EXT: prepping and priming

[92ex]

awesome write up.

[i'm the girl]

thanks - just lookin out

[alb_accord]

when it comes to do some touch ups what paint and primes u suggest we buy.
for now i got regular white primer.
for the rust i got some rust neutralizer since its not deep.
for paint i am looking for some frost white paint which is turning out to be hard to find.

and all of these are in cans that u buy at a automotive store.

i don't wanna talk about the clear coat. <<<<<having real hard time on finding one.

[MRX]

so most of the cars i see running around in that dull grey color are fully primered and ready to paint? I wanna try to get the car painted b4 the TN meet. Whats a good pressure to spray the paint? And if i do all the sanding and primering how much would a shop charge to just paint the car with say a nice black color?...Look at me askin newbie questions

[i'm the girl]

so most of the cars i see running around in that dull grey color are fully primered and ready to paint? I wanna try to get the car painted b4 the TN meet. Whats a good pressure to spray the paint? And if i do all the sanding and primering how much would a shop charge to just paint the car with say a nice black color?...Look at me askin newbie questions

like this....?

yeah that's the primer coat (over the primer-sealer) - sprayed with a pressure fed gun, although now we're starting to use gravity-fed (I think it's better, one less element to worry about) I'll have to get back to you later (check on thursday)about pressure specifics, because my husband is the one who takes care of the compressor ... I do know that there are two pressure regulators to worry about, though - one on the gun and one on the compressor, so I'll get you better info in a few days

As for your shop costs - it all depends on the shop and what color you want to use ... since you're doing the prep work yourself, you might even trust maaco to do the base and clear -- but everything all depends (check with people in your area for recommendations)

Just a note: once your car is primed, it's in your best interest to get it to paint within 2-3 days - imo - because clear coat is the only thing that really SEALS your paint job... otherwise you'll start to get pitting and scratches an all sorts of crap and you'll be starting over all over again... the longer you wait for paint, the more chance you have of needing to start over
\
anyway - i'll get back to you on thursday about that pressure;
but that should give you some know-how to get started with

[MRX]

Ok, good info. I'm doing my best not to ask too stupid of newbie questions tho lol. And about how long should it take from when i start to when i finish the final primer? Just need a general time frame because i'll be on a constraint. I'll have an assistant

[i'm the girl]

when it comes to do some touch ups what paint and primes u suggest we buy.
for now i got regular white primer.
for the rust i got some rust neutralizer since its not deep.
for paint i am looking for some frost white paint which is turning out to be hard to find.

and all of these are in cans that u buy at a automotive store.

i don't wanna talk about the clear coat. <<<<<having real hard time on finding one.

Ok, the best i know about regular old spray paint is that even krylon makes a fine primer, esp if you keep it in a warm water bath to keep the chemicals happy

i don't know what to tell you about base and clear, because I really only work with spray gun paints, which you can buy by the pint, which in this case, PPG is my preferred brand - i'd look in pep boys for the color in a can - i know there's tons around the Philly area, I'm surprised you're having trouble finding the color ... how close to your car's color is the white primer, btw? (i'm getting an idea, so please let me know)

and as for touchup - when you sand down, you want to taper INTO the low spots, it helps for a cleaner, more even fill


PS - to everyone - here's where the paint code is on your car, driver's side:

[i'm the girl]

Ok, good info. I'm doing my best not to ask too stupid of newbie questions tho lol. And about how long should it take from when i start to when i finish the final primer? Just need a general time frame because i'll be on a constraint. I'll have an assistant

to give you an idea: you should spend probably one day alone on sanding down and body prep ... assuming there are no major issues -- but if you're in a spot in florida that's extra humid (we did the 98 accord in Louisiana in december and still had problems) -- things could take longer -- but i would say, taking your time and doing it right, one long day should do it

total maybe (3) days to make sure everything is done right? Just with time considerations on curing/drying - it should be at least 2 days (one for body one for paint) but i'd say three if you really work hard at it and have help

[abdulmo86]

any areas that require filler (small dings, rust spots, etc) should be COMPLETELY sanded down so that you are applying the bondo directly to the bare metal - deep rust will need to be cut out with new pieces welded in; and large dents will need to be pulled or replaced-fill in your low spots with bondo, working efficiently and carefully so that everything is as even and smooth as possible (i can give you more bondo tips later if you need)... you can test the smoothness by eying it or rubbing your finger accross once it is all dried


can u post some bondo tips about to do it on my rear quarter panels

[i'm the girl]

uhhh... sand down the low spots, fill them in then use the scraper to smooth it out - once it dries, sand it flush to the surface (I just close my eyes and run two fingers across it to see if i can feel a jump between the filled area and the metal - it works for me, anyway ) you shouldn't be able to tell the difference - and this could take a few applicationsuntil its all even

and when you sand, taper into the low spots, like i said to alb_accord make sure your surface is clean and dry, and for best adhesion, that your applying to bare metal (I know I keep repeating myself, but it's important)

good luck

[alb_accord]

now i got some sealan primer and i got the glossy clear coat for the finish.
now the paint.
i went to different shops today including pep boys(they suck here in philly)
they have
1.flat white
2.white.
3.bright white
4.glossy white
and some other white colour. i can't find frost white lmao

what should i use. my car is white and that is pretty much all i know lol

[i'm the girl]

I guess you're right IN philly? (the pep boys out in Bucks Co where im from were never too bad) honestly if you're trying to color match your best bet is to do a test surface, not on your car, but preferably a piece of metal - base and clear it the same way you plan to paint your car and then compare like paint chips to the cb7

[i'm the girl]

Ok, good info. I'm doing my best not to ask too stupid of newbie questions tho lol. And about how long should it take from when i start to when i finish the final primer? Just need a general time frame because i'll be on a constraint. I'll have an assistant

i ask dumb noobie questions all the time - I have more experience in art then i do in mechanics, so I am more than happy to help out where i can : )

[MRX]

i ask dumb noobie questions all the time - I have more experience in art then i do in mechanics, so I am more than happy to help out where i can : )

yup, we're from two different worlds...we could learn alot from one another :handshake:

edit, i know WAY too many hookups. Might be able to get this down for just about less than supply costs with all my hookups. Hell, i might be painting it myself I should probably take off the doors huh ?

[i'm the girl]

Yeah - let me just say two things: make sure you CLEAN YOUR GUN COMPLETELY between the coats (we use a different one for paint) -- even a little bit of primer left in the nozzle can cause nasty gross ugly spots

and if you sand the base coat (by this point you're basically just detailing and polishing the finish) use AT LEAST 1000 grit sandpaper (1200 is probably best)

when you do the outside you dont need to take the doors off -- but im also assuming youre color matching -- but if you're painting your car a new color, then yes, take your doors off and scuff sand the frame there - taping and seling off from the INSIDE (i think you know what i mean)