ENG: DIY cone filter intake using the factory rubber intake tubing

[CB9]

I'm sure lots of people have already done similar set-ups, but I took pictures, and I'm proud of my "ingenuity," so . . .

1) obtain a generic or K&N 3" cone filter (mine is made by OBX, its actual opening inside the clamped area is about 2 3/4")

2) Get a half pint can for paint/stain/whatever. Here's a online source, but they only sell in quantity -

http://www.bestcontainers.com/paint-cans.html

- I got mine at a local hardware store for $1.19. I looked all over the store for a pipe I could cut down, or some sort of PVC fitting. I found nothing that would even come close, so I started thinking about "alternative methods." You might find one in your closet with some paint in it, but I'd start with a perfectly clean new one if I were you. You could also try Maaco or another body shop; they should have these cans too.

Here's the stock setup on my '92 5-spd wagon -



Here's the filter I used -



Here's the paint can (it's about 2 3/4" in diameter) -



Steal the can opener from the kitchen drawer, lop off the top and the bottom of the can -



- and then stuff it into the stock intake piping. Make sure at least 1/2 of it is BEYOND the stock clamping area of the OEM rubber tubing (that area is bigger, and it'll be totally loose if you don't push it back far enough. Just leave about 3/4" of the can sticking out). Note that the inside surfaces of the paint can are coated, so nothing can rust aside from the very top and bottom edges.



I built a little bracket from a Sony car stereo backstrap that uses an existing 10mm bolt - it keeps the intake from flopping around loose, but the filter still moves a little when you rev it. Note that the strap is secured under the Phillip's head screw of the OEM honda hose clamp.



Tighten down the hoseclamps to secure the filter to the paint can, and to secure the bracket to the OEM rubber piping, and you're done!



Boo-yaa!!! Look at that monster-HP-producin' ghetto short ram!!!



Honestly, it made a BIG difference. I think there may be around 7-10 flywheel hp more above 4000 rpm. It's like I'm down at 3,000 less feet of altitude or something.

Nice Officer-Friendly-attracting intake honk at 1/2 to WOT now too . . .

[Fritz the Cat]

I did pretty much the same thing to my 3G when I still had it. I used a piece of 3 inch exhaust piping instead of the can though. Still, it made quite a difference! Good work!

[mickey_601]

I'm so ghetto cause ima try that today just to toy around with it for a while nice diy

[accordztech]

sweet but the 7-10hp is unlikley, more like 1 or 4 hp =)...still better than that stock air box.

congrats. you should make it cold air =)

[hemlockz]

haha, I just did this yesterday with an olive can! It sounded alrite, but while I was driving home something musta came loose, because now my car sounds really annoying under 3000k. There's a crazy choppy buzzing noise that sounds like its coming from the downpipe. When I coast down from ~3k it sounds like a divebombing bumble bee. I think If I retighted the can, or find a can that fits better it should fix the noise problem. Hell, I did it out of boredom.

The stock air hose is a superior intake for the following reasons:

1) unlike AEM, this is an actual short RAM of sorts. It is tapered from 3" down to the throttle body size (about 2 1/4" - 2 3/8") I think the taper increases velocity.

2) the thermo-plastic-rubber stuff doesn't conduct heat like an aluminum tube (AEM)

3) flawless fitment (obviously...) and finally.... FREE

[accordztech]

that humming is normal in cone intake systems like this, i think of it as a beEEffy intake =)

[ChIoVnIdCa]

Originally posted by hemlockz

2) the thermo-plastic-rubber stuff doesn't conduct heat like an aluminum tube (AEM)

The air moves so fast it dosent matter

[hemlockz]

Originally posted by ChIoVnIdCa
The air moves so fast it dosent matter

You should let Hondata know that then, because they make a heatshield intake manifold gasket designed to keep the IM cooler, and they claim gains. But if the air is moving so fast that is doesn't matter than I guess they are lying.

http://hondata.com/heatshield.html

Granted, you are probably right that it doesn't matter, at least on a non-turbo street car.

[CB9]

Originally posted by hemlockz
haha, I just did this yesterday with an olive can!

The stock air hose is a superior intake for the following reasons:

2) the thermo-plastic-rubber stuff doesn't conduct heat like an aluminum tube (AEM)

Speaking of things that really don't matter (much), I also considered a soup can or otherwise from the kitchen, but these containers have ribs in them that could disturb airflow velocity, whereas the 1/2 pint paint-can is perfectly smooth inside (then again, the OEM rubber intake tubing is not perfectly smooth inside either).

The "it matters/it'll heat soak into the air" vs the "it doesn't matter/the air's moving too fast" argument is very interesting to me.

I'm not intelligent or educated enough to have an opinion, but I'm familiar with both sides.

I have an AEM intake system on my Integra b/c I bought into the "air's moving too fast to matter" theory, but I also have phenolic spacers on my MR2T (as part of a comprehensive plan to reduce chance of detonation - water injection, low compression pistons, upgraded intercooler, intercooler fans, bypassed coolant lines to the throttle body, etc).

So what am I to think, other than I'm a big stupid hypocrite???

[theone]

i went form a after market air intake to this, did this last year, feels way stronger.

like hemlockz said, i think that 3inch end and 2.5 to the throttle body does something, i dont kno what but it works for me

[icedplaya123]

Hi where can i get the cheapest cone filter that is made with quality materials ?

Can any of you guys recommend me some brands with links and stuff

[theone]

i would say ebay.com has the cheapest

but for best quality...k&n

[CB9]

Originally posted by theone
i would say ebay.com has the cheapest

but for best quality...k&n

K&N is OK, but you should know that independent tests have proven (at least to me) that K&N filters give up filtration for power. I have a Greddy TD06 turbocharger on my Toyota MR2 that is has a K&N filter setup on it, and 3 months after I installed the turbo (brand spanking new), I noticed nicks and other small defects on the leading edge of the compressor wheel. The turbo was getting serviced, so I asked them (TEC) what those nicks were from, and the owner said straight away - "You're using a K&N filter, aren't you?" Apparently all sorts of stuff besides air was getting past my filter.

For best filtration and engine protection, stick with an OEM paper element, or for more power, use a foam filter element like a Amsoil or a Weapon R or a A'pexi . . . none of which are dirt cheap of course, but not much more than a K&N if you care about really protecting your engine internals from dirt and sand.

http://www.performancemotoroil.com/KN_test

You might take the above website info with a grain of sand (ha ha) since the info and test were put out by Amsoil themselves (and the test done by a Amsoil reseller)

[icedplaya123]

Hi do foam filters need to be oil up? will this size interfere sumhow under the hood?
What do you think about this one, its pink but iuno
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33659

[CB9]

I would think that the filtration and breathability (ie how well it flows without restriction) of a foam filter would depend HEAVILY on the type of foam (open cell or closed cell) and the consistency of the material.

So I guess in theory a unknown quality foam air filter off Ebay could be substantially different than an assumedly higher quality foam air filter sold by a name brand.

But this is just me thinking, not me claiming to state fact - I don't know.

Some foam filters are designed to be run dry, some wet - so again, I think it depends alot of what you're dealing with.