You're very welcome! Sorry you're having to do it over again. I'm so happy this has been helpful. 
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Having changed axles in my manual CD5 3 times, 2 Teg's, and 4 CB7's, I've used the "Honda painless ball joint separation" from youtube. This only works if the car isn't lowered.
The reason I changed my own axles 3 times is because Autozone axles don't seem to NOT like manual cars. I had this terrible vibration between 2000-4000 RPM's after about a day of swapping them out. It seems that the axle's weren't balanced good enough for manual transmissions. I know that sounds crazy but keep reading. From my past experiences, for manual transmissions, I recommend Raxle or OEM. The automatic CB7's, CD5's, and tegs have not had any issues with the axles we purchased from Autozone. Makes me jealous b/c the Raxles or OEM aren't cheap! Some of the auto's that I have changed the axles are still rolling strong after 75,000 miles, no tears or clicks.
If you google "axle vibration honda" or "axle vibration integra" something of that nature, you will see what I'm talking about.
Just my 2 cents....
Honda painless ball joint separation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQComment
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you know i tried that and it didn't work for me, i personally like the ball joint separator, its all on personal preference, i know some use the haynes method of using a 2 claw puller or even a hammer...Originally posted by djkurious View PostComment
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You can use their pitman arm/tie rod separator for removing the ball joint too. My local autozone has 2 sizes, the smaller size was right for the job. The guys at the counter had no clue that it would work but I asked specifically for it when all they suggested was the pickle fork.Originally posted by 91hondaaccordlx View Post
Again, careful use of the pickle fork is probably fine. Your mileage may vary.
I do like the tip (given elsewhere above) about removing the the rod end. As an alternative to removing the ball joint.
As far as the various comments about muscle being important to (just about anything, but specifically to, say, removing the axle nut, I prefer clear technique and skillful application of leverage to muscle any day of the week. A four to 5 foot long steel bar slipped over your 1/2 inch breaker bar will break just any axle nut free and only costs like $10 at the local hardware store. All this preceded an hour before by a spray of PB Blast.Last edited by batever; 02-19-2011, 11:02 PM.Comment
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The one thing that is missing from this DIY from my perspective is how you get the axle out of the tranny in the first place. (I used a prybar between the tranny and the the outer bearing shell of the inner cv joint)). Did yours come out just by pulling on it?
Also important, but perhaps out of the scope of the DIY itself, but for newbies: how to secure the vehicle safely for the job as to get that axle out they will be under the vehicle. For a real newbie it would be nice to see that part too.Comment
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You know, to be totally honest, I didn't even consider that someone would NOT secure their car before getting under it.
And yeah, I pulled my axle out without a prob...
If you beat the axle loose from the hub and it is stuck in the intermediate shaft... really the only thing to do is pry it loose.
Perhaps using a big flat head screw driver and elbow grease?
I'd think whatever works, as long as you don't damage that intermediate shaft.Comment
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I use a two foot pipe I found. Slide it over the end of a quality ratchet(with lifetime warranty) and there's more leverage. you can even jump on it if muscles don't work.Originally posted by batever View Post
As far as pulling the CV out. don't waste energy pulling it by hand. I use a big flathead screwdriver every single time. pry it out and voila. as far as putting it back in, I've never heard of someone hammering their CV in place. That doesn't sound kosher to me. I've never had to do that. I just push it in till it clicks and i can't pull it back out again with a couple yanks on the inner joint housing. All that holds it in place is a circlip. the wheels will keep it from popping out. That's why you have to seperate the lower ball joint. it will not come out with the steering knuckle still attached to the lower control arm.
Don't hammer your cv into your transmission. Why would you beat on your transmission like that? it wont pop out with the knuckle back on.
Geoff... smh... are you trolling here? That really sounds like a troll statement. Why don't you hammer your transmission shaft into the clutch? DON'T HAMMER THE CV INTO PLACE. Just line up the splines and push until it pops in. Don't worry about it popping out. It wont with the knuckle holding it in place.
Don't make things too complicated guys. LadyG's tutorial was sufficient. Remember whatever you do, leverage is better than muscle any day. There is more power in my ratchet & pipe than my air-hammer could ever deliver.
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Perhaps the "Muscle Comments" happen because some of us are seriously lacking. (such as myself 5'3"@102lbs) Cheater bars work, but you still have to ass it. You work with what you got!
NO HAMMER is required for the CV to go into place.
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Size does not equal strength honey. Bigger is not always better. Bruce Lee was like 5'6" and 120lbs. He could overpower me if he was still alive. I'm 5'11" and 170lbs. He would overpower everyone I know to be honest.
The whole reason I put down the muscle comments is exactly what you said. People lacking in muscular strength are not going to beast the inner joint out of the transmission. Mechanical advantage is everyone's friend. Even if I can beast on something, I prefer to take it easy using leverage every time, over yelling and flexing like a madman.
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The reason that the axle is tough to put into the trans, and stays in, is the little c-clip towards the end of the splines. MAKE SURE THAT CLIP IS THERE BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE AXLE. The axle will fall out if its not there, happened to my dads CRX.
The painless balljiont separation method has always worked for me, I don't even have to kick it. I just lower the jack and it pops! You gotta wedge the tall side of the 1/2" ratchet handle in-between the knuckle and control arm. Pickle fork is not meant for Hondas, I've broken one trying.Comment
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Nofx!!!!
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you can also use a two-jaw puller and push up on the ball joint screw, but if done wrong you will shroom the nutComment
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I have an easy way to remove the lower ball joint. I've done it for both my accord axles and 2 of the driver axles in my s2000 when I broke them.
While the car is suspended on jack stands, take your jack, put a block of wood on it. Jack up the rotor a few inches. With this, it takes about 3 hammer hits on the lower control arm and the ball joint separates easily.
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