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    How to check for bent valves w/ HEAD OFF

    Okay I haven't seen a thread on this method on bent valves it's pretty simple actually. if this hasn't been cover can some make this a sticky. I did this since I had my h22 taken apart.

    12mm sockect
    10mm socket
    Cup of of gas


    1. you need remove the cam caps (H22)or rocker assembly (f22)by removing the the 10 12mm bolts and 4 10mm bolts, for h22's it's 20 12 mm bolts and 8 10 mm bolts. in this order (note that 1-10 are 12mm bolts and 11-14 are 10)mm bolts. On H22's it the same order on both exhaust cam and Intake cam

    On f22's it is crucial that you do not remove the bolts from the caps of the rocker assembly.

    Removal order


    14 10 6 2 4 8 12

    13 9 5 1 3 7 11

    The head should look like this with no cam(s)


    2.Turn the head on to it's side


    3.With a cup of water fill each port with water.


    4. With the water fiiled chamber(s) check for water trickles. If water leaks from any valves then that is your bent valve(s).



    Repeat on the process with the other side of the head


    I had no bent valves on either head.

    Tell me what you guys think
    Last edited by Darkcloud; 10-12-2009, 08:08 PM.
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    old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

    new
    DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

    #2
    Nice bro! good reference for the near future haha...
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      #3
      that will let you know if they aren't sealing well. I had a valve leak water past it just after a valve job, turned out to just have some carbon stuck to the backside of the valve keeping it from sealing. If I had just run the motor for a while it would have been just fine....
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        #4
        i heard from some where they say not to use Water but to use gasoline or petroleum product


        Good DIY

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          #5
          Originally posted by XcluziveAZN View Post
          i heard from some where they say not to use Water but to use gasoline or petroleum product


          Good DIY
          Thanx

          I used water because it what I had available, besides I'm going to rebuild the head soon. Plus I didn't let the water sit for that long only a few seconds so no harm really, but thanx for the heads up.
          NEW CB



          old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

          new
          DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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            #6
            Water = Rust
            wat?

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              #7
              Originally posted by C91BLX7 View Post
              Water = Rust

              Fixed
              NEW CB



              old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

              new
              DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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                #8
                you can also look physically. if it doesnt look obvious but still leaks water the head might have just got hot and warped which will warp the seats.

                that isnt that common with a a DOHC head though.
                I <3 G60.

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                  #9
                  Just for reference next time.... what you did will work but there is a MUCH easier way.

                  1. take valve cover off
                  2. get yourself a regular hammer
                  3. get yourself a 6" or 8" extension
                  4. you dont have to take the head off but you do have to take the cam caps off to relieve pressure on valves
                  5. start anywhere that you can remember, the obvious easiest is on the corner of one side...
                  6. tape the end of the extension up nice but not all big just so it does not make scratches in surface from metal to metal
                  7. next take the extension in one hand and hold firmly but in place over one of the valves touching the top of the valve retainer.... then hit it with the hammer till you feel it bounce.... if it bounces and does not bounce back.... then it is bent....


                  you can verify this with a quick glance down while the cam caps are off as this is easily verifiable....
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                    #10
                    this is a good diy. great job, a lot of good DIYs coming form you man.

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                      #11
                      using the water technique is not a very good way to check for valves. The only proper way to check for a bent valve is to remove the valves individually and check for straitness. I have personally seen on quite a few heads that a valve may see when closed because of the spring pressure holding and sealing it up against the seat but once the valve is pushed down i could visibly see the valve "slide" back out of place showing its true bent state.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by da9b16 View Post
                        Just for reference next time.... what you did will work but there is a MUCH easier way.

                        1. take valve cover off
                        2. get yourself a regular hammer
                        3. get yourself a 6" or 8" extension
                        4. you dont have to take the head off but you do have to take the cam caps off to relieve pressure on valves
                        5. start anywhere that you can remember, the obvious easiest is on the corner of one side...
                        6. tape the end of the extension up nice but not all big just so it does not make scratches in surface from metal to metal
                        7. next take the extension in one hand and hold firmly but in place over one of the valves touching the top of the valve retainer.... then hit it with the hammer till you feel it bounce.... if it bounces and does not bounce back.... then it is bent....


