Better Pics. now you dont have to read 2 threads to understand...
Ok, I don't know if any has seen this I can't take credit for it but It might help some. If this is wrong to do please explain why and what the purpose of the cooling lines throught the TB is.
Free Hp...Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Instructions w/ pictures!!!
This is pretty much a FREE MOD. I know all you out there like free engine upgrades.
Well this is pretty much an easy DIY that adds some HP, not sure how much. Can guarantee that it does because what you are doing with this MOD is eliminating a coolant line that runs through your TB. Thus lowering the air temp. that runs through.
I suggest that you only do this if you live where it stays pretty much warm all year, or that you hook it back up in the winter.
I’ve asked around and people on other sites say that the purpose of this is to prevent the Butterfly in the TB from freezing up in the cold season.
There is a color code in the letters...
RED means you just totally disconnect those
BLUE you will connect back together
WHITE is just a guide so you know where you are in the engine bay
Oh yes, don’t do like Donny Don’t and do this mod when your car cooling system is still hot.
That way you won’t spill hot coolant on yourself.
You'll need…
1.Needle nose pliers to remove the clamps and to pull off the hoses
2.Extra coolant in case you spill too much
3.Pick up coolant hose from Auto Zone or where ever to make the necessary connections.
I took the intake piping off so it would be easier to work with. Disconnect points A and B. The hose that came from A will connect to point C, and the hose that came from B, you just put aside. Some hoses are easier to connect that others, so switch them around as you like just as long as you get point C to connect with point D.
Does the metal pipe at E look familiar? There's a coolant line that runs through there so I just moved it under the intake pipe. F is the main coolant line that runs back to the radiator. D is located just above F, near the block. The next picture illustrates that the best:
Once you get C to connect D using any combination of hose length, then you're pretty much finished. This is what the final layout should look like:
For your reference, the stock flow goes from A to B to E to D. Points A and B are input and output from the throttle body. We simply bypass those by adding the point C and connecting it to E. I have no clue how much power this MOD will provide.
Ok, I don't know if any has seen this I can't take credit for it but It might help some. If this is wrong to do please explain why and what the purpose of the cooling lines throught the TB is.
Free Hp...Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Instructions w/ pictures!!!
This is pretty much a FREE MOD. I know all you out there like free engine upgrades.
Well this is pretty much an easy DIY that adds some HP, not sure how much. Can guarantee that it does because what you are doing with this MOD is eliminating a coolant line that runs through your TB. Thus lowering the air temp. that runs through.
I suggest that you only do this if you live where it stays pretty much warm all year, or that you hook it back up in the winter.
I’ve asked around and people on other sites say that the purpose of this is to prevent the Butterfly in the TB from freezing up in the cold season.
There is a color code in the letters...
RED means you just totally disconnect those
BLUE you will connect back together
WHITE is just a guide so you know where you are in the engine bay
Oh yes, don’t do like Donny Don’t and do this mod when your car cooling system is still hot.
That way you won’t spill hot coolant on yourself.
You'll need…
1.Needle nose pliers to remove the clamps and to pull off the hoses
2.Extra coolant in case you spill too much
3.Pick up coolant hose from Auto Zone or where ever to make the necessary connections.
I took the intake piping off so it would be easier to work with. Disconnect points A and B. The hose that came from A will connect to point C, and the hose that came from B, you just put aside. Some hoses are easier to connect that others, so switch them around as you like just as long as you get point C to connect with point D.
Does the metal pipe at E look familiar? There's a coolant line that runs through there so I just moved it under the intake pipe. F is the main coolant line that runs back to the radiator. D is located just above F, near the block. The next picture illustrates that the best:
Once you get C to connect D using any combination of hose length, then you're pretty much finished. This is what the final layout should look like:
For your reference, the stock flow goes from A to B to E to D. Points A and B are input and output from the throttle body. We simply bypass those by adding the point C and connecting it to E. I have no clue how much power this MOD will provide.
No, I am not ref. to the idle screw, I am referring to the "Stop" for the throttle rotor. It's what stops the throttle rotor at a certain point, preventing it from getting stuck from the spring's tension when you let off on the throttle. I do not have any pics, but find the throttle rotor 
and look directly to the right and down @ about 4 o'clock (pretend the rotor is a clock). There's a set screw w/ a lock nut, you can adjust that "UP" slightly so the plate doesn't go too much vertical in the t/b, causing it to stick. This is set from the factory but since you have a JG T/B, someone may have messed w/ it.
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