ENG: Custom short ram intake & heat sheild

[steelbluesleepR]

ok, i know its been a while since i said i would make this, but i just got lazy, so here it is now.

materials:
3" 90* heating duct form lowe's/home depot (the kind that rotates in sections from straight to 90* and anywhere in between) $3.00
3" cone muffler, mine is a ractive piece-part# sf-100 i believe-that i got from oreily's - $17.00
sheet metal at least 2' long and 12"wide- $9.00 at lowes
door bump-strip (the kind that slips on the edge of the door) $2.00
engine enamel paint (vht) $5.00
thin cardboard (cereal box)

tools:
10mm ratchet with extension
phillips screwdriver
tin snips
pencil
nail
drill

step 1:
remove the stock airbox, airbox bracket, and one of the pipes from the front bumper. i cant remember which pipe, but one of them gets in the way of the filter. it will be obvious later which one is needed out. install the heat duct into the end of the intake pipe.


step 2:
using the cardboard, make a template for the heat shield. use the nail to poke holes where the two bracket mounting holes are. cut the hole for the heat pipe.

step 3:
trasfer the template to the sheet metal and cut it out. drill holes (obviously) where the nail-holes on the template are. cut the 3" hole for the pipe. bend the sheet metal on the side of a bench or table into a 90* bend where needed. paint with engine enamel.


step 4:
line the edges of the heat sheild with the door bump-strip, install using the two bolts from the intake-box bracket. slide the heat pipe through the hole, and clamp filter onto the end (duh). the pipe is kind of flimsy and may need to be cut to fit the filter on.



step 5:
there is no more, you're done, except for closing the hood, putting your tools away, starting your car, and hearing it breathe past half-throttle

finished pic:

[HF22T]

id just like to say that dryer ducting is as restrictive as the oem tubing and to peel off the coating on the sheet metal or is that really bad paint match but otherwise good job now cut a *** lil scoop in the hood right above it
and seal it to the hood

[steelbluesleepR]

i just used the dryer duct to get the filter to the recess behind the battery. that paint is the engine enamel that i thought would match my paint pretty well (obviously my car wasn't in sight at the moment, lol) but has since been painted over in black. i plan on cutting a subtle "teardrop" vent above it when i eventually have my car painted S2000 steel blue, but that comes when i have the time and money to spend on all of my bodywork that i want done.
by the way, the heat sheild works really well, i can feel the difference in heat from the metal outside of it as opposed to the inside. i would like to get one of those wireless indoor/outdoor thermometers so i can place it a few different places in my engine bay to see the difference it really makes.

[Legacy Accord]

a little too ghetto for my taste

[d112crzy]

thats straight up hmt style. I like.

[h22sparkle]

not bad any gains ? but wont the actual tubing get hot or become hot anyways. ?

[Spartan1987]

Ok it's a great idea and I give mad props for you attempting something on your own, BUT... Sheet metal is going to conduct heat anyways and now it's going directly into the filter as opposed to just being all over the engine bay.
I would suggest using a second heat shield cut out exactly like you've got, and then using an insulator in between and sealing it together. That would probably be even better than the crappy heat resistant plastic that AEM and APC and other companies use to cover their SRIs. I might suggest using either fiberglass insulation or the spray foam stuff. That's my opinion, and I don't like ghetto when I do something myself.
Good write up.

[Michalob]

Sweet DIY in my opinion. Ill be heading up lowes tonight to try this one out. I had the idea of using rubber coating for the sheet metal to better insulate it, as well as make it black. I'm sure this will help out my h22 breathe better. Thanks for the idea!

[JTEK24]

I tried heat resistant wrap for the sheet metal and the temps are alot cooler, even the factory air duct that sits on the fender near the battery and passenger side headlight helps out with the fresh air coming in. big difference

[seigneur_rayden]

[QUOTE=steelbluesleepR]ok, i know its been a while since i said i would make this, but i just got lazy, so here it is now.

materials:
3" 90* heating duct form lowe's/home depot (the kind that rotates in sections from straight to 90* and anywhere in between) $3.00
3" cone muffler, mine is a ractive piece-part# sf-100 i believe-that i got from oreily's - $17.00
sheet metal at least 2' long and 12"wide- $9.00 at lowes
door bump-strip (the kind that slips on the edge of the door) $2.00
engine enamel paint (vht) $5.00
thin cardboard (cereal box)

TOTAL COST: $36.00 + sweat + gas + time + stress caused by doubt

Why not just buy a cheap short ram or CAI from ebay (< $36)? It would look and work a lot better. I admire the creativity but it's just to ghetto.

[zipcreature]

Def a good effort; atleast you are thinking along the lines of getting fresh air as opposed to the ambient hot engine air! I def approve 1 thumb up.

What might help is if you glue some styrofoam or some other heat resisting material to the inside of the intake. I might make this in a while when I have free time.

Caio, Daniel

[TypeG]

have you had any problem with rust yet? later.

[zipcreature]

Where are the pics.

- Zipcreature

[maroonaccord2.2]

thats straight up hmt style. I like.

Damn, I'm with d112crzy....probably not the best pipe but the heat shield looks bad-ass! Overall, I dig it....

Damn those who bag on ya, some of them will never live to make their own DIYs.

[birdman86]

very nice, cheap, but should be effective