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ENG: D.I.Y front motor mount (Torque Mount)

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    #16
    +rep for this DIY... I wander around TSC enough, can't believe I didn't think of this.

    Jarrett: Your mom's a sweet lady, but I'm suprised she didn't zap you back with the prod!

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      #17
      Originally posted by Jarrett View Post

      Anyway...great DIY. I'd like to see some long-term reviews on how well the rubber holds up in that application.
      The rubber doesn't do anything besides fill the gap, this is a solid mount. I used steel washers instead of the rubber when I made mine, the rubber looks better though.

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        #18
        No parts numbers or links to bar?
        My 91 ex coupe
        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb//showthread.php?t=189841

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          #19
          http://www.tractorsupply.com/countyl...-short-1000794
          CountyLineŽ Adjustable Top Link, Cat. 0, Short
          SKU Number: 1000794

          Manufacturers Number: S010909TSC
          Brand: CountyLineŽ
          Thread Size: 3/4 in. NC
          Hitch Category: 0
          Minimum Body Length: 11 in.
          Maximum Body Length: 16 in.
          Socket Size: 5/8 in.

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            #20
            Keep an eye on it. You've replaced the steel tube/spacer at both ends of the original mount that transferred the load to only a shear load (and some friction from clamping the tubes between sides of the bracket) through the bolt at both ends with just the bolt going across; so now the bolts are loaded in bending. The longer one on top will probably be the first to fail. It would have been better if you could get the spacers out of the original mount and rod ends on the link that they would fit through.
            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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              #21
              Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
              Keep an eye on it. You've replaced the steel tube/spacer at both ends of the original mount that transferred the load to only a shear load (and some friction from clamping the tubes between sides of the bracket) through the bolt at both ends with just the bolt going across; so now the bolts are loaded in bending. The longer one on top will probably be the first to fail. It would have been better if you could get the spacers out of the original mount and rod ends on the link that they would fit through.
              Yes, you need a steel collar through the rubber pieces. Otherwise good work.
              There are no black and white suspension answers!!!!!!!!!!!

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                #22
                Sry for reviving an old thread but how has this held up for those that did this?

                Will this fail overtime like the OEM part?
                92 DX Sedan - Auto

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