Originally posted by sonikaccord
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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX
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Originally posted by sonikaccord View PostConstant 12? Get it from the ignition harness.
Yeah that plastic piece is a pain!
For the jdm mirrors, in the end you'll discover that its one extra wire on the plug. So I took the pin out of the JDM plug and simply added it to the OEM plug so I do not have to cut wires.
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Raf I think it just slides up. I've had them out of my doors before. In fact I know they are still out of the doors in my parts car. I think I'm heading up where it is tonight. If so I'll try and get some pictures and figure out how they come off. But they do come off fairly easily, just not intuitively.
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Originally posted by 90EX View PostNice man!
So tonight was the task of running wires. I figured out that stupid door plastic thing, and it does slide up. Right after you break the 23 year old clip
The wires I'm running:
- 12V constant for power folding mirrors. (12V ignition will use stock OEM wire in connector)
- two wires which connect to the passenger side mirror
- 12V to cigg lighter light for LED in switches.
- two wires to connect the tweater to the alpine inverter box the other tweeter connects to
Still not sure on the LED for switch. There has to be a way to use the wires in the door already, but I want them activated with the first turn of the light switch.
Tomorrow will be fishing the wires through the back of the dash and soldering up any loose ends. Will tape it off into a harness, and run it through the passenger door to the mirrors. Think I'll try to depin the JDM connector to add to the OEM connect.
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Lol so I was up at my parts car tonight looking at this for you. The only thing I could come up with was I broke the clip taking mine off too! There was a square hole where I'm assuming one of the red clips with the slide lock was there. I took a bunch of pictures of the door and the part, but you got it figured out.
Nice progress.
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostLol so I was up at my parts car tonight looking at this for you. The only thing I could come up with was I broke the clip taking mine off too! There was a square hole where I'm assuming one of the red clips with the slide lock was there. I took a bunch of pictures of the door and the part, but you got it figured out.
Nice progress.
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Well I worked on the car for hours again today. I got all the wires where they need to go except for the passenger side mirror. To access this area one has to remove the glove box, blower motor box, and AC unit box. I also have the fuse box in this area which needs to be moved (again).
Dam fuse box. I really need to come up with a better idea. I'll have to do some thinking on this one.......
When it comes down to it, all the wires going to the fuse box need to be extended. I thought about putting the fuse box in the glove box but that is no easy reach too and involves hacking the glove box up. Even if I do extend the wires I have no-where to put the fuse box. The trunk is an idea but there's not enough room for the wire loom to run down the passenger side, she's full. So.......... not sure
Last edited by Raf99; 01-23-2016, 10:38 PM.
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You are looking at a gutted / taken apart fuse box. I am going to use this and another fuse box to make a fuse box extension cord. I sat down last night and determined how I am going to do this and have most of the plan set in place for how to do this safely. This way I don't have to cut the OEM wires to extend the fuse box to where I want to put it.
- It has to be safe (fire = bad)
- It has to be properly soldered/heat shrinked wires
- It has to be able to carry the same amperage as the OEM wires
Once I stared at the gutted fuse box long enough it was interesting to see how some wires actually loop back into another wire in the harness without even going through a fuse. As confusing as the disassembled unit was it became apparent how they use the different layers for power or ground and connect or relay "traffic" through the fuses. Smart fellows designed this thing!
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