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I'm still confused. You can't fit your arms and tools up to the UCA to adjust something like this, can they?
What wildbill is trying to explain is the car is on a lift as you can see but under the lift is also a frame lift, it'll lift the car under the frame raising the car letting the suspension drop which then they can get a wrench in there to adjust, same as if you jack up your car and car goes up but the suspension drops...
What wildbill is trying to explain is the car is on a lift as you can see but under the lift is also a frame lift, it'll lift the car under the frame raising the car letting the suspension drop which then they can get a wrench in there to adjust, same as if you jack up your car and car goes up but the suspension drops...
I see. But wouldn't raising the car frame change the camber a little?
What the other guys are saying is right....I've actually watched the guys at the shop do this. You may not even need a rear camber kit though...I don't have mine installed but my rear wheels are as they should be. You'll definitely need to use a front set...but from your pics it looks like your CB sits about the same as mine does so you may not have to mess with the rear. Just sayin.
What the other guys are saying is right....I've actually watched the guys at the shop do this. You may not even need a rear camber kit though...I don't have mine installed but my rear wheels are as they should be. You'll definitely need to use a front set...but from your pics it looks like your CB sits about the same as mine does so you may not have to mess with the rear. Just sayin.
Cool cool. Ya, my fronts are toast, rears are almost toast after 2 summers. I probably don't NEED it on the rears, but i just bought new rubber so I may as well. I am 2.25" in the front and 2" in the rear. I found a good set of Ingals angled arms i'm going to get. $100 cheaper than the SPCs.
With rear arms my rear tires basically didnt wear at all. Not just no camber wear, but with the wider 205 or 215 tires on the back, and less weight than the front, they don't wear noticeably at all. Just rotate front to back frequently and you will basically have two new sets of front tires from one set of tires with rear camber arms. They pay for themselves. Zero or near zero camber may not be the best handling for corners, but getting 30k miles out of my hankooks from rotation and no rear tire wear made me really happy. If you swap tires left to right after a rotation to switch inner camber to outer camber wear, you can get even more miles.
Hondata! So I have to wonder... You have more in the works than just rust removal with the guage and ecu...
Btw, save a bit more, get the wicked tuning straight arms. Mine never hit or have any clearance issues. They have years, and about 50k miles of the roughest road any drop has ever seen and they are still holding strong. Imo they are actually beefier than the curved arms. Any car I drop in the future that they make arms for I will be using them.
Cool cool. Ya, my fronts are toast, rears are almost toast after 2 summers. I probably don't NEED it on the rears, but i just bought new rubber so I may as well. I am 2.25" in the front and 2" in the rear. I found a good set of Ingals angled arms i'm going to get. $100 cheaper than the SPCs.
ps - i hope you still work on your ride
There you go...I installed my camber kit around 5 yrs ago and haven't had any abnormal wear in the front or rear since then and I'm sitting pretty low. Good choice for sure.
I still have plans for the CB...just had to shift my focus to the house for a while. I had some of the copper pipes develop pinholes in them which was causing water to spray inside the walls and etc. Replacing all those pipes with Pex pipe and also tearing down & remodeling the upstairs bathroom where the pipes were leaking. All the pipes have been changed downstairs now...just have to finish that bathroom.
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