                        you can verify this with a quick glance down while the cam caps are off as this is easily verifiable....

                        I would choose method above over the fluid into ports for bent valves.

                        I too use fluid in ports to verify valve job seal (quick reference) with head removed.
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                          #13
                          Originally posted by da9b16 View Post
                          Just for reference next time.... what you did will work but there is a MUCH easier way.

                          1. take valve cover off
                          2. get yourself a regular hammer
                          3. get yourself a 6" or 8" extension
                          4. you dont have to take the head off but you do have to take the cam caps off to relieve pressure on valves
                          5. start anywhere that you can remember, the obvious easiest is on the corner of one side...
                          6. tape the end of the extension up nice but not all big just so it does not make scratches in surface from metal to metal
                          7. next take the extension in one hand and hold firmly but in place over one of the valves touching the top of the valve retainer.... then hit it with the hammer till you feel it bounce.... if it bounces and does not bounce back.... then it is bent....


                          you can verify this with a quick glance down while the cam caps are off as this is easily verifiable....
                          I never knew of this method.

                          I did this way because I bought 2 h22 heads and decided to check,but I'm going to replace the valves in both heads anyway. thanx for the heads up man
                          NEW CB



                          old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

                          new
                          DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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                            #14
                            on a side note h23 valves/ b18 valves are IDENTICAL
                            I dont recall h22 being the same as b18c or b16 BUT there is is an optional b20 head stamped p8f that has 1mm larger valves that are IDENTICAL to b18/b16/b17 where as the other b20 head is stamped p75 which is a b18 head.

                            On to the h22 valves I will try and to take a look at my old head swaps and info I have accumulated over the years to verify this just for references later.

                            BTW- Darkcloud.... your way will indeed work BUT if you have any kind of carbon build up and it happens to have chipped or have some debris settle in between the valve seats while laying on its side it will cause a leak.... thinking you have a bent valve when you really do not..... ask me how I know!! Other than that your method will work... I was definitely not knocking you for that idea just trying to make it easier on you.....

                            even with the head off you can still do the hammer and extension or punch method then if you think you have one bent turn the head over and look to see if it is seated..... if not then clean the combustion chambers up really nice with some oven cleaner (yes I said oven cleaner) or some degreaser like AWESOME (yes it is called awesome and it comes in a clear bottle but is yellow liquid and looks just like piss in a squirt bottle) you can get the AWESOME from any local Dollar Tree or family dollar/ or Dollar General... it is amazing stuff... use it straight......do not dilute it. Clean the combustion chambers up with that stuff and some wd-40 or whatever you have sometimes a combo iof wd-40 or brake cleaner and a soft toothbrush works wonders.... then do your tap method or even your method....

                            Lastly a bent valve on the ex side if still in vehicle and not bent bad will produce a low hissing noise.... ask me how I know.... hahahaha... I bent an ex valve in a gsr at 13k rpms... 3 in the morning and changed it in a Kroger grocery store parking lot on the spot.... Used a tennis ball and pulled the head and replaced it right there. NO FUN... I happened to have a BLOWN up b16 head in my trunk so I took the 3 good valves it had in it out and repaired the b18c.... On the road in 1hr 12 minutes.

                            Just a thought... to try and help.This is for all the BALLERS ON A BUDGET LIKE ME that do not have the funds or access to equipment and to machine shops. Hope it helps you guys out....
                            WAGONS

                            94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thats cool but as I recall they used some sort of alcohol based product like windshield washer fluid as it is thinner instead of water. An easier way would be to get a leak down tester and put all the valves to TDC compression stroke (both valves should be closed at this time) and see if it leaks through the valves. You can usually hear it pretty well if it is. Thats if you have the head in the car though not out =D.

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