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So went to Honda to pick up that bolt. They said the one bolt is on back order till August 1st! Jesus. Found out the same bolt is used in the Acura CL 97-99 so I'll try the Acura dealership next. After that I'll order it from torontohondaparts.com
Wow man, the last few things you've tried to do have been rough on you. The engine bay looks like it turned out great though! If you're still interested in using a compact in line fuel filter I would take a look at Earl''s (like the company that makes the braided hose) as their filter is pretty nice and compact and actually uses male fittings. The cartridges change out pretty easy too if you want to change the size of the element. As far as the hose goes, I believe Ghost is right, Summit or Jegs makes a stainless braided line with that banjo fitting but I think it's for a Civic? Worst case scenario, I'm pretty certain they make just that banjo fitting by itself, either from Earls, Vibrant, or Summit. Hopefully you get that bolt from Acura. If it really comes down to it, I think there are a few websites that might have it in stock. At least the motor isn't in the car.
Wow man, the last few things you've tried to do have been rough on you. The engine bay looks like it turned out great though! If you're still interested in using a compact in line fuel filter I would take a look at Earl''s (like the company that makes the braided hose) as their filter is pretty nice and compact and actually uses male fittings. The cartridges change out pretty easy too if you want to change the size of the element. As far as the hose goes, I believe Ghost is right, Summit or Jegs makes a stainless braided line with that banjo fitting but I think it's for a Civic? Worst case scenario, I'm pretty certain they make just that banjo fitting by itself, either from Earls, Vibrant, or Summit. Hopefully you get that bolt from Acura. If it really comes down to it, I think there are a few websites that might have it in stock. At least the motor isn't in the car.
Thanks man. I did get the bolt from a friend today and came back to the house to install it. And.................. I broke it off in the block too
So I'm doing it wrong, all wrong. And it's actually GhostAccord that saved the day in his reply post on honda-tech. This time around when I installed the bolt I just tightened it snug. But the arm was still loose. It wiggled side to side 2mm and while the larger nut secured the bearing (which moves up and down) this arm had small amounts of play. I thought that the 10mm just needed a few more turns and snap'o ..... bye bye bolt.
So all this bolt is hold the arm to the block and act as a pivot point. The "shoulder" of the bolt is so the rod doesn't rest on the thinner bolt diameter. I
also was reading the wrong torque spec. And I should have noticed that based on the size of the bolt. But I just didn't think this arm could "move" around and not get snug. Me =
..
...
... but some good news I guess. I installed the OEM brake lines. I kid you not, it took me more than an hour to figure out how the F the passenger side went. Bud was with me too and we had prior pics and were stumped on how to it. Behind the steering column, or not, which hole in the prop. valve. wtf.
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The head also needs valve adjustments done. I painted the block how i wanted, also the Valve cover for now, chromed the Honda part.
There should be some good activity coming up with the summer coming. The list is still lengthy but excited to do some of these items for the first time.
Sucks to hear about all the things going bad and wrong on the engine build. We can all relate somehow. Take some time to unwind and relax. Hopefully from now everything will be smooth for you.
Sucks to hear about all the things going bad and wrong on the engine build. We can all relate somehow. Take some time to unwind and relax. Hopefully from now everything will be smooth for you.
Fingers crossed. I did get another bolt, and no way I'm messing it up this time. I think the AEM cam gears are coming tomorrow so going to wait to finish the timing belts etc. tomorrow.
I did take a few hours last night and did the manifold wrap. Fuck i hate doing wrap. It's basically fiberglass / insulation that you need to always pull through and make shit go in the air. So long sleeve shirt + gloves + mask for 2+ hours doing this. I had some left over stuff so I wrapped the bottom half of it rather than only doing the pipes.
Sucks about all the mishaps lately. Header wrap looks the business. Great work!
Thanks man. I never thought I'd see you in here again I hope you're still with that girl loving the weather together in paradise.
Updates:
Ordered the balancer shaft retaining kit today too. Realized I should have ordered that a long time ago.
Cam gears should arrive tomorrow. I also realized today that I don't know how to set timing or I should say there's a lot of controversy over the proper way vs. 'manual intervention' way. (ie - let the spring do it or you do it). My gut tells me to trust the spring and the slack you get from it. Turn 3 teeth counter clock wise, let the belt tension and tighten the bolt. I've read of some people then removing the 10mm bolt that holds the manual tensioner. That didn't make much sense to me.
For the balancer belt I know that spring isn't OEM, so I'll manually set it.
That retainer will save your motor. Had mine pop the seal years ago. If I didn't have an oil pressure gauge, I would've lost the motor. For timing the motor, when I was running the h23 tensioner, it's a bit tight to get a new belt on there. The only thing you really have to worry about is making sure there's no slack between the crank and the exhaust cam. You'll definitely know if it's off a tooth. I employed a wrench on one of the cams to slide the belt onto the tensioner bearing.
That retainer will save your motor. Had mine pop the seal years ago. If I didn't have an oil pressure gauge, I would've lost the motor. For timing the motor, when I was running the h23 tensioner, it's a bit tight to get a new belt on there. The only thing you really have to worry about is making sure there's no slack between the crank and the exhaust cam. You'll definitely know if it's off a tooth. I employed a wrench on one of the cams to slide the belt onto the tensioner bearing.
I remember when i had it go on the F22. It was a rainbow of oil coming out of the front fender well, it was crazy! But will save my bacon!
Wrap had to come off for the WG clamp to get on. So re-did it a bit better.
Where the PS reservoir will go.
Need to order some PS line, and some heater hose for the back of the engine. Then do the transmission, clutch and we will be good to go!
I also started on the transmissions too. I gutted the new transmission to look over things. I degreased it and gave it a light coat of high temp paint, same as the block. I also started to dis-assemble the old transmission too. So far I'm not noticing any bent shift forks or issues yet which is what I expected. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the synchros, gears, etc.
Yikes, I didn't know about that retainer clip. My engine didn't come with one... you may have just saved my build before it even ran!
Yep, do it now while ya can. Known issue and ironically only on that one side.
Updates:
- Started on the transmissions. And believe it or not there are differences between the T2T4 and M2A4. The end of the case in the T2T4 has an extra opening and attaches the ... "black arm thing" inside differently. This had me stumped for a while as the M2A4 case only has one opening for the MS clamp.
I couldn't find bent arms in the old transmission which I almost don't believe as after a bad shift once it was getting 'stuck' in gear or out of gear. Hard locked. But guess it wasn't the arms. Oh, the only difference in the arms is the 'elbow' on the 4/5 shift fork.
I believe these are the 4/5 gear selector ring? (excuse my laziness to google the proper name). Very interesting as they have a different profile but it's hard to really say how.
Not sure I see the point in going past this stage. I can't see any of the old transmissions gears etc being in any better condition than the T2T4 I bought online. But I do want to see the 5th gear sychro on the old transmission as it was grinding for two summers! I bet even the gears are a bit worn.
--The worn shaft on the old transmission--
--Newer shaft--
The plan is to simply make a good transmission here which looks pretty simple now.
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