This is directly quoted from Andrew on Accordinglydone.com I figured many people would find this interesting and a big help. I think I may just have to do this mod 
But thanks to Andrew....
But thanks to Andrew....
Well, already in a week I've put on 1200 miles! (I drive a lot!). No oil leaks, no funkyness what-so-ever... I got my VTEC problem figured out, I cleaned out the solenoid and it started working fine.
So here is the work-in-progress... some of you have seen it on HT, but that site annoys me too much and so lets work on it here:
PS: I'll be adding various illustrations soon, so keep posted!
=============================================
In the quest for more power for my Accord I came to the conclusion that a turbo was the only thing that was going to make me happy. I toyed with the idea of the Eclipse manifold rig job or having something made. After seeing impressive dyno results of the SOHC VTEC engines with boost I decided that I must have this feature. I didn't really want to pull out my bottom end though. Knowing that the F series is MOSTLY identical to eachother (save the F23's which have different sleeves etc) I figured I could just plop a F22B1 head on the car. Another
factor in this decision is the abundance of off the shelf turbo kits for the 94+ Accords. Having a manifold fabricated is a cool idea, but I just rather have an off the shelf kit. Whats really great about doing this is the price. Most swap-shops are trying to GIVE away F series engines...
What you begin with:
Well what better way to start off this how-to but with a parts list. My parts list assumes you have a 4th gen Accord. If you're a 5th gen owner you wont need the intake manifold, so just use your head on the rest. I'll also list the places and prices I paid:
1.) F22B1 head; (eBay - $100.00) You'll need a valve cover too... which I got off a forum member for $30.00.
2.) F22B1 or B2 Intake manifold & throttle body THIS INCLUDES THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING!!!; (Forum Member - $50.00)
3.) 94+ water intake hardpipe (water pump to the thermostat housing); (Forum Member - $5.00)
4.) Timing belt (the 94+ EX are specific due to the head being slightly taller!); (AutoZone - $45.00)
4.) P0A ECU; (Forum Member - $35.00)
6.) All associated seals & gaskets (Depends, but figure $100-120 if you're being smart and replacing old seals);
7.) Exhaust manifold that'll fit a 94+; (Forum Member - Free)
8.) 94+ Throttle Cable; (AutoZone - $22.00)
9.) Proper spark plug wires. (AutoZone - $45.00)
Tools what will make this job a lot easier or you flat out need:
1.) Brass scraper (dont ass up your aluminum block & head scraping on it... be smart and use a brass scraper).
2.) Crank pulley tool (I don't know how I ever survived without this)
3.) Of course you'll need varying levels of torque wrenches, don't even attempt this without proper torque wrenches.
Abbreviations:
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor;
IM = Intake Manifold
TB = Throttle body
VTS = VTEC spool solenoid
VTP = VTEC pressure sensor
IAC = Intake Air Control (called EACV on older hondas... what I'm used to)
EM = Exhaust manifold
IAB = Intake Air Bypass solenoid
Taking it apart:
I'm not going to dwell on this too much. If you're going to attempt this you damn well better have a service manual! Basically keep taking things off until you have a bare head in front of you. My engine was leaking oil pretty bad from the oil pan and front main seal. Since you'll be up there to replace the timing belt anyway why not change all those too? I also took this time to really degrease and clean my engine, transmission and compartment.
So, in review heres everything I replaced/freshened up:
1.) I removed the oil pump housing and made sure the oil pump rotors were within service limits.
2.) Replaced all orings, front main seal, and balance shaft seals.
3.) througly cleaned and scraped the oilpan and oilpan mating surfaces & replaced the gasket.
Assuming you're a 4th gen owner, go ahead and pull out the water intake hardpipe on the back of the block use it to launch a bottlerocket or something. Install the 94+ pipe and call it good.
Prepping the head/block & others:
In todays world of multiple-layer metal head gaskets, head/block trueness & cleanliness are of utmost importance ...if you want a head gasket that wont pop on you in 20 miles. Throughly scrape the head and block with a brass scraper. Caution must still be taken even with a brass scraper to not nick or gouge the delicate aluminum surfaces. Hopefully you took the time to clean the engine compartment, block & head before reassembly as well! Also take care that pieces of old gasket & muck dont fall into the oil gallery drains or water jackets by using rags.
