Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

haha...

So we drained her coolant today and are going to tackle the upper rad hose again and make it a braided hose. Big thanks to Rilas for sending me a straight end. We are going to....

1. Shorten the upper rad connection
2. weld an end on each coolant connector
3. Use a combo of swivel heads and straight head to get the short 16AN braided line to bend/work...



This is to address this issue......



Don't know if this will work, wish me luck

[toycar]

Hmm... at 410HP and using 880CC injectors I was always under the impression that I was maxing them out. But did not have the knowledge to determine that answer. I always assumed (was told) to go more power meth will probably be needed, head work, fuel pump. How do you learn how to tell what is maxed out and what isn't? yaa...

Anywho.......... got some good news!! I did the compression tests on Sally after the valve adjustments I did. And the results are .... pretty nice I think these results are great as the engine was built to be 8:5:1 compression. And the shop who built it did an amazing job too. All high quality parts used.

per the evans tuning checklist:
8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)

You are probably flowing around 42-43lbs/min air and have 3500cc/min of fuel delivery potential.

Consider AFR ratios when doing the math. You have some headroom before you hit burdensome loads on your injectors

If you read the compressor map it’ll tell you airflow lbs/min and you could estimate the fuel needed for ideal AFR, but the short answer is you have plenty of room.

Meth helps. Ethanol available?

Alcohol fuel has a higher tolerance for detonation. Not needed for more power. Just helps with room for error. So does race gas and higher octane fuel.

[Raf99]

Ethanol, not at the pump. Race gas = yes.

Oh man, so many questions. I'm dying to tune myself but ahhhhhhhhhh

OK Stupid Q #1 - Where is my compressor map?

[Grumpys93]

Ethanol, not at the pump. Race gas = yes.

Oh man, so many questions. I'm dying to tune myself but ahhhhhhhhhh

OK Stupid Q #1 - Where is my compressor map?

Google search your turbo and add compressor map. Then once you get it print it out and use Domesticated DIY to see how your turbo performs.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...light=Properly

Or read Garrett’s explation. It’s is an awesome tool to see how your turbo performs.
https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...hoose-a-turbo/
When I was selecting my turbo I used a compressor map to find my borg Warner. It shows you it’s limits and when it’s most efficient.

[toycar]

Ethanol, not at the pump. Race gas = yes.

Oh man, so many questions. I'm dying to tune myself but ahhhhhhhhhh

OK Stupid Q #1 - Where is my compressor map?

Hardest part about tuning yourself, once you understand how to tune, is lack of dyno. Advancing ignition timing and adjusting duty cycle to deliver sufficient fuel isn’t rocket science.

Understanding how many times per second your ignition cycle needs to happen is basically understanding stroke length and rpm/60

More fuel = longer duty cycle.

Advancing timing is a little more complex but you are a smart and capable guy. You could do it, but without a dyno it’s challenigng to go high HP

You really need a dyno. Pay a good tuner 300-600 and enjoy. It’s that simple.

If you have sufficient pumping to supply the fuel and maintain fuel pressure, you have injector room and everything else in place to make the magic happen.

Meth might not be a terrible idea if you really want to be safe and run around high pressure all the time.

Running race gas exclusively is expensive


Traction though. Traction will be an issue

[Straight Success]

Hardest part about tuning yourself, once you understand how to tune, is lack of dyno...

This. #fact

[Raf99]

Hardest part about tuning yourself, once you understand how to tune, is lack of dyno. Advancing ignition timing and adjusting duty cycle to deliver sufficient fuel isn’t rocket science.

Understanding how many times per second your ignition cycle needs to happen is basically understanding stroke length and rpm/60

More fuel = longer duty cycle.

Advancing timing is a little more complex but you are a smart and capable guy. You could do it, but without a dyno it’s challenigng to go high HP

You really need a dyno. Pay a good tuner 300-600 and enjoy. It’s that simple.

If you have sufficient pumping to supply the fuel and maintain fuel pressure, you have injector room and everything else in place to make the magic happen.

Meth might not be a terrible idea if you really want to be safe and run around high pressure all the time.

Running race gas exclusively is expensive

Traction though. Traction will be an issue

Ya, I know any tuner will always take my $$$. And guy who did the car is a good tuner. Car has been 120% rock solid! If it had any issues it was because of me haha.

But..... low/high ign. timing, low/high fuel maps, fuel trim, duty cycle settings..... map reading.... I know right now I'm running 25% duty cycle

I've read and read, but I think I need experience. I'm not putting "two and two" together here. IE: How much modification is required to a base map to get the car running 14.7 across the board.

