If you can get any small led screen that will fit in front of the plastic film inside of the clock, you can turn your clock into whatever you want, I chose a volt meter.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201612
This thread will help with getting the clock out.
The volt meter I purchased was cheap. Couldn't really find anything else that wasn't too big, so hopefully it doesn't give out on me. Came straight from Hong Kong, so it took 3 weeks to come in...
Cut the wires that go to the buttons, you won't need them. Place your screen where you would want it, I got mine as center as I could. I used JB Weld because I didn't have regular glue, but this stuff worked a lot better since it was sticky enough to hold the screen in place.
I used dikes to cut out a hole for the wires to come threw. Plastic was very easy to bend and cut.
Remove the clock off of the circuit board. BE CAREFUL WITH REMOVING THE CLOCK, IT IS GLASS, IT WILL SHATTER. You can use a sharp knife or some dikes to cut the wires going to screen. I used a flat head under the clock and pryed it off (which is why the glass shattered and I cut my finger). Once I pryed, it off I used plyers to pull the rest of the soldered wires off the board.
Wires coming out the hole, and you can see the bottom of black chip. That was my clearence issue. The clamps wouldn't go back on correctly with that gap.
Next, I removed the black chip that's in the other picture. If you don't have clearence issues like I did to where the clock won't close completely, you don't have to remove it
My volt meter came with three wires. Positive (red), ground (black), and signal (white). I chose a meter with a signal wire so I could see my voltage at the battery. You could always use a two wire meter and just used the ignition controlled wire off the clock harness.
Now you've finished your clock. You can throw your clamps back on. You may have to bend them back to make them stay and hold correctly again.
This next step is for if you want to run your signal wire directly to the source of what you want the voltage of. For example if you have an amp and you want to see what the voltage is at the amp, then you'll run your signal wire to your positive of the amp. I ran my signal wire to the fuse box, connecting it to the wire that comes straight from the battery.
If you do not care if its directly at the source, skip this step because you can just wire it off the clock wires.
There is a small hole next to the big screw where your clock goes. You can fish a wire threw there. Fish the wire to the left, not down. That way you can get it from the under the driver side of the car.
This is the part where I almost gave up, it took a LOT of fishing, but eventually I saw the wire to where I could grab it. It was closest to the gas pedal. I just pulled it threw and then the hard part was over.
After pulling my wire threw, I ran it behind the radio and onto the passenger side. I ran the wire threw the hole where the factory fog light harness comes threw, and wire the wire up to the fuse box.
Next step, wiring the volt meter to the clock harness.
Clock harness has 4 wires, ground (black) dimmer (red), top yellow (ignition), button yellow, (constant)
I wired my positive to the top yellow so that my volt meter turns on when I have the key turn on, and my ground to the black wire, and I just ran my signal wire, so I'd connect my volt meter to that wire.
Tested everything, made sure my connections were good, then pushed the clock, I mean, volt meter, back into the dash
And that's it for the write up. Thanks a lot, I hope it was helpful.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201612
This thread will help with getting the clock out.
The volt meter I purchased was cheap. Couldn't really find anything else that wasn't too big, so hopefully it doesn't give out on me. Came straight from Hong Kong, so it took 3 weeks to come in...
Cut the wires that go to the buttons, you won't need them. Place your screen where you would want it, I got mine as center as I could. I used JB Weld because I didn't have regular glue, but this stuff worked a lot better since it was sticky enough to hold the screen in place.
I used dikes to cut out a hole for the wires to come threw. Plastic was very easy to bend and cut.
Remove the clock off of the circuit board. BE CAREFUL WITH REMOVING THE CLOCK, IT IS GLASS, IT WILL SHATTER. You can use a sharp knife or some dikes to cut the wires going to screen. I used a flat head under the clock and pryed it off (which is why the glass shattered and I cut my finger). Once I pryed, it off I used plyers to pull the rest of the soldered wires off the board.
Wires coming out the hole, and you can see the bottom of black chip. That was my clearence issue. The clamps wouldn't go back on correctly with that gap.
Next, I removed the black chip that's in the other picture. If you don't have clearence issues like I did to where the clock won't close completely, you don't have to remove it
My volt meter came with three wires. Positive (red), ground (black), and signal (white). I chose a meter with a signal wire so I could see my voltage at the battery. You could always use a two wire meter and just used the ignition controlled wire off the clock harness.
Now you've finished your clock. You can throw your clamps back on. You may have to bend them back to make them stay and hold correctly again.
This next step is for if you want to run your signal wire directly to the source of what you want the voltage of. For example if you have an amp and you want to see what the voltage is at the amp, then you'll run your signal wire to your positive of the amp. I ran my signal wire to the fuse box, connecting it to the wire that comes straight from the battery.
If you do not care if its directly at the source, skip this step because you can just wire it off the clock wires.
There is a small hole next to the big screw where your clock goes. You can fish a wire threw there. Fish the wire to the left, not down. That way you can get it from the under the driver side of the car.
This is the part where I almost gave up, it took a LOT of fishing, but eventually I saw the wire to where I could grab it. It was closest to the gas pedal. I just pulled it threw and then the hard part was over.
After pulling my wire threw, I ran it behind the radio and onto the passenger side. I ran the wire threw the hole where the factory fog light harness comes threw, and wire the wire up to the fuse box.
Next step, wiring the volt meter to the clock harness.
Clock harness has 4 wires, ground (black) dimmer (red), top yellow (ignition), button yellow, (constant)
I wired my positive to the top yellow so that my volt meter turns on when I have the key turn on, and my ground to the black wire, and I just ran my signal wire, so I'd connect my volt meter to that wire.
Tested everything, made sure my connections were good, then pushed the clock, I mean, volt meter, back into the dash
And that's it for the write up. Thanks a lot, I hope it was helpful.
**Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
I put an air/ fuel display in the clock of my Integra many moons ago.
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