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bassrock234 : 1990 Accord EX
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Fixed the speedo yesterday. Seems I missed a ground on the driver side when I did the wire tuck. Should be getting it insured again today with a tag on it and I can at least drive it around a bit more and break the clutch in.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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Nice man, Ive seen your build on S/W. Lol its like the only other (nice)CB on there I swear. Im diggin the swap Well done.Wrecked, Revived, and still Rollin'
Check out my MRT!
Originally posted by deevergoteThe most unique "modification" these days is a full restoration. Take a 20+ year old Honda and make it look brand new... and it'll be more impressive than the guy with the stock-block turbo and plastidipped steelies.
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Thanks guys. There's a few nice cb's on s/w. They are also members here but don't post a whole lot. I got my car insured and registered today so she's officially street legal again. Filled it up with premium and drove it about 20 miles no issues. That's about 40 miles on it since the swap was completed.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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Nice.
I'm jealous of the lack of smog/swap laws in your state.
I read earlier in the thread that you still have suspension travel even as low as you are currently. How much, though? I had Progress springs and kyb shocks on my last cb and was considering going with coilovers this time for more drop, but i want enough shock travel to drive everyday without the uca's hitting the shock towers or bottoming out.
Is your car really that calm and collected on less than glass smooth roads?
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As far as shock travel goes it still has all the travel the coilovers would at max height. There was a big thread I started on that subject a while ago. ( see here http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=196107) When you plan to go low, it's important to buy coil overs with ride height and preload adjustments that are independent of each other. This way, you won't loose any shock travel or have to worry about your shocks bottoming out on themselves when you drop it.
On my car, my shock towers are cut out so the controls arms don't hit. The bottom side scrapes on the header and mudflaps, but not as much as you might think. The center crossmember that goes front to back under the oil pan used to scrape, but not anymore now that it's ground nice and flat. I've NEVER hit the oil pan, not even once. Then again, I avoid everything I can, and speed bumps are out of the question. It goes everywhere I need it to go, and I've never been stuck anywhere. Worst thing that's happened is I've fouled out an o2 sensor or two, just from the header hitting the ground.Last edited by bassrock234; 03-25-2014, 10:11 PM.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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234 miles on the car as of today. Had an issue a few days ago I lost power to everything. Figured out today the connection from the battery to the fuse box got broken somewhere. So i put the battery back up front with some temporary wiring until I can trace my other power wire to figure out where the break is. But so far so good.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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Originally posted by bassrock234 View PostAs far as shock travel goes it still has all the travel the coilovers would at max height. There was a big thread I started on that subject a while ago. ( see here http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=196107) When you plan to go low, it's important to buy coil overs with ride height and preload adjustments that are independent of each other. This way, you won't loose any shock travel or have to worry about your shocks bottoming out on themselves when you drop it.
On my car, my shock towers are cut out so the controls arms don't hit. The bottom side scrapes on the header and mudflaps, but not as much as you might think. The center crossmember that goes front to back under the oil pan used to scrape, but not anymore now that it's ground nice and flat. I've NEVER hit the oil pan, not even once. Then again, I avoid everything I can, and speed bumps are out of the question. It goes everywhere I need it to go, and I've never been stuck anywhere. Worst thing that's happened is I've fouled out an o2 sensor or two, just from the header hitting the ground.
Also, thanks for the input based off experience. I don't want to go quite as low as you because it's still my daily/family car, but now i know i can probably get close to fully down adjusted F&F's without sacrificing too much ride quality.
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Not that I've noticed. It actually handles quite well. I've lifted the front a little bit since the swap as it looked to me that the h22a sits lower than the f series but I didn't raise it much. Still rides great, handles great, and the tire wear is very moderate for how low it is. But I always make sure to keep it aligned. I have my buddy at the toyota/subaru dealer line it up for me. The adjoined lexus dealer has an in ground rack and he's a subaru master tech. He does a lot of alignments for scca guys and stuff so I trust his knowledge in keeping it straight and handling good while keeping tire wear to a minimum.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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Grabbed this off a Renault at the junkyard. Test fitted it on a cb at the junkyard and it looked like it'd fit great. Looked at it more when I got home and it wouldn't fit at all. So i cut it into 3 pieces and worked it on a belt sander for a couple hours. Looks like it's gonna come out pretty nice.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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Haven't had time to mess with the flushie anymore but I did pick up an aem wideband and I also contacted a shop about getting my exhaust put on. Waiting on the o2 bung for the wideband then I should hopefully be taking it to get the exhaust put on early next week.
I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.
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