Hmmmm just reading about the security settings in SManager. Wow... do they work? Example settings: Do not start the engine unless the throttle is between 25-50% on key on, and the brake switch is on.

[toycar]

Ya, I know any tuner will always take my $$$. And guy who did the car is a good tuner. Car has been 120% rock solid! If it had any issues it was because of me haha.

But..... low/high ign. timing, low/high fuel maps, fuel trim, duty cycle settings..... map reading.... I know right now I'm running 25% duty cycle

I've read and read, but I think I need experience. I'm not putting "two and two" together here. IE: How much modification is required to a base map to get the car running 14.7 across the board.

Hmmmm just reading about the security settings in SManager. Wow... do they work? Example settings: Do not start the engine unless the throttle is between 25-50% on key on, and the brake switch is on.

Here’s the deal. On a lower hp build, there is room for error. What you are trying to do can = catastrophe in one bad pull.

This is why a tuner is helpful. I could talk a bunch of jibberish about tuning but if that encouraged you to try it yourself and your engine exploded my jibberish would be doing a disservice


Even if the jibberish is sound science. If you don’t grasp it and it costs you thousands instead of hundreds than I should’ve STFU shouldn’t I?

[Raf99]

Here’s the deal. On a lower hp build, there is room for error. What you are trying to do can = catastrophe in one bad pull.

This is why a tuner is helpful. I could talk a bunch of jibberish about tuning but if that encouraged you to try it yourself and your engine exploded my jibberish would be doing a disservice


Even if the jibberish is sound science. If you don’t grasp it and it costs you thousands instead of hundreds than I should’ve STFU shouldn’t I?

When I was young I couldn't wait for my first experience of putting a car off the road. I still remember it. Knew it would happen eventually, wanted to learn from it. I expect to break something Part of learning.

But I also like to learn and educate as much as possible first. Sooo in the case of learning SManager w/ S300 on a honda platform w/ my specs ... where does one start. I mean, I've read the help contents a couple times. I understand the lingo but don't know what I'm doing.

ie: is the primary method of adjusting boost in a closed WG system simply raising/lowering the duty cycle?

Not saying I want to tune cars, I just want to learn how.

[Raf99]

Fixing another "deep technical topic" with Sally today Running a 25' 2AWG wire from the trans ground to the battery in the trunk. The goal here is to keep things OEM as possible and assist in battery / power management.

- Got it wrapped.


Helps to label things. Things can get complicated.



Ran up the passenger side to the OEM ground wire location. I didn't have enough wire to run through the passenger fender and in all honesty I didn't want to. It piggy-backs the power wire going to the fuse box anyways.
Nicely tucked in with the body ground wire.

[toycar]

Nice job on the cable. Why not use a solder on end on the cable?

Anyone reading this that could use the tip:

Solder on ends are easy. Flip upside down so cup is pointed up, out end in vice. Hear with torch until you can melt solder by pressing solder into cup. Make pool of solder, heat with torchbsome more to ensure everything is liquid. Add cable. Hold in cup/cable end until cool.

Presto. Soldering ends on cables the easy way

Tuning, I’ll try and comment more on that when I am at a pc next. Short answer is yes, increasing duty cycle will increase fuel delivery. 100% duty cycle = 100% function of injector. Determine cc’s needed for air moving, increase duty cycle to deliver appropriate fuel

More to it than that, but that’s the short answer

[Raf99]

Yep, I always add a bit of solder.



As for the tuning, where can i learn? Where can I buy books? It's like I'm at the point where I need a walk -through but... they don't exist.

[toycar]

Yep, I always add a bit of solder.



As for the tuning, where can i learn? Where can I buy books? It's like I'm at the point where I need a walk -through but... they don't exist.

I think the approach is pretty straight forward. Learn the science thoroughly and then find a tool/software that you understand how to control and apply the science. Every tuning software is different but the desired outcome is always the same. The science never changes. It’s basically about learning the software and how to control it to achieve your goal.

So for your situation if you feel like you understand the science enough to move forward I would reallly start trying to study the software you are using to make it do what you want. Once you are comfortable with the software, then try tuning a little at a time. Try tuning and data logging in small increments and adjust as needed. Always use caution and know that excessive lean is way worse than excessive rich

Hope that helps. Science first, then how to apply the science, then how to use the software to apply the science

[Raf99]

For those following, good video i found about SManager usage..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1GBigFz7h0

[NH-503P-3]

Really nice job on the cables John. Again I HAVE to do this. When I’m done being cracked out on the two other head exploding CB projects I’m fully immersed in, I will do this. I looks great.