EXT : CV Axles

[Hostile]

[QUOTE=LadyG94CB7;2530239]Thanks, Hostile!
Did you use it???

Yup, very usefull. And everytime I would get stuck I would bolt to the laptop and then head back to the car. lol

[scudweiser]

nice write up

and to whoever posted that youtube vid, that looks just way too easy! the ball joint is supposed to be the biggest pita part of doing a cv shaft!

[LadyG]

YK86- Man, I wouldn't know where to even buy that tool. I went to discount and asked for a ball joint remover, and that's what I gotz.
It looks much safer, that's for sure.

Also, Could something else have caused that fluid to pour out? I have a manual, and nothing like that occurred. I have never had that happen in any of the other cars I have changed axles in. (they were all Hondas and manual trans) And I am a maintenance Nazi... No way my trans is low on fluid, ect.

Just asking. I would like to know.

Hostile- Dude! That makes me soo happy! Thanks for the feedback!

[Bad_dude]

Great write up! Lots of pics and very detailed

Just want to add that as already mentioned, the pickle fork is a balljoint boot killer. If you have a bit of money to spare or work on cars a lot, I highly recommend this balljoint tool (about $25 if I remember right, cheaper than a good quality balljoint!). I use it for all balljoints and tierods. If you do use this, I recommend putting a nut on the end of the balljoint stud to keep it from crushing/damaging it.



As for the person saying to disconnect the tie rod, what I do is crank the steering wheel all the way opposite of the side your working on (eg:left side axle, turn wheels right). With the lower balljoint out, this pushes the entire knuckle out giving you more than enough room to pull the axle out of the tranny or halfshaft. I like to disconnect as little parts as possible.

The hub nut can be a huge pain. There was one cb that had one stuck on tight and I broke three 1/2" drive breaker bars trying to loosen it. So I bought a 3/4" drive 4' breaker bar and 36mm socket and that thing gets all hub nuts off (I don't even have to unstake it).

Oh, the 5speed tranny needs to have the mtf drained or it will pour out the hole when you remove the axle but autos don't need to have the fluid drained.

You can buy this tool at Harborfreight if you have a local store around. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

How to get that axle nut off when the notch is on it? Would I just turn it until the notch is undone and turn the nut or should I unnotch it then turn the nut? I don't have air tools.
Thanks,

[Bad_dude]

If the boot is just busted on mine, how long do I have before the axle needs to be safely replaced? Could I wait until it clicks on turning or must I change it now? I am low on budget right now.
What if I keep pumping new grease in there to prolong the life of the joint? Would that work or is it just a waste of time?

Thanks.

[deevergote]

It's hard to say how much time you have. I've known people to drive for quite some time on a clicking axle, so you might be fine for a while. Then again, it could fail tomorrow. Unlikely... but change it as soon as you can afford to. It's not as disastrous as, say, a ball joint... but it's still something you don't want to ignore.

[Bad_dude]

It's hard to say how much time you have. I've known people to drive for quite some time on a clicking axle, so you might be fine for a while. Then again, it could fail tomorrow. Unlikely... but change it as soon as you can afford to. It's not as disastrous as, say, a ball joint... but it's still something you don't want to ignore.

I am thinking of pumping little grease to keep it from drying out until I can get it fixed. It's just broke and I can tell by plenty of grease and fresh/wet every where. The problem is the break is on the bottom of the boot so gravity will squeeze it out easily.

Thanks,

[Shaar]

I usually disconnect the ball joint AND tie rod. Ive done this 3 times so far on my 5th gen. Just be careful not to loosen or tighten the adjusting part of the tie rod, and the length will not change, so an alignment won't be needed.

Nice write up! Good to see a chick getting car dirty for once!

[Shaar]

Great write up! Lots of pics and very detailed

Just want to add that as already mentioned, the pickle fork is a balljoint boot killer. If you have a bit of money to spare or work on cars a lot, I highly recommend this balljoint tool (about $25 if I remember right, cheaper than a good quality balljoint!). I use it for all balljoints and tierods. If you do use this, I recommend putting a nut on the end of the balljoint stud to keep it from crushing/damaging it.



As for the person saying to disconnect the tie rod, what I do is crank the steering wheel all the way opposite of the side your working on (eg:left side axle, turn wheels right). With the lower balljoint out, this pushes the entire knuckle out giving you more than enough room to pull the axle out of the tranny or halfshaft. I like to disconnect as little parts as possible.

The hub nut can be a huge pain. There was one cb that had one stuck on tight and I broke three 1/2" drive breaker bars trying to loosen it. So I bought a 3/4" drive 4' breaker bar and 36mm socket and that thing gets all hub nuts off (I don't even have to unstake it).

Oh, the 5speed tranny needs to have the mtf drained or it will pour out the hole when you remove the axle but autos don't need to have the fluid drained.

This tool has been an absolute lifesaver. I bought a quality KD Tools one and I can't stress how much this tool has made my life easier. I used to beat the living tar out of the lower BJ, and now i just tighten this tool on it until it scares the bejeezus out of me with the loud pop when it breaks free!

[TheNextEpisode]

How to get that axle nut off when the notch is on it? Would I just turn it until the notch is undone and turn the nut or should I unnotch it then turn the nut? I don't have air tools.
Thanks,

Just pound the notch back out in line with the circumference of the circle.
Banging it from the inside of the circle out, using a screwdriver/hammer, should do it fine.

[cb7remnant]

wow i wish i had know about that when i had to take mine apart a while back time for some shopping Awesome Job on the How to

[Bad_dude]

LadyG94CB7,
What brand of axle did you use? Is it a re-manufacture one or new one? Did it have the weigh balancer on it?

Thanks.

[LadyG]

I bought Advance Re-mans, and I am going to say that if you can afford to NOT get re-mans, DON'T get re-mans. I had to change out the Driver's side axle twice, because they gave me shitty ones.

I say its worth the extra 15-20 extra for new ones.

[Bad_dude]

I bought Advance Re-mans, and I am going to say that if you can afford to NOT get re-mans, DON'T get re-mans. I had to change out the Driver's side axle twice, because they gave me shitty ones.

I say its worth the extra 15-20 extra for new ones.

Thanks for getting back to me. The new ones are a little more but aren't those worse than the rem-mans? I have heard worse stories about those cheap NEW, made in China that does not meet the specs of the OEM. Also the boots don't last more than 8 months.

[Bad_dude]

LadyG94CB7

Did you have to remove the brake caliper?
Thanks.