bisi Std. Valves, OEM all else
No Porting
S300 V.3 Tuned
Synchrotech M2Y4 + Carbon Synchros, M-Factory Helical LSD, Accord 5th
ACT Streetlite 12.6lb + Exedy 4 puck stage 2
H23A1 IM with double stacked IAB plates - non functioning IABs.
Bisi Heat Shielding IM Gasket
H23A1 60mm TB
AEM 320lph Fuel Pump, Fuel Rail, Adjustable FPR
91 Octane
Generic Pipe and Apexi Filter (At strip, minus filter add ram air + Vel. stack)
DC 4-2-1 Header
Magnaflow 2.25" full catback
Fortnue Auto Coilovers + Swift Springs + SPC Camber Kit
80A Poly Filled Driver and Rear Mount + Solid front torque mount.
Mickey Thompson E.T. Street Radials 225/50R15
All interior panels, carpets, rear seats, pass. seat, AC, Cruise removed.
I don't know, man. I so badly want my tranny, mounts, suspension, and tires to make up for the lack of air flow potential this build has so that I can see a 13.99 @ 95+mph. In order to do that, I will need better 60' times and faster shifts. I'm expecting mid to low 14s at 90+mph.
Woah, that was such a trip! Someone rescued post 288 for me after I deleted it. I tried to get links from Photobucket's Andriod app to work, but they are htmls, not jpegs. When rescuing it, someone used an earlier picture of the bay I took at night. Wow.
Well, I updated it now that I have Photobucket access.
Well, let's see what I can remember from the phone call that I didn't already know wasn't set up right.
Timing belt is off a tooth
All belts are loose
Balance shafts are out of alignment
Power steering fluid is low
A tensioner is missing a washer
Tensioners not set up properly
Valve adjustment needs to be redone
Cam gear and belt are hitting the cover
Coolant leak from the thermostat housing
Break lines are routed incorrectly
Break feel is almost nonexistent
The calipers are leaking
Some intake vacuum hoses must be replaced
The ECT was badly wired
Wideband sensor wiring is kinked and must be re-routed
Distributor cap and rotor need replacement
It was overwhelming, so much embarrassment.
I was nervous for a reason throughout this build: I don't know what I'm doing.
All the more reason I am so glad the professionals have the car now.
^^^ x2. Building is learned through mistakes most of the time. You're car is gonna be boss if you keep at it, man. See if you can help out the dudes fixing the slip-ups so you can see how to do it and learn hands on!
The part I can't shake or justify is the fact that I hired someone I knew so little about (replaced my landlord's D series head gasket) to come put the head on and do the timing while I did other things (prep the rubber seals). The first red flag was this, as he says to his dad/sidekick "Man...I want to get this done today, I need the money." Look where most of the problems lie. Most of the other problems are associated with people I had come help me when I was in a hurry to get this car together so I could move it to my new place. Almost everything I did either by myself or with my fiance, at a slow pace, seems to have passed the diagnostic inspection at Blacktrax.
Errrrrr! It just goes to show you that you are far better off fixing and setting up your own car, up to a point where you know you are over your head. At that point, call on well documented and trusted professionals that you know personally!
I guess this was coming for me, coming to hit me on my head until I learned my lesson.
So, are they fixing it or you? Either way, I can't wait to see the results. Keep it up.
Oh yes. I wouldn't have it any other way, since there's no turning back now. You know you've made a good relationship with a shop when the owner hangs out with you after you drop the car off to hear your build story and genuinely want to see the project running perfectly. Anthony prepped me for their thoroughness, although it was still a shock.
They will be calling back today with more updates.
Well, let's see what I can remember from the phone call that I didn't already know wasn't set up right.
Timing belt is off a tooth
All belts are loose
Balance shafts are out of alignment Power steering fluid is low
A tensioner is missing a washer
Tensioners not set up properly
Valve adjustment needs to be redone
Cam gear and belt are hitting the cover
Coolant leak from the thermostat housing
Break lines are routed incorrectly
Break feel is almost nonexistent
The calipers are leaking
Some intake vacuum hoses must be replaced
The ECT was badly wired
Wideband sensor wiring is kinked and must be re-routed
Distributor cap and rotor need replacement
It was overwhelming, so much embarrassment.
I was nervous for a reason throughout this build: I don't know what I'm doing.
All the more reason I am so glad the professionals have the car now.
why do you still have poswer steering on your car? i would of fiured that it would of been deleted when the interior was ditched lol.
i've been thinking of doing something like this with my 2 brothers but no funds to support it. so far i'm liking what i'm seeing, keep it up
I know, I know. I've gone back and forth on the manual rack conversion/loop line/leave PS in.
1. The manual rack conversion is a ton of work (seems like a fuel pump replacement is easier), but a decent amount of weight savings in the front. Most say this is a much better situation than the fatigue that results from looping lines. One member, however, complained of play in the steering after the conversion.
2. Looping lines seems farily straightforward, but most people, after they get used to it, say it wears on them after a while, and want to switch back to full PS.
3. Keeping things the way they are makes things easy to drive, but generates a little parasitic loss, and looks grotesque in the engine bay.
In all honesty, I am leaning towards a manual rack conversion, combined with an ATi Super Damper install at the same time. That combination should make a difference in rotational inertia at the crank.
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