Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[CyborgGT]

In regards to your shifting issue, what transmission fluid do you use? This was a recent post over at ClubRSX. Different trans, obviously, but it's worth a look into:

"Third gear wall. This is a common problem where it takes a couple tries to get it into third gear. It feels like something is blocking the shifter. Changing your manual transmission fluid (MTF) to Amsoil MTF, Royal Purple MTF, or GM Synchromesh MTF should resolve this issue.

When I had this problem, I used Amsoil MTF and it eliminated the problem. The dealer later put in OEM Honda MTF and the problem came back. Amsoil MTF again corrected the problem."

[Raf99]

In regards to your shifting issue, what transmission fluid do you use? This was a recent post over at ClubRSX. Different trans, obviously, but it's worth a look into:

Interesting. I'd use Royal Purple for sure, love that stuff. But I was using Honda trans fluid.

[NH-503P-3]

That’s a nice lookin trans. I can’t wait to see everything back under the hood. That engine bay is going to be spectacular when completed.

[Raf99]

That’s a nice lookin trans. I can’t wait to see everything back under the hood. That engine bay is going to be spectacular when completed.

Thanks man! But I'm afraid I need some help now.

The trans is not going well. I spent about 3 full days on it now and have taken it apart and put back together about 20-30 times, and I can't figure it out. Remember, this is a fully intact T2T4 and I am adding new syncrotech carbon fiber synchro set, new bearing set, and longer 5th gear (F23) set.

With the case off everything spins fine, can change gears no problem. With the case on everything is jammed up. Some items to note:

- The lowest/largest gear is dragging on the washers of the counter shaft. (There are two shims on the countershaft, there must be a proper order to these. But I had to remove one to get no contact here)
- The case closes fine. No forcing, no using the bolts to get down. Maybe 5mm gap and force is needed. The countershaft c-clip on the top I can get in with no trouble
- If I use two hands while in neutral I can get the mainshaft to spin, but OMG that's a lot of force.
- Keep in mind i'm looking through prior pic taken, I have my H22 non-LSD trans beside me which I can compare to. All measurements are fine.

Is this bc of new syncros,? I searched online and there was only one guy who had the same issue and he said it was that stupid ring on the main shaft at the top that has to point one direction. Anyways, I'm going to take it apart again and keep trying. Must be a mm something stuck somewhere. Wish me luck.

(and LOL, on the old trans the mainshaft bearing got stuck in the bell housing that comes off. Upon trying to get that bearing out the guts of it came out, leaving the bearing casing in the trans case. doh!!)




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Anyways, the H22 cam gears came in which is nice. Now if I can just figure out what size bolt these are. They look like a 12pt 8mm, 5/14 will work but not well.



And I took a chance on ordering this thing as it was hard to tell from the pics on the exact size. But as soon as I seen it I thought it was awesome and kind of cute. Perfect size, should be easy to mount. This will be for the PS fluid. It's about a beer bottle long.

[oneoffaccord]

looking good, keep it going

[G. Wiffington]

How is the transmission coming along?

[Raf99]

looking good, keep it going

Thanks man! Appreciate ya stopping by!

How is the transmission coming along?

Not good. I took a break as I was getting frustrated. Currently I can't determine two things...

1. Why will it only work with one shim under the main shaft, otherwise the 1st gear on the counter shaft rubs on the shims. With only one shim there is no rubbing. Yet, both trans had two shims when taken apart. & nothing changed in the lower gear arrangements or that area of the trans. This ultimately got me wondering the technical reason for the shims.

2. If I use the master shaft ring alignment "thing" that goes on the top of the mainshaft but under the last bearing, then it pushes the syncro down and may be causing too much pressure?

That's where I'm at. But......... took a break and installed cam gears. Did the timing as per manual, spun the engine twice, all looks fine. Piiiccss

[Raf99]

haha... side story...



I rented this for a day ........



2018 GT. 460 HP, 420 TQ.

wow..................crazy power.

Like a level above what Sally will do. Was a 10-speed auto w/ paddle shifters. The sound it made even on start-up was enough to make you cum in your pants. Tap the gas too hard and it downshifts 4 gears and roars for a brief second, reminding you of the beast below. If you floor it at any speed you get the same result (no high rpm needed). Basically it was the first 15sec of this vid.
Not just the amount of power (per weight) that was delivered, also a dual clutch, tons of torque, powering through the gears in split seconds! Some of the gear changes you don't feel at all. In sport mode it auto revs down which is cool I guess.

It had other cool tech, multi-color gauges, heated/cooled seats, on-screen gauge layout changing (either manual or through car modes), steering wheel modes. Not sure I'd buy one if I had the $ as all I want to do is push the gas pedal when I'm in it. Although on the highway you can be in 10th gear and the rpms are at 1800.

But using flappy paddles with a 10-speed is pretty dam useless. You know when you put your foot into it the car can do it way quicker/better. Paddle shifters have limitations at high / low ends. The sound proofing in the car was nice. And the "sport steering" mode just made the steering feel stiffer, not more precise.

Anywho, that's my story. See-ya

[Raf99]

Allllright!!! Good news day!

I finally solved the tranny issues and all is well. Idiot moves were:

- MS (master shaft) top syncro on backwards
- (then determined) wrong MS washer being used
- (then determined) had spring washer in wrong way

Once I sorted out she's free as a bird!!! All greased up, and sealed up! Also ordered a new clutch. I'm going to go with Bully twin disc, it will take some time to arrive. Pics time...

[NH-503P-3]

Niiiiiiicccce. I admire you just for opening up that trans and messing with it. Were there any new cuss words invented while this reassembly was taking place? lol.

[Rilas]

Raf, very nice work there. The engine and trans are looking all freshened up and ready to see the road again! It shouldn't be too much longer before she is seeing the light of day again.

[Raf99]

Niiiiiiicccce. I admire you just for opening up that trans and messing with it. Were there any new cuss words invented while this reassembly was taking place? lol.

haha... not as many curse words when I broke the timing tensioner bolt off in the block twice...

Raf, very nice work there. The engine and trans are looking all freshened up and ready to see the road again! It shouldn't be too much longer before she is seeing the light of day again.

Thanks. Finished adding parts to the trans tonight. I got a clutch bypass line as well. I also paid for the clutch order. This will be a Bully twin disc clutch capable of 650tq. So it could handle more than double the HP I run now. It will come with a twin disc clutch, pressure plate, & flywheel.

[Raf99]

Picked up all these new parts today for $60! Was an ad online. Pretty cool the guy knew about my build already.

[G. Wiffington]

Glad you got the transmission all figured out. That must have been pretty
tedious to chase down & resolve the issue. So many parts to a trans lol.

Looks good!

[Raf99]

Glad you got the transmission all figured out. That must have been pretty
tedious to chase down & resolve the issue. So many parts to a trans lol.

Looks good!

Thanks man. Appreciate ya stopping by. (and there's not really that many parts to a manual transmission; no more than 50 i'd say).

Mooooo pics.....

Before:


After


And in this pic we have...
- Fuel filter
- Rear engine mount
- Coolant lines / PS connections




Still looking to find a roll (10') of 7/16" ID power steering hose. Seems... more difficult than I thought.