On the bench go ahead and bolt the intake manifold to the head if it isnt already. Its just way easier on the bench.
Finally for us 4th gen owners... there is a bit of business we need to do on our heads. In 1994 Honda redesigned the F series a bit on the front middle head bolt region. They added a little ledge that covers/seals a water casting hole from when the head is molded. They use those to sand cast the aluminum. Why is that a problem you ask, well as I found out (the hardway I might add) without that ledge it LEAKS water (pours is more accurate). Therefore it MUST BE SEALED. I used a crapload of JBweld (I love this stuff!). Feel free to seal it however you please, but do it or enjoy no cooling system. Once again this only applys to 4th gen owners. I assure you this hole is only a sand casting drain and on the 5th gens is totally sealed by the headgasket against the ledge.
Prepping the wiring harness:
For the most part this will remain unchanged, but a couple things do need to be added and one item moved. You'll be adding 3 wires:
1.) VTEC solenoid trigger
2.) VTEC pressure sender
3.) ground wire for VTEC pressure sender
Add these 3 wires to the thermostat housing/EGR area of the wiring harness and we'll discuss ECU pinouts later in the how-to.
Now the item that needs to be moved is the IAC / EACV (whatever you wanna call it) plug & wires [2]. You'll find this plug on the plastic injector wiring bar. Open the plastic injector wiring bar and pull out as much of it as you can from there. Cut the connector off and untape the harness enough to get the 2 wires heading toward the TPS sensor connector. You're going to have to solder about 12-14" of wire to make it reach. I just loomed the TPS & IAC together and made a Y so they could reach their respective recepticals. As I said earlier this is the OPTIMAL time
to totally retape & loom the wiring harness if yours looks bad like mine did.
Finally you're going to have to make a choice on the MAP sensor. You can either A.) find a connector in the junkyard that will fit the MAP on the TB or B.) reuse your MAP sensor and just run a long piece of vacuum hose over to the drivers side of the IM. I chose option B for right now. If you're a 5th gen owner this doesnt apply to you.
Prepping the ECU:
This was really easy for me. While I do have brand new pushpins (hey I used to do a lot of motorswaps) I reused what WAS my automatic rear motormount solenoid (this is also the IAB on 90-93 EX models or anything else that was equiped with IAB) and powersteering (I removed mine) pressure sender pins. If you didn't already know Honda was really nice and you can snap open the connectors on the ECU side and move pins around. No matter WHAT way you decide to do this you need to add two pins: D6 (VTP) and A4 (VTS) [See wiring harness pinout chart I've included]. The VTP ground... well just ground it anywhere. It doesnt matter, its just a simple on/off pressure switch.
NOW for 4th gen owners we get to do a little more work/make a choice. In 1994 Honda decided to swap pins A11 and A6 (EGR & 02 Heater respectivly). To my knowledge this is the only OBDI car Honda did this on. ANYWAY your choices are as following:
1.) Swap pins A11 & A6 while you have connector "A" apart adding VTP. You're going to have to actually cut and solder them though. Unfortunatly A6 is a big pin and A11 is a small pin (two different pin sizes are used in our harnesses).
2.) Open up the P0A ECU and cut A11 & A6 and reverse them via internal modification (IE: wires crossing them... see attached picture).
I chose option 2 because I do a lot of ECU testing and changing my harnesses pinout for one lousy ECU isnt in the cards.
Anyway thats it for wiring. Go ahead and put the wiring harness back on the car as its much easier to do with the head off.
[img] http://dolemite.dyndns.org/albums/album70/OBDI_Pins.jpg[/img]
Reassembly of head to block:
Once again we wont dwell here too much, its pretty self explainitory with a manual. Just remember to make sure your
head bolt holes are clean and the head bolts are clean * oiled with fresh engine oil. Three or 4 stage them down to 78 ft. lbs using the proper tightening sequence. Make sure the bottomend & head were set to TDC properly!!! You dont wanna bang pistons on valves rotating stuff around! I guess the only real advice I have here is make sure that your mating surfaces on the block & head are CLEAN and DIRT FREE.
