Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Must admit I have never put a head back together before. Things went well I think. No copper coating, once I got the head to drop all was good.

[CyborgGT]

I made the same mistake with the dust shield under the cam gears, haha. I bought copper spray for my head gasket, but didn't end up using it either. Sounds like it's not necessary on Hondas.

[Grumpys93]

Lol I think anyone who has torn apart an h22 has made that mistake with the cover! I am so jealous of y’all’s garages! I don’t have enough room in mine to have a work bench or a comfy chair.

[Raf99]

Ya, I do feel fortunate for this garage. It's my first and love it. The only other one I had was old, detached and had no heat.

........, Can't say I've ever took 6+ hours to install an engine before...... but meh.... too many things went wrong.

1. Couldn't get the engine to rotate properly on the lift. Kept wanting to sit at 90deg. to what I needed. (I think this is because I cut some of the chain link in the hook part and other issues)
2. I didn't get the rear of the trans below the front subframe... it was stuck on top of it with the side mounts in their spots. Really got me in a bind. Removed the trans moun
3. I was one person vs. two.
4. I didn't remove the hood.

But installed ...........





And of course... issues. I dropped this by accident.



IACV connector broke off.


Let's de-pin, fix, etc. Love finding and fixing these.






Trying to get the old brittle green rubber connector out which broke. So liquid electrical tape is perfect in here.



Watch the boring trials and errors of the H22 install via gopro timelapse. Should of just dumped it tranny first....

Next is....... ahh dam everything. + i have to re-do the whole power steering hose + cooler system. Oh, and find / order a harmonic balancer..... wonder if fleetwood has one

[SSMAccord]

Sucks about the crank pulley. Also, I hate when the wiring on those 2 pin connectors break off like that. I have never been able to depin one successfully.

But this looks like a step toward getting the CB back on the road.

[Raf99]

Thanks. Quite confused over the crank pully / harmonic balancer as some of them come with the rubber and some do not (online). So I ordered a 5th gen one which had the rubber in it from some guy on ebay. I hope it works out !

[Raf99]

Looking over photos to help me put this back together, came up on a 2017 photo of the engine bay. Back when I use to pop the hood and think having a turbo was all that. Now trying to improve more than the pic on the left. Tuck more, what to move... etc.
Always something to work on

[Grumpys93]

I can say your on the right track. Filling in the holes for the battery tray and getting rid of the seam sealer really made a difference. Speaking of which, what did you use to fill in the battery tray holes?

[Raf99]

I can say your on the right track. Filling in the holes for the battery tray and getting rid of the seam sealer really made a difference. Speaking of which, what did you use to fill in the battery tray holes?

All holes were welded shut. Body fill to flatten, sanded everything flat. The larger holes I cut out sheet metal and welded it in. I do wish I had gotten rid of the seam sealer on the fenders, but all good. Definitely glad I got rid of the holes on the top of the headlight assembly. There are holes there that have no use and never will. Not even sure why they are there to be honest. Made sure to mark the holes I needed which was minimal, and bob's your uncle.








I also always wanted to paint the engine bay a Acura black (with flake in it). But some of the areas in the bay are just impossible to get to like down in the corner by the clutch reservoir.

[SSMAccord]

You definitely did a lot of work to get to look so seamless.

[CyborgGT]

If the 5th gen (Accord or Prelude?) harmonic balancer doesn't work out, let me know. I don't need mine anymore; it shouldn't have more than about 60k miles on it since it's off an HMO engine, but I suppose the rubber's still old ('97 block).

[Raf99]

Thanks all. Appreciate it. Have to be honest in that I don't have faith in my work this time around. Not sure why. Still haven't started the car, only leaks i seen were from drain plugs that needed one extra tighten. (using old oil drain plug and coolant drain could use a new o-ring). I'm thinking I may have an issue with timing though. When I did the Aasco flywheel 2 years ago I didn't pay attention to lining up timing marks. I just slapped it on and didn't think of making some or transferring some. The difference now is that I had the distributor off. I had used a marker to make marks for the bottom bolt but they wore off. So all I have to go on is photos. I think i"m ok but Not sure how I'm going to set the timing on this engine now. The flywheel as no traditional markings either that you would use with a timing gun.
Besides this I need coolant, PS fluid, and a timing gun ( I think ). ....... and not sure if starting an engine without the harmonic balancer is a good idea either. May just wait for the one I ordered so I can charge the battery etc. I find S300 does not like having a low voltage, makes things go weird...

More timewarp

[CyborgGT]

Could you point the timing gun at your adjustable cam gears for the same reading? I see PFI Speed do that a lot. Just not sure if there's math necessary for a cam's degrees B/ATDC vs the crank's degrees, or if they're the same.

[Raf99]

I was reading too that if I put everything at TDC then you can make a mark in the new flywheel (or crank pulley). and then just use an adjustable timing light and off set it to 15deg. Right now I'm just going to use photos to line up the bolt the best I can.

[Raf99]

While we wait for the harmonic balancer (should be here tomorrow), I have to find a way to add a PS cooler to the setup.

The only spot I have (without cutting) is here:







With the grill on.



Just use a bracket on the backside. I'm not liking that I have to loop the lines back towards PS pump but it's the only way for now. I gave them lots of room.





While I like clean run lines, there's no point in crossing the belts area or going near them. So the line to the rack will stick to the block and come up on top of the alternator ....





Leaves lines un-organized and loose which I also do not like so this is a work in progress ..... I guess. But the lines coming from the rack combine into one line. Then to the PS cooler and to the reservoir. From the res to the pump. Pretty much the same setup as OEM so should work well. Just have to protect the lines properly. Thanks for viewing!