Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

No worries. I gave it a lot of thought and I'm simply going to buy a power distribution block to split the power between the starter / fuse box / alternator. Also thinking a lot, the alternator in the OEM setup feeds from the fuse box. And only needs a 80AMP fuse. The components get their power straight from the ALT. I think my mistake here is due to wire distance and not having the alternator and fuse box share the same distribution point + cheap ebay junk things are not working.

I thought about feeding the ALT from the fuse box again but I think the wire length is too much. So I bought a 3 way power splitter. The battery will have a breaker on it in the trunk, then to 3 way splitter in the engine bay and the 3 splits will be starter, ALT, fuse box.

[Rilas]

After the summer, this is one of my winter projects. To do exactly what you described, 3 way splitter and 3 individual power wires.

[Raf99]

After the summer, this is one of my winter projects. To do exactly what you described, 3 way splitter and 3 individual power wires.

I'm still a little concerned about safety here. I mean the battery has a breaker on it, yep. But the alternator provides power too. If the alt or fuse wire suffered damage would there be a safety issue I wonder.

[Rilas]

If any the current wires suffered damage wouldn't there be a safety issue? If the draw becomes too great it should kick the breaker on the battery.

Option B: A two way splitter with power going to the fuse box and the starter. While maintaining the wire from the alternator to the fuse box?

Also how likely are you to run the cable where it is going to sustain damage? Aside from some total freak incident that no one can predict where something just stupid happens.

[Grumpys93]

Option B: A two way splitter with power going to the fuse box and the starter. While maintaining the wire from the alternator to the fuse box?

Once I am finished tuning I that will be my next project, I have all the parts just need to put in the time.

[Raf99]

If any the current wires suffered damage wouldn't there be a safety issue? If the draw becomes too great it should kick the breaker on the battery.

Option B: A two way splitter with power going to the fuse box and the starter. While maintaining the wire from the alternator to the fuse box?

Also how likely are you to run the cable where it is going to sustain damage? Aside from some total freak incident that no one can predict where something just stupid happens.

My fear was the power wire i had running under the bumper going to the alternator. Rocks hit it, etc. and should I have a breaker at that point. Now I'm realizing that any breaker cannot take the amperage running through there and I'm just going to install a splitter. I would maintain the fuse box wire to alternator but the fuse box is now in the cabin and I also don't think the OEM wire will reach + the distance is longer which affect the 80amp fuse.

But I like your thinking. I'm going to simply run the fuse box and alternator wires to the same junction point now. The starter will be there too but it's only used on startup. So power should flow to fuse box and back to battery (when needed). Hope this will do. But if this fails then I will put the ALT straight back to the fuse box.

[Raf99]

Well, it's an easy install....

[Raf99]

And ironically the ebay circuit breaker broke in the same fashion as the last one.


And with this work done, I still have a dam idle issue. If I blip the throttle it won't recover and almost stalls when trying to go back to idle. The more load (lights, etc.) the worse the issue. I unplugged the IACV and didn't seem to have the issue anymore so currently I'm pushing to this being a IACV problem. It is the original one. I may mess with the S300 IACV setting tomorrow. I'm not sure why one would adjust this setting when the car an fine prior..., I'm thinking if I have to adjust this it means the IACV is malfunctioning.

"IAC duty cycle - adjusts the feedback relationship between the current engine speed, target idle speed and idle valve duty cycle. If the idle dips low once the throttle is released, increase the IAC duty cycle. If the idle speed 'hangs', reduce the IAC duty cycle."

[G. Wiffington]

Yes. If you unplug the IACV & it does not change the idle that is porbably
the culprit regarding the idle issue.

Especially if you can increase the IACV in s300 with no change to the idle then it is a definite issue.

I am curious, what is the AFR on your wideband when this is happening??


I love this build man. Your CB is one of the only reasons I still get on here.

[Raf99]

Yes. If you unplug the IACV & it does not change the idle that is porbably
the culprit regarding the idle issue.

Especially if you can increase the IACV in s300 with no change to the idle then it is a definite issue.

I am curious, what is the AFR on your wideband when this is happening??


I love this build man. Your CB is one of the only reasons I still get on here.

Aww! Appreciate the kind words man!!

So today I loaded up S300, moved the IACV slider to the right two notches and now the car runs great!! I'm assuming this implies a faulty or semi faulty IACV and the ECU settings are simply making up for it's "old age" Took her for two drives, tomorrow I'll wash it and take some pics. But no leaks, no issues. ECT were 186 the whole time and it's 86F outside.

Either way, great to have Sally back! Definitely not use to the clutch ug. I adjusted it a bit too. It's sooo heavy you have to use your whole leg. But the catch point is 2-3" from the floor so it's tricky!

[Straight Success]

Between the paint job, wire tuck, custom parts, man hours invested, and new additions, would this be classified as priceless to you?

BTW, she's still looking more beautifil than ever.

[Raf99]

Between the paint job, wire tuck, custom parts, man hours invested, and new additions, would this be classified as priceless to you?

BTW, she's still looking more beautifil than ever.

I was at a neighborhood gathering last year and one of the younger guys who owns a "modified" civic came up to talk to me. (Tattooed arms, skinny, young fella, kind of scary looking, but cool). He asked if it was my car,.."yep..oh ya".. and asked "what was done to it?".

I realized that it was easier to say what wasn't done to it. I thought about it for a second and said .. "ahh everything..". I was thinking about it, I've had this car for 10+ years now. Dang...

Priceless. naa. I would love to upgrade this project to a R34 or Skyline project. I do understand that one day I may crash this car or get in an accident due to it being a power machine

And speaking of things to do. Still have some items that need installing...

- The Trans shifter assembly spring thing. (Believe I have to remove intercooler piping, shifter cables, to complete that.)
- The upper braided rad hose, try # 2230. Like OMG, the last thing needed to the bay arrgh.. (Need to drain coolant to complete this)
- Install new OEM window visors
- Install rear window visor (so it can blow off again)
- Install hood bug deflector / visor

.... this is is a lot of visors....

[Raf99]

Took Sally for a good drive today! Oh boy, she is missed Smiling from ear to ear now! But there are some items to followup on...

1. The steering wheel is off / tilt. Not sure why or how, like the alignment is off but the car doesn't pull one way or the other. No issues, I'll probably just adjust the wheel inside the car
2. Adjust clutch pedal. Yesterday / day before I thought it was too close to the floor & now it's too far from the floor. Should of left it where it was :P
3. & the horn doesn't work, easy fix!

[af_1132]

In regards to #1, did you adjust the steering joint at all? Man, after doing the manual rack conversion myself, even if the splines are just one off when you hook up the pinion again, the wheel is not straight.

[Grumpys93]

I agree I had to remove my steering wheel hub to reposition it a couple times to get it right.