So here is the work-in-progress... some of you have seen it on HT, but that site annoys me too much and so lets work on it here:
PS: I'll be adding various illustrations soon, so keep posted!
=============================================
In the quest for more power for my Accord I came to the conclusion that a turbo was the only thing that was going to make me happy. I toyed with the idea of the Eclipse manifold rig job or having something made. After seeing impressive dyno results of the SOHC VTEC engines with boost I decided that I must have this feature. I didn't really want to pull out my bottom end though. Knowing that the F series is MOSTLY identical to eachother (save the F23's which have different sleeves etc) I figured I could just plop a F22B1 head on the car. Another
factor in this decision is the abundance of off the shelf turbo kits for the 94+ Accords. Having a manifold fabricated is a cool idea, but I just rather have an off the shelf kit. Whats really great about doing this is the price. Most swap-shops are trying to GIVE away F series engines...
What you begin with:
Well what better way to start off this how-to but with a parts list. My parts list assumes you have a 4th gen Accord. If you're a 5th gen owner you wont need the intake manifold, so just use your head on the rest. I'll also list the places and prices I paid:
1.) F22B1 head; (eBay - $100.00) You'll need a valve cover too... which I got off a forum member for $30.00.
2.) F22B1 or B2 Intake manifold & throttle body THIS INCLUDES THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING!!!; (Forum Member - $50.00)
3.) 94+ water intake hardpipe (water pump to the thermostat housing); (Forum Member - $5.00)
4.) Timing belt (the 94+ EX are specific due to the head being slightly taller!); (AutoZone - $45.00)
4.) P0A ECU; (Forum Member - $35.00)
6.) All associated seals & gaskets (Depends, but figure $100-120 if you're being smart and replacing old seals);
7.) Exhaust manifold that'll fit a 94+; (Forum Member - Free)
8.) 94+ Throttle Cable; (AutoZone - $22.00)
9.) Proper spark plug wires. (AutoZone - $45.00)
Tools what will make this job a lot easier or you flat out need:
1.) Brass scraper (dont ass up your aluminum block & head scraping on it... be smart and use a brass scraper).
2.) Crank pulley tool (I don't know how I ever survived without this)
3.) Of course you'll need varying levels of torque wrenches, don't even attempt this without proper torque wrenches.
Abbreviations:
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor;
IM = Intake Manifold
TB = Throttle body
VTS = VTEC spool solenoid
VTP = VTEC pressure sensor
IAC = Intake Air Control (called EACV on older hondas... what I'm used to)
EM = Exhaust manifold
IAB = Intake Air Bypass solenoid
Taking it apart:
I'm not going to dwell on this too much. If you're going to attempt this you damn well better have a service manual! Basically keep taking things off until you have a bare head in front of you. My engine was leaking oil pretty bad from the oil pan and front main seal. Since you'll be up there to replace the timing belt anyway why not change all those too? I also took this time to really degrease and clean my engine, transmission and compartment.
So, in review heres everything I replaced/freshened up:
1.) I removed the oil pump housing and made sure the oil pump rotors were within service limits.
2.) Replaced all orings, front main seal, and balance shaft seals.
3.) througly cleaned and scraped the oilpan and oilpan mating surfaces & replaced the gasket.
Assuming you're a 4th gen owner, go ahead and pull out the water intake hardpipe on the back of the block use it to launch a bottlerocket or something. Install the 94+ pipe and call it good.
Prepping the head/block & others:
In todays world of multiple-layer metal head gaskets, head/block trueness & cleanliness are of utmost importance ...if you want a head gasket that wont pop on you in 20 miles. Throughly scrape the head and block with a brass scraper. Caution must still be taken even with a brass scraper to not nick or gouge the delicate aluminum surfaces. Hopefully you took the time to clean the engine compartment, block & head before reassembly as well! Also take care that pieces of old gasket & muck dont fall into the oil gallery drains or water jackets by using rags.
