Whenever I go over a bump of any kind, the front passenger wheel well makes a knocking noise as if something metal is loose. I've checked the radius rod and the sway bar links,both are fine. I looked at the strut tower mount bolts, all tight. I don't think i have a blown shick, but thats kinda what it sounds like.....any ideas???? Its starting to worry me
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loud suspension(?) knocking!
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did you replace the springs/struts and if so did you put all the rubber bushings back the upper part of the tower there should be one big rubber bushing on the strut before you put it back in the tower and one on top (under the hood) when u put it in. also there is to metal disks that go with the rubber bushings.
BB6 2001 Prelude SH
Originally posted by Makaveli2kDon't be a sissy. Pull out, spit on the tip like they do in the porno's and get back in there.
=p
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check your balljoints, if you upgraded your suspension its always wise to replace your upper and lower balljoints, with such a crucial part of your suspension its not a good thing to cheap out on that part. if you have the cash look into some adjustable balljoints from ingalls or somewhere.Originally posted by jboycei f'd this girl last night i hadnt seen in a while...used to be cute, but when i had her naked lying on my bed i noticed she had gained alot of weight and looked like a manatee rolling around on my bed.
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the suspension is koni yellows, put them in last summer. THe bushings/metal disk is there. The upper ball control arms are brand new, and ingals ajustable. I bought lower bj's a long time ago, but i haven't gotten around to puttin them in yet. Do u think thats what the noise is....best guess?
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if you can, lift your front end up, just one side at a time and try and shake the wheel back and forth holding at the 12 and 6 o clock positions and then again at the 3 and 9 oclock positions. If it is pretty loose then you might have a ball joint issue.
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knocking could be ball joint issuesDEVOTE
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"It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow."-The Smartest Man In The World
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how about your steering tie rods? Check those, they have been known to fail at the worst times.
My left outer steering tie rod came apart right before I went on the highway.o_ODEVOTE
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FS: Lokuputha's Stuff
"It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow."-The Smartest Man In The World
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Ok..
lets clear this spaghetti up...
knocking noise going over bump.
A) upper control arms ( bushing around the balljoint is done )
B) Ball joint in upper control arm is bad
C) swaybar bushings are cracked and its knocking when going over bump
D) Lower ball joint bushing is done..
E) spring/shock plate bushings are bad ( metal and metal knocking )
DOUBLE check whatever you HAVEN'T REPLACED!
IMO...Id replace the upper control arm/balljoint assembly ( both sides ) ..and lower balljoints ....double check your INNER tierods as well.
NOTE: when you hear that knocking noise...its either or ( upper control arm balljoint is bad..whichever side you hear it on...OR..the swaybar bushings are bad. )
BEING you have replaced the swaybar bushings...its more than likely...( upper control arm balljoint assembly )
keep us posted on your progress!92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!
MR Thread:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489
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all righty, im gonna get a pry bar and check the ball joints this weekend. The lowers are OEM and the uppers were replaced two yrs ago (whole arm, but it was ebay so ). I don't think its the sway bar bushings or the tie rods tho. Dam i didn't want to do the ball joints Thanks for the help guys
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Originally posted by SN2BH22CB7Ok..
lets clear this spaghetti up...
knocking noise going over bump.
A) upper control arms ( bushing around the balljoint is done )
B) Ball joint in upper control arm is bad
C) swaybar bushings are cracked and its knocking when going over bump
D) Lower ball joint bushing is done..
E) spring/shock plate bushings are bad ( metal and metal knocking )
DOUBLE check whatever you HAVEN'T REPLACED!
IMO...Id replace the upper control arm/balljoint assembly ( both sides ) ..and lower balljoints ....double check your INNER tierods as well.
NOTE: when you hear that knocking noise...its either or ( upper control arm balljoint is bad..whichever side you hear it on...OR..the swaybar bushings are bad. )
BEING you have replaced the swaybar bushings...its more than likely...( upper control arm balljoint assembly )
keep us posted on your progress!
you need to also check the ingalls camber kits they sometimes come loose or strip due to an inexperienced person wrenchin the piss out of them. tie rods won't knock on a bump. the ball joints can be checked easily by raising the front end both or one wheel at a time about two inches off the ground(2in of clearance between bottom of tire and ground) and sliding a long pry bar under it and lifting up while you inspect and watch the upper and lower ball joints for play. the 12 and 6 oclock wiggle test will be a hub or real bad ball joint the 9 and 6 would be tie rods or rack. the things you have replaced need to be checked to make sure they were re installed correctly or if you didn't replace the mounts and re used them they could also be the problem or part of it. you don't have the force required to really lift and compress the suspension system to see if these components are working right.My other ride is your ex-wife
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Originally posted by 93cbh22i agree good job attempting to clean up that cluster fuck.
you need to also check the ingalls camber kits they sometimes come loose or strip due to an inexperienced person wrenchin the piss out of them. tie rods won't knock on a bump. the ball joints can be checked easily by raising the front end both or one wheel at a time about two inches off the ground(2in of clearance between bottom of tire and ground) and sliding a long pry bar under it and lifting up while you inspect and watch the upper and lower ball joints for play. the 12 and 6 oclock wiggle test will be a hub or real bad ball joint the 9 and 6 would be tie rods or rack. the things you have replaced need to be checked to make sure they were re installed correctly or if you didn't replace the mounts and re used them they could also be the problem or part of it. you don't have the force required to really lift and compress the suspension system to see if these components are working right.92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!
MR Thread:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489
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