ENG: diy plenum spacer

[93twodoorLX]

how did you do the iab box delete?

You just ran the hose from the intake manifold straight to the nipple of the iab plate?

in reguards to this question yes i did just run a line from the manifold to the IAB actuator, BUT not just plain and simple, I added a smalled orifice vaccum fitting inline between the manifold inlet and the actuator inlet to allow less vaccum to run to the actuator. therefore it will only open under greater vaccum (about 60% throttle) instead of 30% throttle like it would without the reduction fitting. Thats the best way i can explain how i did it. Note: doing this helped my bottom end under light throttle but still allows for IAB actuation for top end at WOT. It seems to me that doing this allows me to get decent get mileage for put putting and decent, throaty topend aswell.

-sean

[KeeleDesign]

ok so what im going to do instead of over generalize and make senerios im going to say again that i was giving MY impression on the DIY, I explained how i felt about it on MY f22a1 not h22 or h23 or VTAK JDMness. and also in respects to your claims that it "moves" your power band, then yes you are partially right, BUT it does not take any power away from any part of you powerband. i suggest you study the dyno chart my friend

http://www.blacktrax.net/productlink..._IMSF22A6.html

the addition of the spacer moved the peak power sooner in the powerband but it did not rob HP OR TQ from anywhere in the entire powerband. In respects to the redundancy factor you are utterly misunderstanding me yet again, I said that they are a redundancy in HEAT TRANSFER, NOT radiant heat which you are obviously making reference of i'd say. Like i tried to help everyone understand is that metal touching metal is heat transfer which the phenolic spacer reduces, I'd rather protect the ENTIRE manifold from heat transfer rather then just the upper plenum, plus with most members having coolant line attached to the upper plenum the a phenolic IMS is fighting the inevitable because it like locking your doors with a robber IN your house. you dont have to take my criticism of your misunderstanding personal, your theory just seems a little uninformed. I'm not sure how else to acurately explain myself.

-sean

I have yet to see in my post a critical aggression torward you or you post.
If you are taking my comments to heart, and feeling like your being attacked, I'm sorry, You must have misread.

As for you assuming that i have not had dyno experience,
I can personally say we have never used a DynaPack dyno... so it makes me question what a different type might yield, in the same condition this testing was done..

I have also yet to see a dyno that produces the exzact same #'s every time. So questioning my experience is far from the point..
In the mentions of this,, are you going off your own testing or the chart that was posted on the website?

I am happy you somewhat retracted your comment, and went back and said what your personal experience was, instead of trying to dismember how mine reacted to these mods.
No motor is the same... and the meir fact that mine is 11:5:1 compression, with lighter psitons, may honestly attribute to the whole different scenerio of how mine reacts compared to yours..

As for mine, my powerband did change, it wasn't just a kinda feel a difference their was a big difference., and for the automatic,, it was better having a lil more low end power.

I really do enjoy smart discussions, please don't feel i am trying to do any more than that. people will read this thread years to come, and appriciate the fact, we including you gave accurate description of what these mods did for us.

as for the IM gasket... your wording was slighly confusing.... and i may have misunderstood , my bad.. but to those who m find it usefull this mod will help you as well. here is some copied text i found.

I emailed you about the insulator gasket that Cisco said he was using. Let me know if they are available and how much.

L8r

HIGHLIGHTS (added by HondaFan81):

The Bisimoto heatshielding gasket reduces intake maifold temps by over 50 degrees. This allows a denser intake charge mixture and hence more power. It is an excellent upgrade from OE.

Not all of the commercially available gaskets are the same. Many companies use simple and cheap plastic, which melt when exposed to engine heat. You do get what you pay for. We have seen a 7hp gain on the stock F22, and another great advantage of it being reusable. Boosted applications gain even more from this mod due to the heat that the turbocharged engines can generate.

Price is $48 each, and we will always manufacture them. Add $9.33 for shipping within the continental US.

[93twodoorLX]

We are totally cool keele, I suppose Im just like you, I too enjoy a smart discussions. So I guess we can agree that our experiences are at two different ends of the spectrum. As far as dynapak goes, I figure that since Bisi, Blacktrax, Hasport,Chrysler-daimler, Honda, Scion, DC sports, AEM, Hondata there must be some credibility in it. here is a link to Bisi's site speaking the praises of his dynapak 3000

http://bisimoto.com/wst_page8.html

I didnt take offense but as Im sure you can relate, it is undeniably hard to judge the tone of peoples perspectives on the internet. I agree that the bisimoto phenolic intake manifold gasket is an awesome mod. definately noticeable drop in temperature (to the touch) throughtout the entire intake manifold. I dont want to stray all out of the way of this DIY topic. so let just agree that my main point that sparked this whole discussion is that, this DIY is a relative solution to spending $75, and I think we can all agree thats a good thing

-sean

[ikayto]

finally pics of my plenum spacer swap

f22a6 lowers w/ h22 upper plenum




about quarter inch clearance of the neuspeed strut bar

big enough to fit two house keys

[Jon]

in reguards to this question yes i did just run a line from the manifold to the IAB actuator, BUT not just plain and simple, I added a smalled orifice vaccum fitting inline between the manifold inlet and the actuator inlet to allow less vaccum to run to the actuator. therefore it will only open under greater vaccum (about 60% throttle) instead of 30% throttle like it would without the reduction fitting. Thats the best way i can explain how i did it. Note: doing this helped my bottom end under light throttle but still allows for IAB actuation for top end at WOT. It seems to me that doing this allows me to get decent get mileage for put putting and decent, throaty topend aswell.