On the bench go ahead and bolt the intake manifold to the head if it isnt already. Its just way easier on the bench.
Finally for us 4th gen owners... there is a bit of business we need to do on our heads. In 1994 Honda redesigned the F series a bit on the front middle head bolt region. They added a little ledge that covers/seals a water casting hole from when the head is molded. They use those to sand cast the aluminum. Why is that a problem you ask, well as I found out (the hardway I might add) without that ledge it LEAKS water (pours is more accurate). Therefore it MUST BE SEALED. I used a crapload of JBweld (I love this stuff!). Feel free to seal it however you please, but do it or enjoy no cooling system. Once again this only applys to 4th gen owners. I assure you this hole is only a sand casting drain and on the 5th gens is totally sealed by the headgasket against the ledge.
Prepping the wiring harness:
For the most part this will remain unchanged, but a couple things do need to be added and one item moved. You'll be adding 3 wires:
1.) VTEC solenoid trigger
2.) VTEC pressure sender
3.) ground wire for VTEC pressure sender
Add these 3 wires to the thermostat housing/EGR area of the wiring harness and we'll discuss ECU pinouts later in the how-to.
Now the item that needs to be moved is the IAC / EACV (whatever you wanna call it) plug & wires [2]. You'll find this plug on the plastic injector wiring bar. Open the plastic injector wiring bar and pull out as much of it as you can from there. Cut the connector off and untape the harness enough to get the 2 wires heading toward the TPS sensor connector. You're going to have to solder about 12-14" of wire to make it reach. I just loomed the TPS & IAC together and made a Y so they could reach their respective recepticals. As I said earlier this is the OPTIMAL time
to totally retape & loom the wiring harness if yours looks bad like mine did.
Finally you're going to have to make a choice on the MAP sensor. You can either A.) find a connector in the junkyard that will fit the MAP on the TB or B.) reuse your MAP sensor and just run a long piece of vacuum hose over to the drivers side of the IM. I chose option B for right now. If you're a 5th gen owner this doesnt apply to you.
Prepping the ECU:
This was really easy for me. While I do have brand new pushpins (hey I used to do a lot of motorswaps) I reused what WAS my automatic rear motormount solenoid (this is also the IAB on 90-93 EX models or anything else that was equiped with IAB) and powersteering (I removed mine) pressure sender pins. If you didn't already know Honda was really nice and you can snap open the connectors on the ECU side and move pins around. No matter WHAT way you decide to do this you need to add two pins: D6 (VTP) and A4 (VTS) [See wiring harness pinout chart I've included]. The VTP ground... well just ground it anywhere. It doesnt matter, its just a simple on/off pressure switch.
NOW for 4th gen owners we get to do a little more work/make a choice. In 1994 Honda decided to swap pins A11 and A6 (EGR & 02 Heater respectivly). To my knowledge this is the only OBDI car Honda did this on. ANYWAY your choices are as following:
1.) Swap pins A11 & A6 while you have connector "A" apart adding VTP. You're going to have to actually cut and solder them though. Unfortunatly A6 is a big pin and A11 is a small pin (two different pin sizes are used in our harnesses).
2.) Open up the P0A ECU and cut A11 & A6 and reverse them via internal modification (IE: wires crossing them... see attached picture).
I chose option 2 because I do a lot of ECU testing and changing my harnesses pinout for one lousy ECU isnt in the cards.
Anyway thats it for wiring. Go ahead and put the wiring harness back on the car as its much easier to do with the head off.
[img] http://dolemite.dyndns.org/albums/album70/OBDI_Pins.jpg[/img]
Reassembly of head to block:
Once again we wont dwell here too much, its pretty self explainitory with a manual. Just remember to make sure your
head bolt holes are clean and the head bolts are clean * oiled with fresh engine oil. Three or 4 stage them down to 78 ft. lbs using the proper tightening sequence. Make sure the bottomend & head were set to TDC properly!!! You dont wanna bang pistons on valves rotating stuff around! I guess the only real advice I have here is make sure that your mating surfaces on the block & head are CLEAN and DIRT FREE.
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