H22 not running smooth

[slammed4th gen]

To start off I have a 93 accord with a h22 in it and the motor has been hiccupping alot. By that I mean that it bounces while driving like in a jerky misfiring way. I've had electrical problems before and replaced my ELD sytem. My car got filled with water a year ago due to flooding, and the only thing that stopped working after that was the speedo. The car was wired for an external ignitor, but my h22 came with internal so i converted. Does this sound like a dizzy problem? I replaced the cap and rotor, but that does not seem to help. I have also replaced the fuel filter and have been running 93 octane namebrand gas. Also when driving the motor seems to be retarding the timing and the car seems to lag. It is not throwing any codes and I do not think that it is the knock sensor, but it could be. At idel sometimes after I drive it it drops down and sputters and almsot dies, but it doesn't. If anyone have give me some insight i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

[d112crzy]

Egr.

[H23CB7]

mine does the same thing sometimes. But when i go p28 i will get a block off plate

[d112crzy]

you shouldn't need to do anything when you go p28, if it's your EGR.

the p28 doesn't look for it.

[SN2BH22CB7]

seafoam....

try cleaning out the intake first!

use 1/3rd of the bottle into the brake booster line. ( after if studders off )...put back on the line..and let it marinate for 15-20 minutes...then start it..it will studder..but give a rev...and let the smoke show begin. you have to give it here and there WOTs ...drive it around 270 or something Jake ..to clear out all the left over seafoam/carbon.

use a WHOLE bottle on a full tank ( when you fill up...dump a whole bottle into the tank ..before you leave the gas station )

thats what I do every oil change and tune up..

seafoam my fuel system!

after I do my oil change...and set my timing OR check it...I fill up..and dump a whole bottle into the tank.

I seafoam the intake as well with EVERY OTHER oil change!

keeps the intake clean

[H23CB7]

you shouldn't need to do anything when you go p28, if it's your EGR.

the p28 doesn't look for it.

i know it doesn't but i just don't want it in there when i put in the new ecu

[slammed4th gen]

Seafoam

The seafoamed worked and now she is all peppy again. Hopefully it will last. Thanks for the help. I have used seafoam before on that motor like a couple years ago, so that was why it wasn't the first thing i was going to do, but it surprised me.

[slammed4th gen]

wondering speedo

Well the problem is not fixed. My speedometer tends to jump around whenever I hit the brakes and idling. I checked the voltage at the vss and it was incorrect. Whenever I drive it around, the engine is really jerky and not smooth revving. The car did get filled with water but everything dried out. I've checked most of the grounds and they all seem to be fine. Maybe something happened with the ecu? Any input would be great! Also I find it strange that the speedo bounces when I push the brakes. I used to have a viper alarm and remote start and know that the tach and brake wires were hooked up to it, but i removed the alarm to try to fix it. No luck.

[ceelooboob]

is the tach jumping(rpm's jumping around) could be the dizzy going bad if the tach is jumping.

[slammed4th gen]

naw, the tach works just fine. I had that problem when the accord had an f22 in it. i had a different electrical problem a couple years ago and now im beginning to think that there is more.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=16437

[slammed4th gen]

anyone?

[SN2BH22CB7]

The seafoamed worked and now she is all peppy again. Hopefully it will last. Thanks for the help. I have used seafoam before on that motor like a couple years ago, so that was why it wasn't the first thing i was going to do, but it surprised me.

glad to of helped

[SN2BH22CB7]

Well the problem is not fixed. My speedometer tends to jump around whenever I hit the brakes and idling. I checked the voltage at the vss and it was incorrect. Whenever I drive it around, the engine is really jerky and not smooth revving. The car did get filled with water but everything dried out. I've checked most of the grounds and they all seem to be fine. Maybe something happened with the ecu? Any input would be great! Also I find it strange that the speedo bounces when I push the brakes. I used to have a viper alarm and remote start and know that the tach and brake wires were hooked up to it, but i removed the alarm to try to fix it. No luck.

Hmm, try replacing the ignition switch ...MFR AND ECU.

and check the fuses as well.

but the jumpy speedo and jerky ride....that certainly sounds like ignition issues ( distributor....ignitor...corroded ignition delivery points "cap" ...ignition switch )

OR...fuel issues....( like I stated before...MFR )...could be your MFR is losing contact through the switches..and recontacting...resulting in the jerky feel.

these are the parts you should be looking into:

* Distributor ( the entire thing...check it= IGNITOR/CAP-ROTOR CONTACTS )
* Main Fuel Relay ( take it out and check the points for cracks in the solder )
* Check for Saturation around the ECU wiring and plug inlets ( from water going into the ECU..could send electrical surge from one point or transistor to another point that didn't need it " water conducts electricity well " so it might of messed up something. )
* Ignition Switch ( the points inside of that switch COULD be burnt or worn out..causing that jumpy speedometer..trust me..I had a very similar problem a few years back ..and that was MY problem )

^ I hope you figure out whats wrong with your CB...get it up and running!

keep us posted!

[slammed4th gen]

ok well i have replaced the main relay a little while ago so I dont think its that. I checked the ignition switch and it is fine as well.
I went to crank my car but it wouldn't crank. The battery was at 9v. I removed the positive cable and the battery rose to 10.8v, so I figure something was draining the battery. I disconnected the ecu and connected the positve terminal to the battery and the battery goes to 10.5v, so I'm not sure how much the ecu uses when the car is off but I do not think it is that much.

Anyways because the car got flooded a couple years ago I inspected the ecu and found dirt on some contacts and also some contacts looked liked they got fried burned or something. I cleaned it all up and it looks fine again.
As of a year ago the car has no longer been my daily driver. When the battery is fully charged the car starts and runs ok minus the jumping tach and slight bucks from the motor. But in the past the car could go a couple days without being driven and able to start, But around january that stopped. A couple days ago it would start and when I connected it to a battery charger, it started but the charger said the battery was charged as soon as I connected it. The battery was fully charged and disconnected and is slowly losing volts ( 11.98 as of a little while ago about 3 hours after being fully charged)

With all these problems, I almost feel that it is better to just start all over again with the wiring or something.
Thanks for the help so far guys!

[trickedaccord92]

speedo problem is likely your VSS going bad like mine ... also VSS will disable your vtec after a little driving ... the hiccupping problem sounds like your TPS ... are you throwing any codes? code 7 is TPS and code 17 is VSS if you are throwing those 2 check and get back to us ... if your VSS is good check the back of your gauge cluster for loose wires going to speedo or get the wiring diagram and trace that wire it will prolly be grounded out somewhere