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Anyone run 5w20 oil?

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    #1

    Anyone run 5w20 oil?

    My wife's Mazda MPV required 5w-20 oil so I have been using Mobile 1 since I started doing the changes at home 25k miles ago. My understanding is that several manufacturers started using the 5w-20 in order to get slight increase in fuel economy for the CAFE standards. I normally run 5w30 Mobile 1 in my 93 EX but to try to simply things I decided to try the 5s-20 in the Honda for this change. (the Mazda takes 6 quarts and the Honda takes 4 - so 2 5 quart jugs to do both vehicles.) I go at least 6,000 miles between changes without any trouble and the oil still looks great in both vehicles when I change it.

    Is anyone else running 5w-20 Mobile 1 in their CB7?
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    #2
    Originally posted by ACCLUDE91
    the rating of oil is just the thickness. Plain and simple.

    0 weight is thinner than 50 weight.

    The thinner it is, the more capable the oil is of reaching the small hard to reach areas of the motor like berrings. It flows a little quicker because of how thin it is too.

    The W in oil ratings stands for winter. So a 5W30 oil is 5 weight durring winter and 30 weight durring the summer.

    Honda recommends 5W30 for their own protection since their cars are sold all over the country (and all over the world). They want the 5 weight to encourage oil flow even durring the worst of winter conditions and then 30 weight to encourage proper flow durring the hot summer months. But this a generalization. If you live in FL, you're probably fine running a straight SAE 5 weight all year round. If you live in Maine or Canada, then you can run either a combo oil like the 5W30/10W30 or just run straight 5 weight durring winter and straight 30 or 40 weight durring summer.

    You are perfectly fine using an even thinner oil than what's recommended. Yes there is such thing as 0 weight oil and it has the exceptional lubricating and flow characteristics. It is mainly used in some of the newest motors with high compression and zero tolerance (valves come extremely close to the pistons durring each stroke). You are perfectly fine using a 0 weight oil in your motor and it may even make it run better.

    I was working on a Honda the other day and it had some valve clicking even after a valve adjustment. I tried a few different kinds of oils and the only one that made it quiet down was Mobil1 0 weight. Honda recommeded 10W30 and I tried that, then just 30 weight, 10 weight, 5 weight, 5W30, and finally 0 weight. The thinner the oil I used, the quiter it got until finally the 0 weight made the clicking go away entirely.

    Use the appropriate oil based on how your engine is running, NOT what the mfg. recommends. They tell you to use what's gonna save their ass from lawsuits, not what's best for your individual motor.

    Also, you are fine switching from synthetic to non-synthetic or syntheic blends. It will not do any damage to your motor.

    Another thing to add since I'm ranting and raving about oil.....Do not use any oil additives. With the exception of a few products like the seafoam mentioned above, oil additives are a waste of time and may even do damage to your motor. Additives used to be a good thing when motor oils were still very crude and unrefined. Oils today are much more refined, perfected, and ALREADY HAVE ADDITIVES IN THEM so there is no need for any additional additives, Especially if you are using synthetic. If you feel the need to use an additive, try changing oil grades/brands first till you find which one makes your motor run the smoothest.

    A little more info than you needed, but that post has always been very useful to me! 20 weight should be fine. The only thing with thinner oil is that if you have a leak (internal or external) the thinner oil is more likely to find it. Keep an eye on your levels.






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      #3
      Thinner weight oils will also reduce oil pressure. Keep your eye on your pressure gauge.
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        #4
        Why would they reduce pressure? I wouldn't think that would happen unless you were leaking.






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          #5
          I thought 5W20 was the standard for some of the newer Honda models.
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            #6
            Originally posted by deevergote
            Why would they reduce pressure? I wouldn't think that would happen unless you were leaking.
            it's slightly more spread out through the engine, but shouldn't reduce pressure noticeably. you can always add an extra half quart if you are worried about that happening.

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              #7
              Originally posted by deevergote
              A little more info than you needed, but that post has always been very useful to me!
              There's also more that a few shocking inaccuracies, esp. pertaining to viscosity ratings.
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                #8
                Originally posted by SteveB
                There's also more that a few shocking inaccuracies, esp. pertaining to viscosity ratings.
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                  #9
                  Ive just always ran either 10w30 or 5w30. Id like to move synthetic since im getting high miles, but im unsure of that switch yet....


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                    #10
                    Originally posted by greencb7inkc
                    Ive just always ran either 10w30 or 5w30. Id like to move synthetic since im getting high miles, but im unsure of that switch yet....

                    i think my f22a has 2 or 3 different weights in it right now. maybe some water and dirt too.

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                      #11
                      My H22 has whatever I've been putting in it. Needs a change, but I haven't gotten around to it. I'm working on building another one, and nothing will light a fire under my ass like a blown motor! (not really looking to blow it up... but I really do need to take better care of the one that's assembled and running...)






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                        #12
                        Originally posted by fizzbob7
                        i think my f22a has 2 or 3 different weights in it right now. maybe some water and dirt too.
                        How about that taurus you had lol.

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                          #13
                          Some of the newer Honda's must use the 5w-20 since it says recommended for Ford, Honda and XXXX (something else that I can't remember) right on the bottle. I have been running the sythetic since I got the car at 180k - it now has 189k. I had a pretty bad leak - but I think I have tracked it down as being an internal distributor seal so I have the new seal ready to go and will put it all back together tonight.

                          Living in MN it gets pretty cold in the winter and if you have every compared the viscousity of dino vs. synthetic oil in the cold you will be sold. When I was in college I went to change the oil on my GMC Jimmy when it was -30 degrees F and I couldn't even pour the dino oil until I brought it inside for several hours. I got some Mobile 1 for Christmas (weird I know) and was turned into an instant believer.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Camurai
                            Thinner weight oils will also reduce oil pressure. Keep your eye on your pressure gauge.
                            This man is correct. iwas constantly running 20w-50 in one of my cars, and one oil change i decided to do the norm and go the 5w-20 or 10w-20 ( i dunno something considerably thinner), and towards the end of my oil change my oil light came on for the 1st time ever.

                            I wouldnt recomment running thick oil in the winter though. for me i went down to 10w-30 in the colder months. by colder i mean >45F

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by NAiL05
                              How about that taurus you had lol.
                              i shot the engine with a 12 gauge before i scrapped it. it had black oil or what is commonly referred to as texas tea.

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