timing belt have jumped some teeth

[nowkear]

hi everyone,

bad luck this week end, on friday night my timing belt have jumped some teeth when im droving back to home, some backfire and missfire, and after nothing. i have called a towing to bring it back home, now im in process to change my timing belt.. i dont know if my valves are ok. what do you guys think? the valves should be ok or it should be bad? when thats hapenned i was driving at like 30-35mph. i hope thats doesnt hurt nothing.. i will see...

[93cbh23]

reset timing with new belt and get a new tensioner if its still using the auto tensioner, if it's manual make sure it's not loose and still in working order with no front to back play if so replace then do leak down check on each cylilnder if no shop air or leak down guages rotate crank and feel for stoppage. if ok on several rotations do active compression test by cranking over 3 rotations with starter on each cylinder.

[93cbh23]

you can also remove valve cover since it has to come off anyway and position cam to that each cylinder one by one is having all four valves closed and use shop air down the plug hole and listen at exhaust and TB for air leaks if leaking may have bent one. check all cylinders you can use the adapter that comes in most universal comp tester kits to thread into plug hole or use a "blow gun" with a rubber stopper or nipple to seal plug tube to blow the air only use around 90 psi for the testing

[nowkear]

back from 8h of work on my accord, i have replaced the timing belt by a brand new one, crank at tdc on no.1 , and valve for cylindre 1 between intake open and exhaust open position. i have also check the timing mark on the balancer pulley.

now the car run, but very jerky. i have also discovered that my needle in the dristibutor was loose and have commenced to scracth in the cap. i have remplaced the distributor since i have one sitting in my locker.

i have rechecked my timing between crank and cam with the open on the engine that let see the flywheel, when the white mark are in the "y" the no.1 valve are between intake and exhaust and the needle in distributor point wire no.1

as far as i know i think my job is done correctly but now my engine really run like no power at all from 1k to 2.5k rpm and after it, it have a little boost but no real power.

i know i will have to check my timing with a timing light, and to add at my journey, 2 bolt of the valve cover have broken, letting oil spill everywhere.... damn day!

[Granite CB7]

I had the same problem earlier this year, and fixed it over the summer. My tensioner became loose, and the cam retarded itself 2 full teeth. It would backfire, and was really loud and weak @ full throttle. Basically had to reset the cam and all was well again, hope the same goes for you too

[nowkear]

my car if fixed!

i have redone all the job for the timing belt, but this time with someone with more exp in that and in a garage with appropriate equipement. we have found that my timing was off for 1 or 2 teeth. now my engine seems to run pretty well, im goin to school at 60km from home, hope it will be ok! thanks for the info guys

[HondaFan81]

Great, consider yourself lucky that it runs right still. You could have lost compression in some cylinders from bent valves. I had this same thing happen to a friend, only he did the timing belt job by the book, but must have had a milled head he did not know about on the car or a messed up cam gear that threw everything the manual said out the window. I had to fix it using my experience and knowledge of these motors. In the end, TDC on the crank lined up at the cam gear not as it should, but diagonally for him to have proper ignition timing.

[nowkear]

i think my engine is not at full health... its like a got less power when im accelerating.. i will have to do a compression test this weekend...