ok this is my first DIY so sorry if it sucks 
i just got finished doing my car. after several hours of work im going to say i dont reccomend doing this. it was alot of work, and ABS is put there for a reason. i take no responsibility if you do this and kill yourself cause you have no abs or something.
i had a few reasons why i did this. my abs doesnt work (needed a new abs modulator), i wanted a cleaner engine bay, i was putting wagon brakes on the front and had non abs knuckles and since the wheel bearings in the knuckles on my car were frozen in i couldnt have used them anyway, and the weight lost doesnt hurt either.
if you still want to do this then here we go...
part you will need:
90-93 integra proportioning valve
2 front brake lines from a non-abs cb7 (they are a pain to get out if the motor is in the car, luckily i found a car with out the engine)
2 lines going into the master cylinder
proportioning valve from the donor cb7 (optional)
i also got a new master cylinder as mine was bad, this is not nessecary.
tools you will need:
10mm flare nut wrench
basic had tools (air tools, as always are helpful)
double flaring tool (you can rent this at autozone like i did)
tubing cutter (autozone, less then $10)
basically all you have to do is pull all the abs crap out of the car. pull off your intake pipe, and battery to make room. i started with the abs modulator, there are 3 12mm bolts on the bottom of it, there is really no easy way to get them so just keep trying. after you get the bottom bolts out then you can pull all the lines off. be carefull when pulling the line going to the pump as there will be pressure in there. i sprayed myself in the eye
after all the lines are undone you can pull the modulator out and move to the front of the car and pull out the pump. the pump and modulator are held on with some random brackets you can pull off and add to the pile.
now move over to the master cylinder and pull the 2 lines going into it off. then look down below the master cylinder and you will see a H-shaped thing with lines going into it, unhook all those lines and unbolt that as well. i had my master cylinder off which may or may not make it easier.
now the fun part, getting all those lines out, there are 3 brackets that hold the lines to the firewall unbolt those. you will probably need to pull the fuel filter, vaccume box, and canister out of the way. once you have the lines all undone i dont really have an easy way to get them out of the car, i just got under the car and started yanking on them. i also dropped the rear crossmember so i had more space. when everything was out i tucked the abs wiring where ever i could so it wasnt just hanging there.
once all the lines are out you should have a pile that looks like this.
make sure you get the abs control unit in the trunk just forward of the jack.
now, you have to do a little work before you can start putting stuff back in. take one of the lines you removed with the larger size flare nut and cut the line with the tubing cutter. once its cut through pull the flare nut off and get the new line you got that goes into the back whole on the master cylinder. push the flare nut going that goes into the master cylinder back on the line as far as you can. cut this line as close to the end of it as you can. pull the smaller flare nut off and put the larger one off your old lines on. now you take the double flaring tool and flare out the end on this line. you may need to bend the line straight to get the tool on the end of it, this is fine just be very careful not to kink the line bending it.
now what i did was i took the braket on the accord prop valve and put it on the integra unit. the bolt that hold it together are tamperproof but with a little time they can be taken out with a pair of vice grips, just be carful on the integra unit not to have both bolts out at the same time or it will come apart and most likely be pretty hard to get back together. the accord unit, doesnt matter, i only got that for the bracket on it. you can replace the tamperproof bolts with regular 10mm bolts.
next thing to do is feeding the new pass line in, really no easy way to do this either, just be careful not to kink the line. the driverside line is fairly simple to get in. then put your new prop valve in, hook up all the lines including the 2 going to the master cylinder. replace everything you took off the car, bleed your brakes, and take it for a test drive, make sure you stay off ice.
i just got finished doing my car. after several hours of work im going to say i dont reccomend doing this. it was alot of work, and ABS is put there for a reason. i take no responsibility if you do this and kill yourself cause you have no abs or something.i had a few reasons why i did this. my abs doesnt work (needed a new abs modulator), i wanted a cleaner engine bay, i was putting wagon brakes on the front and had non abs knuckles and since the wheel bearings in the knuckles on my car were frozen in i couldnt have used them anyway, and the weight lost doesnt hurt either.
if you still want to do this then here we go...
part you will need:
90-93 integra proportioning valve
2 front brake lines from a non-abs cb7 (they are a pain to get out if the motor is in the car, luckily i found a car with out the engine)
2 lines going into the master cylinder
proportioning valve from the donor cb7 (optional)
i also got a new master cylinder as mine was bad, this is not nessecary.
tools you will need:
10mm flare nut wrench
basic had tools (air tools, as always are helpful)
double flaring tool (you can rent this at autozone like i did)
tubing cutter (autozone, less then $10)
basically all you have to do is pull all the abs crap out of the car. pull off your intake pipe, and battery to make room. i started with the abs modulator, there are 3 12mm bolts on the bottom of it, there is really no easy way to get them so just keep trying. after you get the bottom bolts out then you can pull all the lines off. be carefull when pulling the line going to the pump as there will be pressure in there. i sprayed myself in the eye
after all the lines are undone you can pull the modulator out and move to the front of the car and pull out the pump. the pump and modulator are held on with some random brackets you can pull off and add to the pile.
now move over to the master cylinder and pull the 2 lines going into it off. then look down below the master cylinder and you will see a H-shaped thing with lines going into it, unhook all those lines and unbolt that as well. i had my master cylinder off which may or may not make it easier.
now the fun part, getting all those lines out, there are 3 brackets that hold the lines to the firewall unbolt those. you will probably need to pull the fuel filter, vaccume box, and canister out of the way. once you have the lines all undone i dont really have an easy way to get them out of the car, i just got under the car and started yanking on them. i also dropped the rear crossmember so i had more space. when everything was out i tucked the abs wiring where ever i could so it wasnt just hanging there.
once all the lines are out you should have a pile that looks like this.
make sure you get the abs control unit in the trunk just forward of the jack.
now, you have to do a little work before you can start putting stuff back in. take one of the lines you removed with the larger size flare nut and cut the line with the tubing cutter. once its cut through pull the flare nut off and get the new line you got that goes into the back whole on the master cylinder. push the flare nut going that goes into the master cylinder back on the line as far as you can. cut this line as close to the end of it as you can. pull the smaller flare nut off and put the larger one off your old lines on. now you take the double flaring tool and flare out the end on this line. you may need to bend the line straight to get the tool on the end of it, this is fine just be very careful not to kink the line bending it.
now what i did was i took the braket on the accord prop valve and put it on the integra unit. the bolt that hold it together are tamperproof but with a little time they can be taken out with a pair of vice grips, just be carful on the integra unit not to have both bolts out at the same time or it will come apart and most likely be pretty hard to get back together. the accord unit, doesnt matter, i only got that for the bracket on it. you can replace the tamperproof bolts with regular 10mm bolts.
next thing to do is feeding the new pass line in, really no easy way to do this either, just be careful not to kink the line. the driverside line is fairly simple to get in. then put your new prop valve in, hook up all the lines including the 2 going to the master cylinder. replace everything you took off the car, bleed your brakes, and take it for a test drive, make sure you stay off ice.
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