-sean

Can you confirm that the butterflies are opening, i.e. visually seeing he IAB actuator plunger move when around 2700-3000 RPM with the IAB delete?

Also are you running the stock ECU?

[owequitit]

Set this up on my car with a double stack. Will see how it performs in the near future.

[93twodoorLX]

Can you confirm that the butterflies are opening, i.e. visually seeing he IAB actuator plunger move when around 2700-3000 RPM with the IAB delete?

Also are you running the stock ECU?

It is a noticable difference in tone for sure at or around 3000 RPM. right now im running a PT6 (PT3 was in there stock) because i used to have the IAB box but now i just have it for the more aggressive fuel/ignition map up higher in the RPMs, i might be looking into a p12 for its more agressive fuel/ignition maps across the rpm range but i dunno just yet. also when the car is stationary with the car idling if your jump the revs at the TB (manually with your hand, under the hood) the actuator does react to changes in vaccum but its hard to see what RPM it is from the outside.

-sean

[Jon]

It is a noticable difference in tone for sure at or around 3000 RPM. right now im running a PT6 (PT3 was in there stock) because i used to have the IAB box but now i just have it for the more aggressive fuel/ignition map up higher in the RPMs, i might be looking into a p12 for its more agressive fuel/ignition maps across the rpm range but i dunno just yet. also when the car is stationary with the car idling if your jump the revs at the TB (manually with your hand, under the hood) the actuator does react to changes in vaccum but its hard to see what RPM it is from the outside.

-sean

Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can't confirm if and when the butterflies open up with the IAB delete.

[Straight Success]

I've read in this post, just need another definate confirmation. When using the H22 VTEC and adding a "spacer", should I keep the butterflies in the upper part, or should I delete them?

I know to delete them from the spacer, but what about the ones that's onn the TB already?

[Straight Success]

I've read in this post, just need another definate confirmation. When using the H22 VTEC and adding a "spacer", should I keep the butterflies in the upper part, or should I delete them?

I know to delete them from the spacer, but what about the ones that's onn the TB already?

Bump for confirmation.

[PR CB7]

ive confimerd that in an h22 after 7k the butterflies become a restriction, funny thing is this uprgrade works best on non vtec engines
f22a, and f22b show a difference in the torque curve more throatty sound and little more hp

on the h22 feels like after 7 doesnt want to go anywere, dont get me wrong the sound is awsome, and the vtec crossover kicks ass, but i felt in the zone between 5000-7000 after that point it felt useless to take the car up to 8,

felt like trying to rev a s2000 to 10k

i did removed them both spacers, felt a more happy rpm needle, vtec dont feel as hard but it does get to 7800 with no problem at all, i mean my car was tuned with the double spacers, now that i removed them, i would like to see what happens

keycb7 has them removed from his caR and he told me he went from 90mph to 94 mph in the 1/4 mile, he was the reason i wanted to try this

[*JDM_CB7*]

ive confimerd that in an h22 after 7k the butterflies become a restriction, funny thing is this uprgrade works best on non vtec engines
f22a, and f22b show a difference in the torque curve more throatty sound and little more hp

on the h22 feels like after 7 doesnt want to go anywere, dont get me wrong the sound is awsome, and the vtec crossover kicks ass, but i felt in the zone between 5000-7000 after that point it felt useless to take the car up to 8,

felt like trying to rev a s2000 to 10k

i did removed them both spacers, felt a more happy rpm needle, vtec dont feel as hard but it does get to 7800 with no problem at all, i mean my car was tuned with the double spacers, now that i removed them, i would like to see what happens

keycb7 has them removed from his caR and he told me he went from 90mph to 94 mph in the 1/4 mile, he was the reason i wanted to try this

well on an H I could def see why because you still have the butterflies in there but what about taking them out all togeather yuh kno?? I have double spacers on my f20a an lemme tell you it was a dif low end and top end but then agian I dont have any butterflies yuh kno... I know that with the spacer you have more volume and longer runners which in turn give you more power so if I were you I would just put them back on but without any butterflies... lemme kno wat you think.. l88rr

crazy jay

[Straight Success]

Well, whenever I obtain my H, I will try it with and without the butterflies to see how it feels.

[PR CB7]

i didnt just delete the butteflies

my setup is plenum and runners, no spacers

[H22A91CB7]

can this mod be done with a f22a1 and a f22a1 spacer???