marcusv8thunder : 1993 Accord 2.0i

[marcusv8thunder]

Looks clean! Black box as in the IAB? Or the black map sensor box?

How did you port the injector holes to fit the obd1 injectors?

The map sensor black box. Ive actually removed it from the stock location to fit my oil can tank. Ive induvidually relocated its contents below.

The ports on the injector side are them same. Same part number for the bottom orings. the part you are porting is the flange side top section where the injector nose is.

I used a dremel with the flexi pen like attachment, and the sanding sleeves. The diameter happens to be the same. You can buzz around in there without hitting the edges or flange face better with the flexi atachment.

[marcusv8thunder]

Managed to get some more time on this.

Here are the last of the progress pictures.

Last job was the fuel rail adpater. This tried to occupy the same space as the EGR cover plate. 2 tabs facing the engine needed to be filed off.


Also this middle section on the stock fuel rail needed flatting off.


RoskoRacing Fuel rail adapter mounted to the stock rail.


I dont yet have a picture of it all complete yet. But here is a shot of all the other bits done.


It is now complete. Not without few issues, once you have it all hooked up, you will need to adjust the throttle plate adjustment stop. I had 3 problems with the idle at first.

Initially it fire up to 1800rpm or so rock steady no issues. But my vac guage was telling me there was a problem, as it was idling at 14 (Normal idle is 17-22) I was thinking oh no its got to come all off again. Once it got hot, revs dropped to 1000rpm, but it began to idle hunt.

It was a leak on the viewing gauge on the oil catch tank, that got my vac gauge idle to 18.

Then the IACV wasnt playing ball, thought it was a leak also, turns out it doesnt like bubbles in the coolant, so I bled the system. That solved the inconsistent cold Idle rpms and random splutters/drops.

And finally the throttle plate screw, i pulled the plug on the IACV and used the throttle plate stop screw to get the idle down to 600rpm, then when replugged, it has a idle of 950rpm. This is perfect for me as i have poly filled front torque mount and the balancer belt deleted, at 950rpm no vibrations through the steering wheel or seats.

[Mike1357]

Are you planning on paying dyno results?

[marcusv8thunder]

Are you planning on paying dyno results?

Yes, but the issue I have is im running a stock P13. It is quite rich factory setting so its not going to be lean running the full exhuast system and intake. But I cant get a tune.

There will be no more power mods until I have upgraded the ECU setup.

I will still get a few dyno pulls on a hub dyno. There is a few places I can take it. It will tell me where I am at currently at least.

[marcusv8thunder]

This is showing the installed stock fuel rail and roskoracing fuel rail adapter


Bay is complete!


So I'm glad to say I have gone for a drive and its running perfectly! I will, like I said, get a proper dyno run sorted this will tell me where I am at now but not how this manifold has helped things.

But from the test drive and butt dyno, heres my findings!

So, low RPM sound has not really changed, but the bottom end torque has NOT been lost. It feels just the same as the the P13 manifold. Mid range slight tone change from before, but power is slightly up.

High RPM sound has changed tone quite a bit, no induction boom from 7000-8000rpm but much louder from vtec to the redline. Vtec kick is even more noticeable now, and the torque curve does not drop off after 6800. Biggest gains are without a doubt 5200-8000rpm, with the peak changes 6800-7500rpm. I would put money down on the fact the peak HP is now 7200rpm not the stock 6800rpm.

Although this mod is small scale, I am suprised how well the H22A has responded to it. I am pretty confident with my butt dyno skills, but I am very curious now to see the proof on the dyno.

Anyway the most important thing is fun factor, and its just an animal to drive.

PS- This is not a show bay lol, this is how it is, as I drive it Summer/Winter, no photoshop, straight real.

[apalileo]

Stellar work! I'm sure it's more fun at the top end now!

[marcusv8thunder]

Stellar work! I'm sure it's more fun at the top end now!

Yeah I have been using it regularly put couple 100 miles on it now runs fine now still.

Now to prep for the trackday season

[Mike1357]

Fantastic stuff. I'm even more eager to do this myself now!

[marcusv8thunder]

You should, most of the effort is in the prep. So down time of the car is small. The manifold can be worked on off the car on a bench somwhere.

I might do a DIY since its still fresh in my head.

I know there is one already, but this one would be "ATR manifold install on a H22a retaining full stock functionality"

[HenRoc]

Hey Marcus

I had heard about your EuroR mod using stock h22 injectors, how did you get the fuel hose to fit properly? Any chance you'll be doing that DIY article?

I have a euro r intake manifold that I'm going to be using soon and this would definitely help.

[cb9love]

I'm still hoping for some more track footage.

[marcusv8thunder]

Hey Marcus

I had heard about your EuroR mod using stock h22 injectors, how did you get the fuel hose to fit properly? Any chance you'll be doing that DIY article?

I have a euro r intake manifold that I'm going to be using soon and this would definitely help.

Yes the plan at the very start was to do a ATR/Euro R intake manifold swap, but keeping all the functionality and OEM of my original setup. Obviously goes without say I have lost the IABs but that is all.

Yes I still have every interest in doing the DIY. In fact I shall start it tonight, and finish it tomorrow.

[marcusv8thunder]

I'm still hoping for some more track footage.

Me too! The Accord is down for some bushings work, and in 2 weeks times it goes off to the paintshop. After that, I hope from May til winter I can just get in and drive it. No more bloody down time!

There is serious talk of another Nurburgring trip this year with my mates, so that would yield some track footage for you

[marcusv8thunder]

So, my time enjoying the new manifold swap got cut short, through a very odd accident. So the rear bumper top corner where is meets the rear arch has been sticking out, due to a rusty bumper bracket. I rushed past the car a while back and my pocket caught the bumper and ripped the bracket off.

Anyway I thought right thats it I need to get the this sorted. I had already acquired the new replacement rear arch panels, so I booked the Accord into the paintshop. I then proceeded to angle grind the rust back to where there is good metal, and uncover how bad it really is. Its not terrible but the bumper can not go back on. So the car is grounded until mid May til is gets both rear arches refreshed at the paintshop. I am excited for this since this was the most obvious eye sore on the bodywork.



Meanwhile I have go about installing some bushes.

So the trailing arm bush was getting tired, so I got hold of the Hardrace uprated rubber trailing arm bush. Got that in. And refresh the arm it self with new undercoat.





Also arrived today was these Hardrace uprated rubber radius rod bushes, which again the old were tired,
which was amplified due to the power increase of H22a swap.

[Mike1357]

I contemplated getting those trailing arm bushings myself. I'm curious to hear what differences in handling they make.